Buachaille Etive Mor in mid December, 2006
photo: copyright Cubby Images

Hi folks,

first of all a big apology for neglecting the website. A fairly big hip operation and working away from home are largely to blame – not to mention being computer phobic. We’re now back on track so please bear with us!


Bouldering above the CIC hut, Ben Nevis
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

Looking back over the rock climbing year and given the generally good weather there’s not a great deal to report where the mountains are concerned. This neglect of the higher crags has been much talked about in recent years (a common tale elsewhere in the UK), and to some extent does concern my prickly little mind. The consequences are clear to see, dirty climbs being a most common complaint, Though, I personally feel this is a reflection of a softer, cleaner society! And there’s also a general feeling of quietude in areas where one might have queued to climb in the 70’s and 80’s. Much more worrying is a shift in attitude. A why bother, when you can go to the wall, go bouldering, or take a cheap flight to sun scorched venues abroad approach. Diminishing dirt thresholds aside, my worry is that attitudes without soul or passion will evolve, which may effect climbing in different ways. There have already been attempts to control adventure within the outdoors. The consequences of which could be disastrous. Indiscriminate bolting being just one example. I might have been a cog in a wheel that set this whole thing in motion but at least I care about our heritage. Time will tell. I do feel it’s a shame because it never ceases to amaze me just how good, how utterly unique and how rich an experience, climbing on many of the Scottish mountain crags can be. In a recent conversation with the well-known Lakes activist, Dave Birkett (who incidentally has been visiting the Scottish crags for some years), Dave said that he was completely gob smacked by a recent trip to Creagan Dubh Loch. This was his first visit. He climbed The Ascent of Man (E5) and although it was a little bit dirty, he thought it was brilliant and added that with all the recent developments taking place in the Scottish Highlands there’s nearly always somewhere to go if the weather is unsettled.


Mark Garthwaite disappears into the mists of time on Temple of Doom right-hand variant. Top end E3 6a,5c. Church Door Buttress, Glencoe.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images


Tom Lee enjoying Raeburn's Arete, summer 2006
photo: copyright Cubby Images


Route 1 Direct/Route II combo. (Hard Severe), Ben Nevis
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

Anyway enough ranting for now. Rather than detail every event that’s taken place over the year, this report more or less highlights a selection of the best and most interesting climbs and achievements. As ever, more details of these and other Scottish climbs can be found under the New Climbs section of the Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal (bearing in mind that this year’s crop of summer rock climbs won’t appear until next year). My apologies if I’ve omitted your finest hour.

THE CAIRNGORMS
In typically Pateyesque fashion, Julian Lines has contributed a cluster of new routes on the remote crags of Ben McDui’s Coire Sputan Dearg. Julian couldn’t have found a more remote venue to court some death defying experiences but one has to praise his individualistic sense of adventure; something of a novelty amidst today’s fashion conscious trends! To the left of Sundance there is a green east-facing slab. This provided a triptych of single pitches, all of which were climbed on-sight and described as worthwhile solos! Rooibos (E5 6b) takes a line of blind runnels up the left edge and is said to be bold and absorbing. Echinacea (E4 6a/b) challenges the centre of the slab with some “thin” moves and a bold upper section, while the right-hand line, Ginseng (E4 6c) required “heinous scratching” to reach the sanctuary of a diagonal crease and thus completing an unfinished project from ten years ago. Julian’s unquestionable slab climbing ability would suggest that these climbs come complete with a government health warning! The centre of the lower tier is dominated by an impressive arete which presented something of a dilemma for Jules who was determined to climb the line on-sight. After two previous attempts, he even considered returning in winter when the evil landing would at least be buried under snow. But in the end he resigned to a brief inspection on abseil. Ataraxia (E6 6a/b) was the outcome and described by Jules as bold but technically straight-forward! On Terminal Buttress (appropriately named on this occasion) Romontado (E6 6a) accepts the “stunning” challenge of the blind crack in the wall left of Chute. Climbed on-sight and solo the ascent is described as “ultra serious and only for those with a death wish”. Readers will be pleased to know that Jules has not been sectioned and is alive and well and was last seen enjoying a solitary existence on a North Sea oil rig. On the summit tor of Beinn Mheadhoin Silkworm (E3 5c) follows an obvious quartz seam on the West Face while Classic Crack (HVS 5a) takes the superb and obvious crackline. Both routes were soloed by Julian.

Every now and then a new kid on the block enters into the Scottish climbing arena. While we generally want to be supportive and err on the side of giving benefit of the doubt, Malcolm Kent’s achievements for this year, not just in Scotland but globally, are almost beyond belief. One of his more moderate claims is an ascent of Origin of The Species on the Dubh Loch’s superb Central Gully Wall. This would make the third known ascent, Julian Lines have made the second a few years back.


A very relaxed Julian Lines seen here on the second ascent of Origin of the Species (E6 6a). Creagan Dubh Loch, Cairngorms
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

Shelterstone
Defenders of the Faith – Ian Small and Tess Fyer, have climbed an interesting new line running the full height of The Bastion. The route weaves around The Needle, sourcing some new pitches on the way but savours its best for the final headwall, which climbs thin cracks and the characteristic pink streak right of The Needle. Ian had attempted the line previously but the bold nature of the climbing and dirty rock got the better of him on that occasion. Climbing on-sight Ian returned and armed with an array of small cams, he successfully completed the exposed and intricate top wall to give The Camel (E5 6a).

Brearaich
The unseasonably warm autumn found Andy Nisbet and Jonathan Preston high up on Garbh Choire Dhaidh where they made the first ascent of Wombat (VS). The same team also climbed Koala (an existing VS) which they thought to be excellent.

Coire an t’Sneachda
On the Mess O Potage, Nisbet with Keith Haldane added Crackpot (S), which is said to be a fine route thanks to the cleansing process of numerous winter ascents. On Alladins Buttress, Nisbet and Preston discovered Witchcraft (E2 5b), the result of having inadvertently abseiled the line while descending from Magic Crack. Not untypical for these parts they very narrowly beat Ian Peter and Alan Fyffe who also had designs on the same route!

Coire an Lochaine
Cardiac Arete (HVS) is a worthy addition to Number 1 Buttress. Having spotted the line some years ago, Nisbet remembered that is wasn’t until he received a route description for the new winter climb, Open Heart, that he realized that there was a way round a line of baffling overhangs guarding the exit to the arête.

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS NORTH
Most activity has been in the development of the coastal fringes rather than in the mountains. In the far north at Whiten Head, Ross Jones and Rob Reginski added a companion to the Original Route on Stac Thormaid with Run-Diomhair (HVS 4c). This starts up a chimney to the left of the seaward face and involves some bold climbing. Jones reports that despite the original route remaining unreported, it is a fine stack deserving more ascents given its easy access, situation and climbing. Apparently Mick Tighe and party climbed it in 1993 which is thought to have been the second ascent. Sounds like a must-do for anyone embarking on a Scottish sea stack quest.

At Melvich, Lady Bighouse Rock, Jones this time with Matt Dent climbed a fine 25m precariously perched stack with When the Big Lady Sings (HVS 4c). This starts at a corner on the east face before gaining the landward (south) face to access the top. An abseil followed by a 15m swim is required on the approach. Jones this time alternating company with John Sanders and Dent accounts for a cluster of new routes at Red Point (reference SMC Northern Highlands North guidebook, p345), with grades ranging between VDiff and E1.

Tarbert Sea Cliffs
Steve Kennedy and Bob Hamilton (occasionally joined by Dave McGimpsey and Andy MacDonald) have revisited the gneiss sea cliffs near Scourie. At the Balmy Slabs area – Violator (E1 5b) provides a sustained route on the steep wall left of The Boardmaster (a steep and well protected E2 (from 2005) which is said to be superb. Captain Hook (HVS 4c) – the slab forming the left wall of the deep chimney of Black Tidings. Dolphin Crag – Inshallah (E1 5b) takes a line up the slabs directly below “suicidal downward pointing flake”, stepping gingerly onto it before the finish (attempts to remove the flake on abseil were unsuccessful and is perhaps more solid than was initially thought). Last Train to Somerville (E1 5b) takes the slab mid way between Meal for a Seal and Central Crack, while Sneak Preview (E1 5b) climbs through the jagged overlap left of the former with a thin slab to finish and finally Solitary Man (E1 5b) takes a thin crack through a bulge to slab left of Sneak Preview.


Inshallah (E1 5b), Tarbet sea cliffs
photo: with thanks and copyright to Steve Kennedy


Steve Kennedy on The Boardmaster (E2 5c), Tarbet sea cliffs
photo: with thanks and copyright to Steve Kennedy


Rhue
Having recently entered into the realms of becoming one of the ‘older guard’, Ian Taylor would appear to have rediscovered hard (or should it be harder as Ian is no slouch on the rock), with the advent of head-pointing, and why not! Adopting this approach Ian dispensed with a fine new E6 called Kanga Rhue (E6 6b) and competing with Rab Anderson for the most cringe worthy route names. This takes the wall and crack to the left of Rhue Mania. The latter was climbed with Tess Fryer at E4 6a and follows the steep sculpted wall round to the left of Cats Whisker.

Julian Lines added a little gem of a deep water solo by climbing a direct on Tim Rankin’s, How Now Brown Prow (E2), with spectacular moves through the jutting prow to give Gung Ho at E4 5c/6a.



Julian Lines on the first ascent of Gung Ho (E4 5c/6a) - DWS solo with an autumnal Coigach in the background. Rhue sea cliffs.
photo: copyright Cubby Images


Jules again - cuts loose on Gung Ho, Rhue, NW Highlands. Note: waterproof chalkbag de rigour for dws ascents!
photo: copyright Cubby Images


Ardmair
On Monster Buttress, Ian and Tess dispensed with Soor Plums (E5 6a) which follows the thin crack and technical right arête of Summer Isles City. Another aspiring oldie, Andy Cunningham has also embraced modern trends to complete a long term project left of Big Foot at E5 6a.

Reiff
Stone Pig Cliff
Ian Small and Tess Fyer have added a new line to the left end of this steep wall. Unnamed as yet, the route is E5 6a and over twenty metres long which is pretty big by Reiff standards. The upper wall provides the crux and is described by Ian as a bit “goey” and run-out but safe.

Rockers Cliff
Ina Small and Ian Taylor have repeated two of Gary Latter’s routes here. Cullach and Headlong (both graded E4 in the guidebook but one was supposedly E5). Small remarked that the E4 (which ever one that is) was “pokey and worrying”, while Taylor who climbed the E5 thought it to be good with better protection. Both of these are thought to be second ascents.

In his quest to find a DWS nirvana, Julian Lines has been putting his recently acquired inflatable dingy to good use, exploring the Rubha Coigeach peninsula. The discovery of the Baby Tiapan Wall has yielded over a dozen lines half of which are currently projects. The remainder are in the French 6b to 6c category and should be within the grasp of many, assuming you can cope with the long and rough approach. This superb wall (which has been known about for some time) is 15m high and overhangs by twenty degrees. Aspiring deep water soloists will be pleased to learn that the main difficulties of the routes centre round the lower portion. All the climbs have been nicely documented for Mike Robertson’s forth coming DWS guide to the UK (due out later this year). To provide a flavour, here are a couple of descriptions. Land of Milk and Honey (6b, 30m) - the perfect traverse is tackled with a sequence of jams and stamina. Can be reversed….. amazing. Cyber Pimp, (6c, 15m) – The fine crackline runs out of a shield, forge past this with vigour, take a rest under the roof and a choice of finishes which includes jumping if it tickles your fancy.

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS CENTRAL
Beinn Eighe – Far East Buttress
Body Swerve ( 90m, E4 4c,6a,5b), starts up Body Heat before taking to the wall on the right with some bold climbing and was the work of Ian Taylor and Tess Fryer.

Rubha Reidh
Ross Jones and Matt Dent climbed A’Staca Beag with Silent Wisdom (HVS 5a) – a short route on the arch of the landward face, while the south face of A’Staca Eilean an Air, yielded a 15m Hard Severe 4a requiring a simultaneous abseil for descent.

Caithness




Guy Robertson in action on the first ascent of a new E4 at Sarclet.
photo: copyright Cubby Images



Cleit Mhor and Cleit Beag, Latheron Wheel area, Caithness coast.
photo: with thanks and copyright to Ross Jones

Despite nearing maturity the superb cliffs of Latheronwheel and Mid Clyth continue to yield routes of surprising quality at a reasonable grade (Hard Severe to E2), courtesy of Ross Jones and John Sanders. And as ever locals, Raymond Wallace and Rob Christie have been busy exploring previously untouched stretches of coastline in this area. These two venues together with Occumster and Sarclet offer some of the best low to mid grade one pitch climbs as good as any in Scotland. Each has its own distinct character and style with Latheronwheel being a popular VS venue. For those interested there is also potential for quality, hard new routes in this area. In the Latheronwheel area, Cleit Mor (40m, HVS) is the largest of three stacks and was climbed by Jones via its south face in two pitches of 4c. No evidence was found of a previous ascent though the local farmer had witnessed repeats of Cleit Beag and Cleit Ruadh which were previously climbed by Mick Fowler and party in 1989.


new lines by Ross Jones and party at Mid Clyth
topo: with thanks to Ross Jones



Jo George on the first ascent of Silver Darlings (E1 5b), Sarclet
Photo: copyright Cubby Images


Glen Nevis
On Whale Rock, Dave MacLeod’s super crimpfest, Hold Fast has been repeated by Dave Birkett, though only after side runners were placed in adjacent routes. The grade of E9 7a reflects the more or less protectionless lead required. But on Birkett’s ascent a hold broke and he subsequently fell onto the runners which cushioned his fall, preventing a deck-out. While this is a great effort on Birkett’s behalf, the question of side runners used in outcrop climbing has always been a contentious issue. It will be interesting to know a projected grade that includes the ‘baby bounce’.

Dumbarton Rock
Alan Cassidy reports of a sport-style ascent of Requiem, which brings the known total to six (the second, third, fourth and fifth ascents going to John Dunne, Paul Laughlan, Dave MacLeod and Spider MacKenzie). Alan returned to lead the route placing the gear and is probably the first climber to do so.

Quad Rocks
Kevin Shields has been on a mission here adding another two technical problems with Point Proven (E3 6b) and The Calling (E2 6b). Both of these were worked then soloed.

ISLE OF SKYE




Julian Lines on the first ascent (solo) of Diura, Coire Laggan, Skye
Photo: copyright Cubby Images


The Cullin
On The Bhastair Tooth, Es Tresidder and Blair Fyffe have climbed a logical direct start and finish to Rainbow Warrior to produce a much improved superb pitch at E4 6a. Julian Lines confirms his on-sight solo link-up on the East Buttress of Coire Laggan at E3 5c,5b. The route named Diura is said to offer a combination of the best climbing on the crag.

Marsco – South West Buttress. Bob Hamilton and Steve Kennedy have climbed a fine and well protected prominent crackline to give The Yellow Jersey (E1 5a) – but aren’t all Bob and Steve’s routes E1!

ISLE OF LEWIS
In recent years it would be fair to say that rock climbing on Lewis and Harris has been overshadowed by the Pabbay and Mingulay boom. But for me the former has always been my preferred choice. While there’s no doubting the quality and grandeur of climbing in these islands, the beauty of Lewis and Harris is the combination of both mountain and sea cliff.
When the weather is bad there’s usually somewhere to go, and without the additional Robinson/Crusoe syndrome of being marooned on a small island.

A new Skye and Hebrides guidebook in the pipeline has rekindled a pulse of activity amongst some Lewis aficionados with a number of different groups contributing to the sea cliffs of the west coast. Sadly it would appear that the magnificent Sron Ulladale and for that matter, Creag Dubh Dibadale remain virtually neglected. The Sron is remarkable and undoubtedly one of the UK’s finest crags. An area transformed by Crispin Waddy and friends in the 90’s. Though Crispin climbed many of the best remaining lines, there is still potential for high quality, challenging new routes.

Uig Sea Cliffs
Visitors but no strangers to the Scottish scene, Paul Donnithorne and Emma Alsford have been developing an area north of The Painted Wall called Torasgeo. Half a dozen routes (up to three pitches in length) between HVS and E3 have been climbed. These include a four and three star E1 and a three star E3. An Aberdonian team also got in on the action repeating routes and adding a few of their own. Rob Durren and party repeated Garthwaite and Anderson’s Puffing Crack (E4 6a) confirming its grade and superb quality. Rab and Chris Anderson as usual spent their annual holiday on Lewis and despite mixed weather, still mananged to come away with a respectable quarry of some twenty first ascents. With the new guidebook in the making however, Rab surprise, surprise is reluctant to disclose the whereabouts of his new venues until all the deeds are done. Meanwhile Mick Tighe continues to explore stretches of untouched coastline, some of it apparently of high quality but remains to be as elusive as ever.

Beannan a Deas
Inland from the Uig area on the south side of this hill, Kevin Neil and Adam Van Lon Lopik have discovered a small quick drying venue of quality gneiss. The pair climbed half a dozen lines ranging between VS and E3 with Commitment at E3 5c getting four stars. Though missing out on the discovery of this crag, Rab Anderson was quick in with a second ascent of Commitment (suggesting E2) and adding a couple of routes of his own.



Kevin Neil enjoying quailty gneiss at the new crag of Beannan a Deas , Lewis
photo: with thanks and copyright to Kev Neil


THE BARRA ISLES
Mingulay and Pabbay have potentially received more attention than just about any other crag in Scotland (especially in areas at E2 and above). While the majority of visitors are content to repeat existing climbs, new route activists are on the whole very guarded and secretive regarding their projects. Keeping abreast of new developments therefore is no easy task. Kevin Howett for example accounts for 350 new routes on these islands out of a possible 800 overall. Annoyingly these haven’t been officially written up outwith Kev’s little black book! So don’t be too disappointed if your prized first ascent has already been climbed. But I have my spies Mr Howett. Two fishermen native to Pabbay just happen to enjoy the occasional climbing holiday with guides in the Alps - it’s a small world. But fisherman certainly know these cliff-girt islands. They have to because they drop lobster pots next to them and occasionally they see climbers, such as those noted on the cliffs of Barra itself – all food for thought!




Summertime on Pabbay
photo: copyright Cubby Images


Pabbay
On The Banded Wall (formerly Banded Geo) Gary Latter and Andy Lole have discovered eight or so climbs between VS and E2. The majority of these are located further south beyond a broken sector where a prominent wide ledge situated at half-height divides a fine, smooth lower wall. Of those that stand out, Posture Jedi (E2 5c) and Run Dafti Run are said to be excellent. On the South Face, Carl Pulley and Mike Mortimer added three new routes between HVS and E2, and another by Gary Latter. I’ll refrain from highlighting all the various route names which were inspired by a certain young Edinburgh lady, also on Pabbay on a climbing holiday. Off Wid Emilys Bikini (E2 5b) sets the scene and is obviously a reference to an off width chimney up which the climb finishes!

Mingulay
Guersay Mor – Cobweb Wall
Situated towards the south east end of the Undercut Wall, Latter and Lole unravelled Bikini Dreams (E3 5c,5c,4a). This is a fine addition and follows a line of flakes and grooves via a pegmatite ramp before tackling the upper wall directly.

Sandray
There has been a number of hush hush trips to this island that date back to the late 90’s. The usual suspects of Grahame Little and Kev Howett were at the forefront of those early developments, and a then young up and coming Gordon Lennox. Last year Lennox and Craig Adam added several fine routes to Creag Mhor – a long cliff of some 30m in height and located on the west side of the south west tip of the island. Climbs range between E1 and E6 but this is really a place for those operating at E3 and above. The most outstanding venture by this pair in 2005 is a four star, wildly steep and aptly named route called Orang-utan (E6 5b,6b,5c). But another ten or so routes were added and at least four of these are three star E4’s and 5’s. This year saw two teams comprising Ian Small and Tess Fyer, and Alastair Robertson and Johnny Clark who added several routes to La Louvre. La Louvre is one of three small cliffs known as The Galleries, the others are fittingly named The Burrell and Tate. A feature of the climbing here is their quality which has been described as perfect!

La Louvre
Pointillist (E3 5c) takes the line of a discontinuous crack to the left of First Impressions while Art for Arts Sake (E4 6a) follows a thin crack right of dot to dot. Crazy Horse (E5 6a) – the arete left of Tormented Textures via some highly sculpted rock. Line of Beauty (E4 6a) is a rising traverse starting at the base of Pointillist and climbing via quartz blotch, crossing Tormented Textures and described as gorgeous.

The Burrell
Life Begins…. (E5 6a,6a) is a counter diagonal to Pastiche, starting on a sea level ledge below leftmost black groove and finishing up hanging corner of right edge. The route has been described as a magnificent line with committing hard moves on the first pitch.

A contender for one of the best routes of the season in the Hebrides goes to Steve Crow and Karin Magog’s K&S Special (formerly Firewall) on Creag Dearg Mingulay. The renaming of the climb is a reflection of their shared experiences which started with The Scream (E7 6b) back in 2000. But Steve always had designs on a new line in this area and promised himself that he would return to the foe. After a brief inspection on abseil, Steve found himself powering out some 30m up the line. In a last ditch attempt to keep things clean he started reversing to the sanctuary of the belay but unfortunately failed to make it by one move. Exhausted he handed over the lead to Karin who, climbing on Steve’s beta alone was able to top out. It was a great effort. However there was a nagging formality to address and of course Steve wanted to lead the route placing all the gear. Two days later he did just that and the climb was done. A monster 58m pitch with a 5c mantle to top it all off. The climb is E6 6a and well protected although a bit of scouring to find placements is required. Steve regards the climb as one that he is most proud of.

ORKNEY
Yesnaby

Tim Rankin and Neil Morrison have picked up the pieces from last year and added yet another cluster of high quality climbs to this small but attractive venue. It’s worth noting that not all the climbs in this area are in the upper echelons and grades vary between E1 and E6 with some even easier climbs nearby. The Orkney Session (E5 6b) takes the fine wall between Ebb Tide and Gardyloo Gold and was climbed on-sight with Tim on the lead. Dragonhead (E6 6b) has been described by Tim as stunning and amongst the very best of its type and grade in the country. The climb links cracks in the wall left of Skullsplitter Groove and required a wee bit of practise before it was lead. Lost in the Desert (E1 5b) is the result of a failed attempt on the fine crack in the pillar of One Winters Day, up which this route finishes. Peedi Breeks (E4 6b) is a short but tough excursion with fiddly pro on the wall between Up Tae High Doh and The Cog.

For those of you unfamiliar to this part of Orkney, Yesnaby is home to a very fine sea stack graded E1 (by the normal route), and also features a Fowler creation (E3 6a) which follows a fine crack on the seaward face. This is a lovely stretch of coastline with potential for some interesting new climbs and well worth a visit, either in its own right or in combination with a trip to The Old Man of Hoy or Rora Head.

SHETLAND
Rock climbing in the Shetlands is rapidly becoming a must do alternative to the Barra Isles of Mingulay and Pabbay and is easier to get to (by air at least). There is a good grade spread and the climbs of Esha Ness are considered to be of truly outstanding quality, ranking with the best anywhere in the UK according to Gary Latter. Gary remarked that climbing on Esha Ness and Da Grind o’ Da Navir alone is enough to justify the considerable expense in getting there. There are also numerous outlying islands that offer plenty of alternative sea cliff and stack adventure. The island of Fowla for example with it huge red sandstone walls are as high as any in Britain.


Ross Jones and Pete Sawford enjoying spectacular climbing on superb rock at Esha Ness, Shetland
photo: with thanks and copyright to Ross Jones.

In late May, early June, Ross Jones enjoyed a productive fortnight completing some forty new routes. Of adventurous slant, Ross covered a lot of ground, exploring a variety of different venues. On Saint Ninians Isle and climbing with Simon Calvin, he christened Loose Head Stack with The Cheesegrater (VS 4b). On the Prophecy Wall of the Faither headland he climbed The Oracle with John Sanders. This takes the left arête by some bold initial moves. The Faither Prophecy (E1 5b) is said to be outstanding and follows a slanting line of weakness through hanging roofs up the wall. Ross and friends account for several more routes in the immediate area. The climbs of Lunning Head located at Lunnastin have been described as a venue best reserved for a day when the west coast is subjected to high seas, being short, sheltered and on good quality gneiss. Jones climbing, at times with Peter Sawford and Paul Whitworth, climbed all in all, approx. ten routes ranging in difficulty between V Diff and E1.

On Ronas Voe, Hollinders Crag (low crag in the SMC Journal) is a granite outcrop set back from the sea. As with the majority of crags already described in this area, most of the development is attributed to a small number of both local and visiting climbers. Sanders and Whitworth together with Ross Jones added fourteen routes varying between V Diff and E1.

Ronas Hill Crags. These granite outcrops are located a few miles north of Ronas Hill in the area of Hevdale Water. Currently there are somewhere in the region of forty routes. The climbs are short, up to ten metres and range in difficulty between V Diff and E2, most of which are the work of Paul and Al Whitworth with Sawford and Jones contributing half a dozen routes between Severe and E1.

So there you have it – get yourself up there!

SPORT CLIMBING
In the Gairloch area, Paul Tattersall has been developing a small but pleasant sport climbing venue named Grass Crag. Not the most inspiring name but apparently worthwhile with an all important sunny aspect. Climbs range in difficulty between 5+ and 7a, with the best around 6a-6b+. Creag Nan Luch has proved to be a great success, with the lower tier especially receiving traffic. There are a dozen or so climbs on this sector, up to 20m long and between 6a+ and 7b+. The Upper Tier is a bit more hardcore with several climbs at around 7cish. Work is still in progress here so I’m sure we’ll be hearing more about their development soon. As a winter playground, Am Fasgadh is definitely one to earmark. The Central Wall remains permadry and coupled with a sheltered southerly aspect, climbing just about all year round is possible. The best routes here are between 7a+ and 7c+ though a newly developed sector had yielded a crop of easier routes. These venues are worth bearing in mind when in the north west and are between 45 and 65 minutes drive south of Ullapool. For more information, visit Wild West Topos website.

On a different note, a recent conversation with Paul revealed that he was saddened by the clinical response of some climbers who it would seem have a sweet disregard for the creator of sport climbing venues. I can empathise with Paul. But we have to bare in mind that climbers as a generalisation can be notoriously selfish. I don’t think it’s always in our nature to stop ad spare a thought for the visionary or creative mind responsible for these venues, not too mention the sheer hard work involved. That goes for trad too. And don’t expect a pat on the back either. The only feedback you’re likely to receive is that the bolts are too far apart! So how important is the creator of a venue versus the first ascentionist. Elitist that I am, ground-breaking first ascents obviously deserve recognition. (But then again one person’s 5+ is another person’s 8c). I suspect all that Paul is looking for is a wee thanks and a bit of respect.

Moving on, and this time much closer to the Central Belt, where there is a new venue in the pipeline. Initially paranoia lingered in the air and I was sworn to secrecy but its whereabouts is now out in the open (I hope!). I’ll pass on the heated differences between the two main activists, but the crag is known as Robs Reed and although it’s not quite Ceuse this will be a welcome addition to Scotland’s esoteric sport climbing scene. Scott Muir was the man responsible for the crag’s initial development, and established approx. ten routes before work commitments at Extreme Dream. Neil Shepherd then took over the driver’s seat as its main protagonist. Neil (and others) had visited the crag before but wrote it off. But for some reason Neil changed his mind, adding some twenty new routes. The crag comprises a long barrier type wall, 12-15m high and in the main vertical and gently overhanging. Grades vary between 5+ and 7b+. The rock is sandstone and split by a band of conglomerate in its lower half which makes for some interesting climbing.

In the Arrochar area (Lochgoilhead), The Anvil is receiving positive feedback. But other than a couple of routes graded 6c+ and 7a, this is a hardcore crag. I use the term ‘crag’ loosely but really it’s a huge block of mica schist that appears to have been dropped from outer space. For those of you who haven’t been there before, essentially it is divided into three facets – a short south face of impending quality rock, providing half a dozen routes. Of these Spitfire (solid 8a) and Crossfire (7c+) – both Dave Redpath creations - get rave reviews. The west face features a fine 7a, and is the only reasonably graded climb on the crag. In the angle between the west and north-facing facets, a fine prow yielded what is perhaps the route of the crag with Shadowlands (7b+), courtesy of Mike Tweedley. The undercut sector is reserved for the bionic, being bouldery, power-endurance terrain (and has even inspired Malcolm Smith to take note). The only two routes to date are needless to say, the work of Dave MacLeod, Body Blow (8b+) was climbed earlier last year, while Body Swerve at 8c (climbed in October) is currently Scotland’s hardest offering.


Dave MacLeod on Body Blow (8b+), The Anvil, Arrochar
Photo: copyright Cubby Images


While on the subject of Dave MacLoed I have to say that I’ve enjoyed watching his recent success (and his rise to fame over the preceding decade), and wondered where he would take his climbing next. Is Rhapsody the pinnacle of his career or just the beginning?

Once the high (following a great climb such as Rhapsody) has run its course and the little gnawing rat has had its fill, euphoria is so often replaced by an emptiness or vacuum. A sense of where do I go from here. In Dave’s case he returned to sport climbing (after big plans to climb in the Alps fell through) and who can blame him after the huge physiological strain imposed by a route such as Rhapsody.

I concluded that Dave is quite unique and yet the result, or a product if you like, so endearingly Scottish.

His European counterparts are red-pointing 9a or 9a+ and on-sighting 8b+, and achieving great things in the Alps and Greater Ranges. Are Dave’s achievements in Scotland every bit an equal? His success in Scotland is attributed to an ability that builds upon and draws from a homeland apprenticeship, and modern influences with roots in England and other parts of Europe and America. Achievements that are quite remarkable when we consider how disadvantaged climbers are in Scotland, especially sport climbing resources and a balmy climate. But perhaps that’s precisely why we are so motivated.

Dave’s climbs on the Anvil are certainly impressive and yet in the wider scheme of sport climbing developments elsewhere, one would have to say pretty average. Sport climbing has not been Dave’s greatest strength but he has achieved some huge personal advances in this area. I do believe however, that he has the ability and above all the motivation and tenacity to succeed on 9a and harder. Achieving this level can only further support his greatest attribute which is head-pointing. Finding projects of this calibre close to home is problematic, and Rhapsody in this respect worked very much in Dave’s favour. Trips abroad are an option but they are so often fraught with cost and time implications that prey heavily on the psyche of most climbers attempting a hard route. There are however projects at this level in Scotland and a good starting place for Dave would undoubtedly be Ring of Steall, an open project in Glen Nevis that has recently be labelled a contender for 9a.

So is Rhapsody the pinnacle of Dave’s climbing? I believe this to be a sort of mid way point in his career. If he can succeed on 9a then E12 is not beyond the realms of possibility but ultimately a human being can only endure climbing at this level with all its inherent risks for a very limited period. Good luck Dave!

Tighnabruach
Andromeda (8a+) a MacLeod creation from 2004 received its second ascent from an on-form Alan Cassidy, who also went on to make a rapid ascent of Shield of Perseus (formerly 8a but now 7c+ by general consensus). This received another ascent by Robin Sutton who flashed the route. MacLeod reinforced his dominance with the crags hardest yet – Apollo (8a+), another super roof problem that involves all sorts of trickery and cunning knee bars. And finally, Tweedley succeeded on his own 15m roof project with Elysium (8a), a pre dawn start being a key factor in his success (an alpinist at heart!). Its second ascent came only minutes later form MacLeod (who held his ropes). Dave confirmed the grade as solid and a contender for Scotland’s best route at that grade. Not that there are that many 8a’s to compete with.


Dave MacLeod making the first ascent of Apollo (8a+), Tighnabruach.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Dave MacLeod

Dunkeld
At Cave crag I was saddened by the appearance of an eliminate (graded 8a) squeezed in between Silk Purse and Marlina. While I understand ones quest for a route of this grade, my gripe is purely from an aesthetic standpoint. The wall is already peppered with bolts and with this new addition it has become a real eyesore. No doubt I’m in a minority but I’m hopeful that such a blinkered approach will not spread like an unwanted rash to other quality crags such as The Tunnel Wall.

Glen Ogle
Niall McNair sends in details of two worthy second ascents – Solitaire was completed after a swift couple of hours work. Originally graded as soft touch 8b by MacLeod, Niall found a completely new sequence (lurking beneath some dollops of moss) reducing the grade to 8a+. Niall confirmed the climbs high quality. Niall also accounts for the second ascent of Ceasefire (8a+) on The Diamond and commenting that it was the first time he spent more than a day working a route. I apologise for sticking my nose in here but Niall’s comment did bring smile to my face. Ceasefire is an abandoned project which was equipped by Duncan Macallum back in the early 90’s. It’s projected grade at that time was 8b. In between shifts I had a play and after two attempts top roped the route after about an hours work and guessed 8a+. So Niall, if it’s the first time you’ve spent more than a day working a route, it’s about time you put that talent of your to good use!

Dumbuck
Voodoo Magic has been repeated by McNair who settled for 8a+. This climb has something of a chequered history. It was originally climbed by Andy Gallagher in the early 80’s and graded 8b. MacLeod repeated the route after a large percentage of the climbs holds had been pulled off. Dave confirmed the grade but was of the opinion that in its original state it was overgraded. The climb continues to receive attention with a corresponding loss of holds, and the most recent ascent by Niall only came after another hold was pulled off and glued back in place by someone else working the route!


WINTER NEWS TO DATE 06/07

True to form the November snows eventually arrived, brief though they were. The keen ones enjoyed some early season sport on the usual Cairngorm classics. A few bibs and bobs were climbed elsewhere however such as Sgoran Dubh Mor in Gleann Einich and on Sputan Dearg.

Though generally milder, a much more substantial snowfall arrived around mid to late November and lasted for some two weeks, but curiously this appeared to go largely unnoticed by the masses. On the Ben Gargoyle Wall and Route 1 Direct were climbed before subsequent milder weather made its presence felt. Record breaking rainfall accompanied by high winds brought widespread flooding to many parts of Scotland and a general stripping back of any remaining snow. It was a depressing time to say the least. But according to Hamish McInnis, heavy rain is a sign of a heavy winter, but personally speaking I think we need more snow and sub zero temperatures first. The monsoons eventually gave way to a colder snap and the third most recent snow (before the New Year) but most climbers resident in the Highlands had by now long since immigrated to sunnier climes or committed suicide! On the weekend of the 17th December, the Northern Coires were descended upon by unprecedented numbers of climbers (for that time of year) with parties seen on just about all the hard classics, including the likes of Bulgy and White Magic, and one or two less frequented climbs such as The Vagrant. Elsewhere routes were climbed on the Ben, Beinn a Bhuird, Lochnagar and Beinn Eighe. By Christmas only the deep snow/ice holding gullies remained. With the long term forecast suggesting more snow the beginning of the winter for 2007 is looking up – here’s hoping Hamish was right!

Coire Sputan Dearg – Anchor Buttress
On the 9th December, Dave McGimpsey, Andy Nisbet and Johnathen Preston climbed Lanyard (III) which takes a line of grooves on the right face of the buttress containing anchor route.

On the 19th of December, Nisbet returned on his own and soloed two new grade II’s. In the Snake Ridge area he climbed the next gully right of Ladders. This contains a huge chockstone which provided the only real difficulties on the climb. Grass Snake takes a ridge formed on the left wall of a narrow gully with a well defined crest in its upper part.

Gleann Einich – Fan Coire (the high bowl between the tops of Number 2 and Number 3 Buttress).
On the 15th December, John Lyle, McGimpsey and Nisbet climbed the line of Nigg by the summer route at grade III. While Nogg (II) is an easier line just to the left. Fan Rib (III) sported a few thin moves at the start. The same team returned on the 19th December adding another route to Number 4 Buttress. This takes the right-hand rib of the buttress (Einich rib being the central), finishing up a well defined crest.

CAIRNGORMS
Beinn a Bhuird – Coire na Ciche
Guy Robertson and Es Tresidder have made the first winter ascent of Hot Toddy (VS in summer) to establish a very good three pitch route graded VII,8. Robertson described the climbing as a bigger more committing version of the Northern Coires. He had infact climbed the crux second pitch back in 1997 but on that occasion (as a young apprentice) he ran out of time (and energy). He added that it was the first real attempt at a new winter line and a period in his climbing where he would push himself to his absolute limit. Hey Guy, just think what you could do now! Also in Coire na Ciche, Pete Benson and Ross Hewitt made an ascent of Watch Tower (VI,6).

Lochnagar
Es Tresidder and Vivian Scott have added a variation to Where Eagles Dare (climbed last winter by Simon Richardson and Guy Robertson), taking a line to the right of the right arête of that climb – no details as yet.

Elsewhere in the Cairngorms, Mark Garthwaite and Rab Anderson have made an early ascent of The Vagrant (formerly New Age Traveller). They found the route to be much harder than the suggested grade of VI,7, with Garthwaite pulling out all the stops to avoid falling off. Neither did they think that the climb was well protected. Apparently Nisbet who was on the first ascent originally gave the route VII,7 but was influenced by the ascent of another party who dispensed with the climb with relative ease. An excellent main pitch nevertheless.

NW HIGHLANDS
Beinn Eighe - Fusalage Wall

On the 17th December, the Nisbet, McGimpsey, Preston team have climbed what Nisbet describes as a lovely new route named Fight or Flight. While modestly graded at V,6, the steep and exposed nature of the climbing is not for those of a nervous disposition. On the right side of the wall lies a fault within which a corner capped by a large roof is followed. Nisbet added “ the climbing is sustained with no individual hard moves and the rock very accommodating”. A tiny, hanging slab sandwiched between the roofs proving to be the key.

More recently, and taking advantage of the only respite during the New Year storms, Nisbet and McGimpsey returned on the 2nd January to the steep area of wall right of West Buttress and climbed Still Game (and indeed discovered they still are!), VI,7. The pair followed a crackline up the smooth wall right of the Domino Block on the corner finish, and the right-hand finish to West Buttress. The cracks which were wide enough in places (friend 4 useful) to provide a variety of torqueing technique. Nisbet said the climbing was excellent, marred only by the terraced nature of the West Buttress and possible escape.

Ben Nevis
Ian Small and Blair Fyffe have repeated Strident Edge, climbing the main difficulties all in one big pitch. They confirmed the grade of VI,7 and felt that other than a brief bold section reaching the groove, the climb was well protected and less strenuous than its neighbour. Also that day Kellets Slab Climb (originally climbed by Nisbet at VI,7), received an ascent by Malcolm Bass and partner.


That's it folks! Throughout this winter I'll be updating the winter news on a regular basis so keep a look out, and drop me an e-mail if you have any interesting news - repeat or new route info.

Cheers, Cubby.

other useful Scottish climbing links:
For articles and climbing & bouldering news updates visit Scottish Climbs http://www.scottishclimbs.com

For bouldering articles and latest news visit John Watson's recently redesigned site at http://www.stonecountry.co.uk

For latest winter reports and conditions visit Kimber's site at http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk and http://www.abacusmountaineering.com

And for more Scottish winter conditions and info. - climbing and weather reports, web cams and much more, visit Winternet at http://www.winternet-scotland.co.uk

For avalanche conditions http://www.sais.gov.uk

For mountain weather forecasts visit http://www.mwis.org.uk

And looking for some climbing instruction or guiding in a sunnier clime?... then visit Ryan Glass at http://www.ryanglass-mountaineering.co.uk