Lochnagar
Es Tresidder points out that he and Vivian Scott climbed the actual right arete of the Where Eagles Dare wall. Es described the conditions low down in the coire as very poor (Dec 18th) so they abed in from the top. The route which is named State of Independence is graded about VII,8 and highly recommended as an early season target.

Also omitted was an ascent of Central Buttress by Ian Parnell and Andy Benson. They utilised the logical (and independent from Central Grooves), Starting Blocks start (VII,8 climbed by Garthwaite and Anderson) and its is more than likely to be a second ascent. Parnell described the initial moves as both committing and “pretty butch”. Unicorn also received an ascent that day by Andy Turner and Dave Hollinger but its uncertain whether or not they climbed the top pitch. Vivian Scott reports an ascent of Para Andy, but instead of traversing out left to the slab he climbed straight through the blocking roof and continuation groove. This became too narrow forcing a swing right round a flake to join the final groove on Intruder. Vivian describes the variant as a butch VI,7 above creaky gear! Intruder itself received numerous ascents. Parnell and Andy Benson also accounted for an ascent of Para Andy.

Arrochar
On Beinn an Lochain, Stuart MacFarlane and Davie Crawford climbed Edge of Darkness (IV,6 on 22nd Jan). Stuart described the route as quite nippy crux though well protected, pulling out right onto the sloping ledge.

And some amendments to the rock report:

Cairngorms
Jules’ new line Rooibos at Coire Sputan Dearg should have been graded E5 6a (not 6b). Origin of the Species received its 3rd and 4th ascents by Rick Campbell and Guy Robertson, though as far as I’m aware Julian Lines has made the only ‘flawless’ ascent to date!
Skye
Jule’s new line Diura should read Diuru (a combo of Dilemma and Uhuru)
Reiff
Mike Reed points out that he was more than likely responsible for the 2rd ascent of Cullach (2001). He thought E5 and pretty sustained with spaced gear, but where you needed it. He added that it was the same time he led Minjeatah (E6) which he describes as an awesome climb and awaiting its second ascent.

…..and now back to winter 2007

NORTH WEST
Sgurr Nan Clach Geala
On the 21st January Pete Benson and Guy Robertson climbed Skyscraper Direct (240m, VI,7), a five pitch version following the true crest all the way with some strenuous and exposed climbing. Guy commented that it was a fantastic route, marred only by the fact it could have been harder!

Beinn Lair
On Feb 10th, two teams comprising Nisbet and Mark Edwards and Dave McGimpsey and D Bell endured the long approach to tick one of the most sought after classic lines in the Northern Highlands with Marathon Ridge, III,4. There are two starts – one via the toe of the buttress left of the summer route (IV,3); while the second start begins higher up on the left and traversed in. Thereafter the summer route was followed via its tricky chimney, the thin fissure on the crest being the highlight. Nisbet compares the climb in both length and quality to Tower Ridge on the Ben, though slightly easier.

Simon Richardson and Ian Small also took advantage of the snowy conditions and climbed a new route – no details as yet but will keep you posted!

Beinn Dearg
Olly Metheral and James Edwards have added two new routes in this area but no details as yet.

An Teallach – Toll An Lochain, Sail Liath
Mark Edwards and Nisbet climbed the face of the left buttress, left of Opposition Couloir to give The Upper Hand (200m, VI,6 on 11th Feb) – a five pitch route that involved some bold climbing with a well-protected crux.

And no details as yet but Vivian Scott is also reported to have climbed a new route in this area.

Beinn Bhan – Coire Nan Fhamhar
On the 9th Feb, Ian Parnell and Robertson attempted a Directissima to the right of Die Reisenwand. A hard first pitch required much screaming on Parnell’s part as he pushed the boat out, precariously hooking a verglassed blank wall. Luckily a cluster of crucial runners permitted completion of the hard VIII,8 climbing (a normally conservative Robertson reckoned technical 9!). A pitch VI followed to a junction with D.R. above which an attempt to climb directly up the wall frizzled out after about 30 feet. In the end the pair had to settle for a direct start to DR, which combined gave 400m of climbing.

Glen Shiel – Sgur An Lochain, East Face
Once Bitten, Twice Shy (130m, VI,6 18th Jan) is a three pitch route climbed by Martin Moran and Nisbet and follows a harder right-hand line up the buttress left of Flying Gully.

Ian Parnel and Martin Moran added Beast and the Beast (VIII,8), thus completing an unfinished line that was previously attempted by Moran. Parnell remarked that despite the venues diminutive appearance, the routes feel much bigger than you’d expect and certainly pack a punch as Parnell soon discovered! Ian led both pitches taking a fall on each. The first sported a pumpy off-width (large cams), while the second pitch provided an equally pumpy, turfy corner.

Ben Wyvis – Coire Na Feola
On the 8th Feb, Proletariat provided Mark Edwards, McGimpsey and Nisbet with a six pitch mixed line based on the central icefall left of Laird of the Rings (which rarely forms).

CAIRNGORMS
Coire an t’Sneachda – Fiachaill Buttress
On Jan 19th, John Lyall and Nisbet climbed a counter diagonal to Trampled Underfoot with Rampling, 75m, IV,4. Lyall and Ettle returned on the 17th Feb to add a very good filler in climbing directly through Rampling at V1,6.

LAIRGH GHRU – Lurchers Crag
Nisbet, climbing on his own has added a couple of new grade II’s at the north end of the crag. Collies Ridge (120m, II 8th Jan) takes the ridge which forms the right side of the amphitheatre. And on the 14th Jan, Drystane Ridge (100m, II) is the ridge forming the left side of the amphitheatre – pleasant but slightly artificial with a crux at mid height.

SRON NA LAIRIGE
Nisbet, Lyall, McGimpsey and Davie Crawford climbed the Lairig Rib (200m, II on 10th Jan), which follows the rib overlooking Lairig Gully throughout and is said to be both excellent and exposed in its upper reaches.

pic: Dave McGimpsey soloing a grade II/III at Sron na Lairige

BRAERIACH – Garbh Choire Dhaidh
On the 13th Feb, John Lyall and Graeme Ettle made the long five hour approach into this remote choire. Although the big thaw was already making its presence felt, the pair selected what they thought to be the most wintry line on offer. They were more than rewarded with their choice of line which followed a series of fine and well protected corners between Koala (VI,6) and Kangaroo (V,6). Unnamed as yet the route, which Ettle describes as a classic, is V,6 and 130m long.

AONACH MOR – Coire an Lochain, North East Face
Nisebt and McGimpsey have climbed three routes in this area, all on the 16th January. South Pole (60m, IV,5) takes an icefall in the centre of the leftmost buttress, left of Sprint Gully. Ribbing Corner (100, IV,4), the steep ice-filled corner just right of a steep gully curving right, right of Ribbon on Edge; while Two Queens (70m IV,5) climbs a steep groove starting five metres left of Three Kings.

Coire an Lochain – Ribbed Walls
Muppet Show (90m II) was added on Feb 3rd, courtesy of Matt Green, Nisbet and Ed Wardle, and takes a line up the centre of the often heavily corniced area right of Parnille. Ten metres of 80 degree snow provided a noteworthy finish (crux).

STOB COIRE AN LAOGH
Edwards, McGimpsey and Nisbet have added a superb new route to this increasingly popular venue. Some Like it Hot (70m, VII,7), was previously attempted by McGimpsey, takes a right-facing corner in the steep wall between Jammy Dodger and Served Chilled. Nisbet compared the route both in quality and difficulty to Central Grooves in Glencoe.

Big news here is the long awaited first winter ascent of Knuckleduster by Blair Fyffe and Steve Ashworth, and thus completing a superb No.3 Gully Buttress trilogy (all three – Sioux Wall, Arthur and Knuckleduster being HVS in summer). Steve had spied this line previously, but intimidated by its steepness on that occasion opted to climb Cornucopia instead. On the day, Steve led the first pitch, a nice sustained groove. Blair then climbed the second pitch, which “thankfully was quite short as it was steep and pumpy”. This pitch starts up a groove but soon traverses right across a wall with a steep pull onto an exposed belay ledge. The summer route then traverses back into the main groove. They climbed a groove on the arête which was harder than it looked and Steve took a runner-ripping fall but was soon back on lead. Their line regained the summer route just below the belay. Blair continues… “the last pitch looked really hard (my heart sank when I saw it). Fortunately a good wide crack hidden in a grove just right of the belay was not too hard (which is fortunate as it was almost dark then)”. This led to No.3 Gully Buttress which they followed to the top. Overall, the route is said to be pretty sustained with one slightly harder section (the second pitch). A grade of VIII,9 (with 2/3 stars) has been suggested and Steve reckons its technically harder than Cornucopia, and is long, sustained (four hard pitches with very little easy climbing) with gear being quite tricky to find. Steve soloed ten or eleven climbs up to grade IV and V’s the previous day, so not a bad effort from them both then!

Now all three in a day would be a good effort!

And last but not least a bit of rock news; Kevin Shields soloed another two new routes at Quad Rocks, Largs in February. End of the line (E2 6a) follows a tenuous line of pinches and smears up the slabby face, starting and finishing as for the Traverse. While Sweepstake (E1 5a) offers a good direct line on sloping holds up the face left of V Groove.

Thats it for now!