Early days

Significant walks and scrambles are completed leading to high-level traverses such as An Teallach and Ring of Steall in winter.

Donned my mum’s washing line, nicked dad’s Stanley claw hammer and made winter ascents of narrow buttresses on Caerketon Hill in the Pentlands.

The death defying years

74 – visit Meadowbank indoor wall. First rock climb at Aberdour – Fishhead Arete (V Diff), then soloed a VS. May Bank holiday – switch leads on The Reach, Swastika and Ba’s in a day. Saw Ian Nicolson solo Pause – wow! In the months that followed, numerous near terminal head first lobs are executed with style and panache. Remarkably I survived those early days unscathed, though I sometimes wonder! Lead grade III on my debut winter – North West Gully Direct in the Coe. Crowberry in poor nick was an invaluable learning experience.

75 – Sacrifice O Level biology prelim for Gallows, Trapeze, Guerdon Grooves and the likes of Dedication and Tophet Grooves in the Lakes. Struggled on most, especially Gallows. Introduced chalk to Scottish climbing – gulp! Modelled myself on Cunningham, Smith and Haston, and rising English stars, Livesey and Fawcett.

76 – Things are looking up! Bouldered constructively at Meadowbank and Northumberland with huge increase in strength and ability. Orion Direct completed comfortably. Rigor Mortis, The Niche and Vector are a breeze. Enter into the realms of hard XS with Paladin, and “Livesey Harder Still” (see Lakeland commentary, Mountain magazine) with Fine Time. These Lakes climbs would become influential. Started doing first ascents such as Rat Catcher, Freakout, Run Free and Ticket to Ride. Left school and worked as a ski mechanic in Edinburgh. Survived my first season in the Alps – just! Haston’s In High Places, This Seventh Grade by Messner, and Conquistadors of the Useless by Lionel Thierry leave an impression.

The Golden Years

77 - An incredible year and a climbing partnership with Murray Hamilton - some good routes include Titan’s Wall, Giant, Cougar and The Clearances. First ascents of Solitude and Bannockburn. Early, second, and first free ascents and first free ascents such as, Creation, Eclipse, R’N Special, Dry Gasp and Eastern Hammer in the Lakes, Great Wall, Cream, Camel in Wales.

78 – Move to Newtonmore and work to finance trip to America. Yosemite pilgrimage – climbed 5.11+, The Nose and Washington Column. Note Americans are big into bouldering. More first ascents in Scotland such as Caligula, and Morbideza. Guiding in the Alps for Mal Duff and Pinnacle Adventure Holidays, that’s “adventure” with a capital A! American Direct Intregal and Super Couloir on days off. Back home did Verdict in the Lakes and second ascents of Zooma, Marmolada Arete and a third ascent of Evil Eye in the South West. Start new job at Nevisport in Glasgow.

79 – Feeling insecure about my uneducated commitment to climbing, it lacked focus and a sense of direction but that was about to change. Fifth on-sight ascent of Right Wall on The Cromlech and other respectable routes, however the first ascent of Wild Country on the Cobbler was the highlight of that decade. This climb was in a different league, I knew I had achieved something special. First ascent of the much prized, Elliots Downfall. No big deal really although others seemed to think so. Gave it grade VI, which seemed to upset the winter egoists.

Forward to the 1980's

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