So there’s hope yet despite the dreadful start to the winter. Hamish McInnes was saying that he remembers two winters back to back that were even drier than this season. It’s hard to believe. However that aspiring ‘old fox’ Alan Fyffe was more scathing and couldn’t remember a winter so depressingly lacking in the white stuff.

To pick up from my last report dated 9th January, there have been the usual isolated deposits of snow with one very good fleeting flurry in the Cairngorms, which I suspect went largely unnoticed by the majority of west coasters. This instigated a hive of activity in the northern coires but for those brave enough to head over the back, Carn Etchachan was in superb nick. Ice free dry rock and a coating of fluffy alpine snow, sticking to the buttresses - the sort of stuff that sparkles and floats away with a light brush of the hand. Having wasted time on Stag Rocks, veterans Mark Garthwaite and Rab Anderson saved the day with an early ascent of Pythagoras (VI,7) which they thought to be very good and quite sporting. The area above the terrace on Carn Ethachan has received much praise recently and despite the lengthy approach the majority of climbs present only one or two hard pitches. At V,6 Guillotine has become the established classic hereabouts and sports an unlikely though impressive top pitch. “It’s definitely three stars” remarked guide book author Andy Nisbet.

Guy Robertson is back in action after a sciatic nerve operation but you’ll be glad to know that he’s just as grumpy as ever! Climbing with Simon Richardson the masterly opportunists discovered a line completely overlooked by others in Lochnagar with an impressive direct finish to Eagle Buttress.

More recently an on-form Tim Emmet dispensed with the third ascent of Happy Tyroleans after taking a short fall low down. Dave MacLeod (who held his ropes) said the climb was in exceptional conditions and free of ice. Tim did the climb in one giant pitch and reckoned M8+, but on the day he clearly got and ‘easy ride’. One wonders where the grade would settle in more typical icy conditions – but that’s winter for you!

Andy Nisbet and the usual team of Dave McGimpsey, Johnathan Preston and Ed Edwards continue to develop routes in high and remote places, though at a generally lower standard than one would normally expect from a man of Nisbet’s calibre. Not that a replacement hip and a smashed femur in years gone by has got anything to do with slowing him down!

Superb weather and very little snow yielded climbs on the Braereach cliffs. On the South West Face of Garbh Choire Daidh for example, an area which would typically be a snow slope capped by impossible cornices in a normal winter, gave some continuous snow and ice lines where even the Northern Coires were bare. The same team (with the addition of John Lyall) have also been active the north-west where they visited Bheinn Eighe, Sgorr Ruadh and The Fannichs.

In the west it has been a rather sad affair as far as climbing conditions are concerned though the superb weather dominating the west has been much enjoyed by everyone. Local guides and instructors will lead you believe otherwise but that’s only because they’ve avoided wearing waterproofs for just about the entire season so far! Hey folks let’s not confuse being dry with good climbing conditions! Despite the lack of snow and ice and even at the season’s all time low, Zero and Point Five received the odd ascent. Rumours of a repetition of Sioux Wall pre the recent snow fall have yet to be confirmed. More recently (Feb 25th), Es Tresidder notes an ascent of Left Hand Route on the Minus Face, not surprisingly finding it difficult in the lean conditions. Ice is building though and more of the classics are shaping up nicely, including the likes of Gemini. And then our prayers were answered and the snow gods delivered - hallelujah!

During the week of the Fort William Film Festival, snow started to fall on the Wednesday the 15th of Feb and didn’t really stop for two days, depositing a large amount of arctic powder. The mountains were generally too dangerous to permit any serious climbing and those who persevered unsurprisingly either found themselves avalanched, or experienced good value on unconsolidated classics such as Observatory Ridge. It was bad timing for visiting American Will Gadd. Will had to settle (or is it suffer) for the less savoury delights of Birnam Quarry where he repeated Too Fast Too Furious. Riding ‘bareback’ (of course no heel spurs) Will rated the climb M11+ (M10+ with spurs). He then went on to complete the old Squirrels aid crack (which had been equipped by Scott Muir), to produce a very inspiringly named climb - Training For Something at M12-, which makes this and Too Fast the hardest new routes of their genre in the UK.

Ben Nevis

Showing the line of the 'true finish' to Italian Climb on Ben Nevis. Photo: with thanks and copyright to Tim Emmet.

Well the recent snow eventually settled sufficiently for Dave MacLeod and Tim Emmet who dispensed with the much eyed ‘true finish’ to Italian Climb. Given the lack of build-up, three pitches on powder covered compact rock were climbed from a point where Italian heads right.
In a more typical season (if such a thing exists anymore) this section would normally be more straight-forward, III/IV ice rather than the necky V/VI experienced. Dave said that the crux 4th pitch, which is the cave-like recess that overhangs the gully, was in perfect nick. The climbing involved a steep left traversing line to enter an exposed and necky turf groove. Graded VIII,9 (M7+), the line was typically as much about finding protection as the climbing itself.

Dave MacLeod on the crux pitch on the True Finish to Italian Climb. Photo: with thanks and copyright to Tim Emmett.

Glencoe
Since the snow fall conditions for mixed climbing have been excellent with many modern classics getting repeats such as Central Buttress and Un Poco Loco, the latter by Andy Sharpe. Ian Parnell and Steve Ashworth endured deep snow on Unicorn but were sadly unaware of the climbs sting in the tail above the twin corners. The pair abseiled off thinking they had essentially climbed all the difficulties, which is a shame because it was an otherwise flawless ascent in full-on conditions. Going back to Un Poco Loco, this route essentially takes the summer line of Crack Climb (VS/HVS) but avoids that routes first pitch by following Crypt. On Feb 25th, Andy Clark (not to be confused with the well-known Clarke of ‘The Shroud’ fame), and Stuart McFarlane reported an ascent which at long last of the original line – (the obvious groove and twin cracks to the left of Crypt), and thereby completing the first winter ascent of Crack Climb in its entirety. VI,7 has been suggested for this pitch and a belay was taken on the ledge that extends into Crypt.

Tom Buggy on Carte Blanche (IV,5) on 27th Feb. Photo: with thanks and copyright to David Crawford.

South of Glencoe in the Orchy Hills, conditions have been improving and at last ice is starting to develop in the likes of Beinn an Dothaidh. Beinn Udlaidh is thin though climbing there has been reported.


Showing great conditions at Beinn Udlaidh. Photo: copyright Cubby Images

It’s been a different case in the Arrochar area and although some bibs and bobs have been completed, the volume of snow in the north just hasn’t reached that far south. Despite the extremely dry and sunny weather, David Crawford has sent in a number of routes Creagan Sputan (east of Beinnein Tuliachen which is a subsidiary of Cruach Ardrain). Approaching from Balqhidder via Inverlochlarig a parallel ice fall is obvious. It’s steepest section is about 70m in height and given grade III on the day. As Rob Roy is said to have lived in Inverlochlarig, Rob Roy Falls has been suggested as a name for their new climb.
Ben Lomond Endrick Corner 105m, V,6 takes a prominent right-facing corner on the turfy buttress 200m down and to the left of Lomond Corner. A body width chimney breaching a roof on pitch two provides the crux of this three pitch climb. Stuart McFarlane was his partner.

Ben Alder – Garbh Coire Beag
Culra Rib 300m, II was climbed on the 17th January by Andy Nisbet. This is the rib left of Culra Couloir, climbed initially on ice then moves right to the crest. The lower section would probably bank out in full conditions and the climb is closer to grade III were it not for easier options on the left. On the 28th Jan, Andy returned with McGimpsey and Preston to add Smallville 250m, IV,5. This takes the left side of the triangular buttress between McCooks Gully and Left Gully, avoiding the lower tier. The left-hand of three steep grooves above the terrace was followed and present the crux. Turfy grooves leading right then back left to a large bay, the right side of which leads to the cornice.

NORTH WEST
The Fannichs – Creag Loch Tuill Bhearnach
This is an east to north-east facing crag lying astride the nose of the East Ridge of Sgurr nan Clachan Gaela, directly below the summit. Weary Wall 200m, III was climbed by John Lyall and Nisbet on January 14th and takes an easier line up the south side of the buttress. Lap of Honour 65m, V,6 was added in December last year and gets three stars despite being relatively short. The climb presents two excellent, well protected pitches following a prominent chimney crack and corner.

Sgorr Ruadh
The benefits of a guide book author resulted in this route. Sticky Fingers 240m, V,5 takes the vague crest left of Tophet Gully and required devious route finding skills to avoid steep blank walls, with a finish on the upper crest of Raeburns buttress – courtesy of Ed Edwards, McGimpsey and Nisbet.

Bheinn Eighe – Coire Ruadh Staca, Pineapple Cliff.
The same team endured the long approach to this cliff only to discover that it was essentially bare. Their efforts were more than rewarded however, for their proposed new route held an abundance of ice. Lip Service 110m, V,5 yielded four good pitches and was climbed on Feb 21st.


On the first ascent of Lip Service (V,5) Beinn Eighe. Photo: with thanks and copyright to Andy Nisbet

Cairngorms – Braeriach – Garbh Choire Dhaidh, South West Face
Pea Soup 250m, II was climbed on the 3rd of Feb and is another solitary contribution by Mr Nisbet. The climb takes a gully roughly in the centre of the face, left of two steeper buttresses and includes two ice pitches. Chewing The Fat 250m, II was also added here by Nisbet and Johnathan Preston. Right of centre on the South West Wall are two steep buttresses under the plateau. Between them a groove and ramp were followed to a high bay which in lean conditions may hold continuous ice. A break in the cornice on the left is essential.

Coire Bhrochain
On the 26th of January, during a period of lean and cold conditions, a low angled icefall forms over the broken ground left of the main buttress. This was followed, finishing up a gully between Molar and Fang, sometimes passing under a wedged block.

Lochnagar
Where Eagles Dare is essentially a three pitch direct to Eagle Buttress, courtesy of Guy Robertson and Simon Richardson. The climb follows a distinctive fork-lightning crack up the diamond shaped wall on the top right flank of Eagle Ridge. Never one to let his enthusiasm run away with himself, Guy describes the climb as truly out there and definitely one of the best mixed pitches on the mountain. Graded VII,8 it is said to be sustained and “quite tricky but with gear you’d hang your granny off!”.

It will be interesting to see how the remainder of the season unfolds. I was in Aviemore last week and the volume of snow was very impressive, reminiscent of the Alps and apparently it was similar on the North West. With this much snow around there didn’t appear to be much climbing getting done, in fact the most exciting event would appear to be news of the abandoned Sea King in Coire an t’Sneachda being lifted out by Chinook but I don’t think it’s happened yet. For your own interest it’s been looked after by two armed guards! The west needs more snow and a bit of a thaw to start shaping things up but it’s looking potentially good for a classic late season on the Ben. In the meantime the superb weather continues and with the sun warmer and higher in the sky, it’s been perfect for bouldering in the likes of Glen Nevis.



Graeme Ettle enjoying good conditions on The Crack, Northern Coires. Photo: copyright Cubby Images

Cubby

other useful Scottish climbing links:
For articles and climbing & bouldering news updates visit Scottish Climbs
http://www.scottishclimbs.com

For bouldering articles and latest news visit John Watson's recently redesigned site at http://www.stonecountry.co.uk

For latest winter reports and conditions visit Kimber's site at
http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk

And for more Scottish winter conditions and info. - climbing and weather reports, web cams and much more, visit Winternet at
http://www.winternet-scotland.co.uk