The weekend of the 26th/27th of November did for the majority of us, mark the beginning of the winter season for 2005/6. And what a promising start it turned out to be. On Thursday evening prior to the weekend, it snowed heavily with 6-12 inches down at sea level in the west, with the east and north-west receiving much of the same treatment. Fortunately the volume of snow was substantial enough to withstand the subsequent thaw. But unlike recent years the cold snap quickly returned. The northerlies carrying this snow did little for the Ben (although an ascent of Darth Vader was made by Vivian Scott and partner). Glencoe’s, premier venues suffered a similar trait although the Aonach Eagach looked superb for almost a week when viewed from the A82. In the nearby Orchy hills it was an altogether different story with plenty of snow accompanied by substantial frosting. It was still early days for a good ice build up but many of the mixed classics received ascents, including Menage a trois, not to mention a couple of new additions.


Vivian Scott looking for a belay at the top of the crux pitch on Menage a trois, Orchy hills.
Photo: copyright and thanks to Chris McDaid

Prior to this period, the Highlands had already received a substantial fall of snow and it was at this time when some surprisingly good routes were completed. The weather was much less settled however but it didn’t stop Jon Bracey and Rich Cross from repeating Daddy Longlegs (VII,9), the short but steeply overhanging crux wall providing Bracey with the hardest pull he has had to make on a Scottish winter route yet. The same pair then moved on to the north-west where they enjoyed further success.

The Northern Coires attracted the usual interest and perhaps more noticeable when compared to previous seasons is the sheer number of parties operating at higher levels. Puffer, Bulgy, White Magic, The Crack, Genie, Torquing Heads, The Vicar, Prore - all received ascents. Interestingly however, there are still many comments floating around regarding grade inconsistencies and there is a general feeling that a number of climbs in the Northern Coires are suffering from gross under grading (never!). These remarks are wide and varied and in some cases they reflect the views of some of Scotland’s most seasoned winter activists. Torquing Heads probably tops the list and recent suggestions reflect grades ranging between VI,7 to VII,8. After a recent ascent, a normally conservative Garthwaite, reckoned VI,7 but Rab Anderson, who partnered him on this occasion, was of the opinion that Garth didn’t normally take so long on a technical 7. Torquing Heads was originally climbed by two of Scotland’s strongest winter protagonists – Willie Todd and Andy Cunningham. Andy’s credentials are well coveted but Willie, as far as today’s generation is concerned, is perhaps something of a dark horse. Willie now lives in Chamonix where he works as a mountain guide but in the 70’s and 80’s he was one of the leading rock climbers on the Scottish scene and no slouch in winter either. So it comes as no surprise to me that Willie’s name is connected with this climb.

More recently in the run up to New Year the crags have suffered as a result of further thawing. Still, this didn’t stop the keen ones and why not? We all know that as a general rule more snow and ice on mixed rotes equates to a corresponding rise in difficulty. The climbs don’t suffer any more or less and those involved are probably having some fun, just don’t write home about it – that’s all I say! While I’m on this theme, I note with interest a thread posted on Scottish Climbs regarding an ascent of Genie on the 25th December in rather lean conditions and illustrated by a photograph. In another conversation with Rab Anderson he commented that two days later he and Garthwaite climbed the route in more than acceptable nick, the result of a brief thaw and snap snow fall sticking nicely to the rock. Both were of the opinion that they would certainly not have attempted the climb under the conditions shown in the photo. So there you have it.

After Christmas it was looking like Scotland’s winter coires were about to be stripped completely when yet more snow arrived on the 29th and 30th December, enough at least to provide some convincing conditions for mixed climbing and even a little bit of ice. Not everyone took advantage of this brief spell, although an English incursion by Ian Parnell and Oliver Metherell were quick off the mark with a repeat of Didgeridoo in the Gorms and a new route on the Ben. In Glencoe the North and West faces of Aonach Dubh looked enticing and given the deep freeze, I’m sure Against All Odds would have been a good choice.

While I’m on a bit of a rant, I thought I’d just recap on a few comments from last year before starting the report. With a focus on one week in particular, many superlatives have been laboured over last season’s achievements. Remarks such as, the finest weeks climbing ever witnessed in Scottish mountaineering history, and new levels of difficulty established. To add my own tuppence-worth, I’d have to disagree with both of these remarks. The week in question of course centres around Bruno Sourjac of France and Dave Hesleden’s week on the International Meet held at Glenmore Lodge. A superb tally of climbs by any standards, but come on let’s put things into perspective. In terms of raising standards surely there have been some very impressive climbs that go back 25 years or more, climbs that have broken barriers both mentally and physically; Mousetrap, Goliath, Citadel, Red Guard (free), Pinnacle Face (free), Shield Direct, Route Two Direct, Central Grooves, Tilt, and dare I be so bold as to mention my own finest hour, Guerdon Grooves, a climb I have to confess to feeling somewhat robbed of in recent years. But rumour has it that Guerdon is a “bit of a one-off” and therefore doesn’t count! There are others such as Centurian, winter Needle, Trail of Tears, Diedre of Sorrows and Torquing Corpes. There are more recent routes too such as The Vicar, Prore, Blood Sweat and Frozen Tears, Magic Bow Wall, Marathon Corner and Mort to name just a few. But in my mind these climbs do little more than consolidate on the standards set by preceding generations.

I selected the climbs in the first group because essentially they were attempted with a puritanical approach and without recourse to aid, unlike other climbs from that period. I’m not condemning these other ascents in anyway, in fact in many respects they were visionary masterpieces but it has to be said that many made considerable use of aid. I know, one could argue that a few controversial hard climbs sets the wheels in motion, The Steeple and Crazy Sorrow for example. Anyway, I could go on but not to digress any further, the culminating point in Sourjac and Hesleden’s week was the first ascent of the much sought after gap between Fly Direct and Smiths Gully, Extasy on Creag Meagaidh. I for one have to admit to feeling a pang of envy on hearing the news on their success, but are Extasy and others like it, protoypes of an unprecedented level of difficulty, a difficulty that nudges boundaries that extra special degree. Sure, they are outstanding performances but I cannot help thinking that some of these climbs fall into a classic product of the 80’s category. Just as the likes of McInnes, Patey, Marshall, Smith and Bonnington etc, should have climbed the likes of Gully of the Gods on Beinn Bhan, or Fly Direct on Creag Meagaidh, so to should have Extasy been climbed in the 80’s. It’s worth noting that McInnes and Bonnington, operating independently of each other both abseiled from the crux of Gully of the Gods (before it was climbed) due to a lack of ice.

How about this (see photo).


1986, Cubby and The Brat on Fly Direct (just visible on the upper right of this photo). On the left of the photo, two (unknown) climbers 'off-route', climb what has now become the first pitch of Extasy.
Photo: thanks to Mungo Ross, copyright Cubby Images

Two climbers are attempting what they think is Smiths Gully but actually it’s Fly Direct. They think that the first pitch looks out of condition so they take to the left wall (the line of Extasy). Although bare in appearance the first pitch of Fly Direct was in very good condition and the best pitch on the entire climb, which I did that day with The Brat in 1986. There is some logic n their mistake because it transpired that the two unknown English gentlemen had climbed what they thought to be Ritchies Gully sometime previously but obviously did Smiths by mistake. Acting on advice from The Brat, who no doubt had an ulterior motive, (such as wanting Fly Direct to himself, or to return with a view to climbing the wall to its left), the pair promptly abseiled off. They did in fact climb the first pitch of what became Extasy, which is now rated technical 7.

So who’s cutting it in Scottish climbing at the moment? There’s no doubt about the new technical levels being introduced by Dave MacLeod, they’re in a league of their own. But for me to comment on the longer multi pitch routes, the type that some how epitomise what the Scottish winter is perceived by the media to be all about, would be far too opinionated!


Dry tooling techniques applied to good effect - Dave MacLeod struggles with iced up cracks, on something, somewhere on Ben Nevis .....
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

What I will say however is that the time is right for change. Dry-tooling as with sport climbing on rock is not going to translate to hardcore Scottish mixed on its own, but in the right hands and with the right attitude of mind, who knows what’s possible. Does it really matter, do we really care? We pretend not, but of course we do care and above all we will always need something to gossip about!

TORRIDON/ BEINN EIGHE
Coire Mhic Fearchair
Arguable the most impressive route climbed so far this season goes to Jon Bracey, Rich Cross and Martin Moran with the first ascent of Hydroponicum (VIII,8) on the sensational quartzite of the Far East Wall.

Non other than the ubiquitous Mr Nisbet had designs on climbing this route in winter way back in the early 90’s, but in the end he thought it was just too difficult-looking for him. With John Ellott, Andy climbed the line in summer to provide a three pitch HVS/E1 5a. That was in ’94. In between times, Moran and Chris Dale had made an admirable attempt, which ended with Moran failing to find a solution to complete a bold section at the top of pitch two, and with some precarious down climbing ending their attempt on that occasion. Andy declined Moran’s offer of an attempt on the line earlier this season and in the end he imported an on form Bracey and Cross to complete a very strong three man team of British Mountain Guides. After a turfy introduction pitch, Moran lead a sustained and sporting technical 7 (5a in summer) to take a belay at his previous high point (which is slightly below the normal summer belay). Pitch three (also 5a in summer) proved to be the crux and offers precarious and very sustained climbing with protection that is more than difficult to locate. An impressed Moran said that the unhelpful quartzite pushed Bracey to his very limit and there is no doubt that this pitch provided the crux of the climb at technical 8. “It was a superb effort and a fine lead”. Cross took the sharp end for the final lead, which proved to be only marginally easier at a sustained and technical 7. Moran commented that the conditions were perfect with plenty of snow, verglass and considerable icing.

West Buttress – Fusalage Wall
Bombs Away (60m, grade V,7 climbed on the 17th of December) climbs the right side of Fusalage Wall (right of the route of the same name) and is said to be very steep and improbable but extremely helpful and well protected, courtesy of Nisbet and Jonathan Preston. Access is via a walk from Fusalage Gully, beneath the top tier of West Buttress.


Johnathan Preston on the crux pitch of Bombs Away, Beinn Eighe.
Photo: copyright and thanks to Andy Nisbet

Druim Shionnach, West Face
Nisbet, this time in the company of Dave McGimpsey climbed Bowling Alley (90m, grade VII,6) on the 1st of January, which essentially takes the face to the right of the fault of Bow Peep. The route was climbed in two big pitches of 50 and 40 metres, with the second pitch providing increasingly exposed climbing with decreasing protection.

Fuar Tholl
Climbing solo, Nisbet added Summit Rib (150m, grade II) on the 26th of November (a grade III scramble in summer), which climbs the most prominent of several ribs which lead up the North West Face of Fuar Tholl from Mainreachan Corrie, and ends just south of the summit.

Fuar Tholl, West Top - North Face
On the same day Nisbet then climbed Western Pinnacle (90m, grade III). He commented that the buttress is much shorter and somewhat broken but offers some easier lines.

THE FANNICH FOREST
Coileachan Garbh Coire Mor
In November John Lyle, Nisbet and Preston added Quidditch (170m, grade V,5) which takes a five pitch devious line up the centre of the featureless slabby wall on the left side of the coire.

BEN NEVIS
Very little to report here save for Ian Parnell and Oliver Metherall who spent their New Years day on the first ascent of Sioux Wall on No.3 Gully Buttress. It’s unbelievable to think that this popular HVS in summer has held out for such a long time, especially so after its neighbour, Arthur received a first winter ascent quite recently. Parnell with visiting American Kelly Cordes did in fact make the second ascent of Arthur while on the International Meet last year, which no doubt inspired the return trip. On the day however, it was Richardson and Cartwright’s Archangel that they were after but closer inspection of No.3 Gully Buttress revealed the climb to be sufficiently snowed up to tempt a closer look. A first winter ascent of Sioux Wall is much sought after and it proved to be a tough undertaking at VII,8. Parnell described the climb as “very physical” and likened it to The Vicar on steroids, being steeper and more sustained, and with a greater sense of commitment. There are four pitches in all. A short V,7 leads to the crux – a thin, ragged crack which proved to be very sustained and strenuous. Another tough pitch at VII,8 led to a devious and serious finale, which as ever was climbed with a sense of urgency in fading light and was given technical 7. It would appear that this top pitch is open to some variation but other than this section, Parnell was of the opinion that the climb was in general very well protected.

AONACH MOR
Simin Richardson and Chris Cartwright report an ascent of the much eyed wall to the left of Aquafresh with Twisted Blood (V,6). This line had been on their list for some time but it is threatened by huge cornices mid to late season so it needs to be climbed early in the season. The cliff was apparently in surprisingly good condition with quite a lot of ice which was said to be very useful.

MAMORES
On a north facing crag between Mullach nan Coirean and Stob Ban (grid ref 135 656) local lads Donald King and Andy Turner have added two new interesting routes with Not Bad For a Dad (80m, VI,7) and Himalayan Shuffle (VII,8). Both climbs are of the mixed variety and feature a very steep lower 25m section and are characterized by bouldery moves to the first protection at seven metres. As neither have climbed a technical 8, the grades are given as a suggestion only. Apparently this area also offers some very good ridges at a more moderate level, about 200m in length and up to grade II/III.


Andy Turner on the first ascent of Himalayan Shuffle, Mamores.
Photo: copyright and thanks to Donald King

CREAG MEAGAIDH
Not much to report here except that Richardson and Cartwright spent New Year climbing a new route on Bellevue Buttress on Meagaidh with Belle Vue, Bien Venue (V,5).

BEN ALDER
Garbh Coire Beag
On the 3rd of January, McGimpsey, Nisbet and Preston climbed the aptly named Aldermen 250m, II/III, (given two stars by a normally conservative Nisbet so it must be quite good). Approach as for Pat-a-cake and then takes an icy line in the vicinity of Alderwand.

ORCHY
Beinn an Dothaidh - North East Coire
There are two new routes to report here, Heyerdahl (145m, IV,5) was climbed on the 29th November by Erik Brunskill and Gavin Macfie, and offers bold climbing up the buttress crest left of The Skraeling. Thor (110m, IV,5) was climbed on the 27th November and takes the right-hand of two obvious gully grooves by a fairly direct line to the left of The Skraeling (and Heyerdahl), and were the work of Stuart Burns and David Crawford.


Stuart Burns on the first ascent of Thor, Beinn an Dothaidh.
Photo: copyright and thanks to David Crawford (and his mobile phone camera).

CAIRNGORMS
Braeriach - Garbh Choire Dhaidh
Ian Parnell and Oliver Metherall repeated Nisbet and Brain Davison’s Didgeridoo (a summer HVS 5a), eliminating a tension used on the first ascent, with no increase in grade at VII,6. Parnell was full of praise for the climb (definitely worth a couple of stars). Although its reputation as a serious climb was not completely unfounded, Parnell felt that the protection was in fact very good but well spaced, adding a sense of commitment to the climb.

Cartwright and Richardson climbed She-Devils Buttress with a new LH Finish at V,5, which allows the route to go in mixed conditions.

Creagan a’Choire Etchachan
On the smaller crags up and right of the Crimson Slabs, and starting up Stanley, Nisbet soloed the buttress on its right to give Jungle Formula (70m, grade III) on the 29th December.

Stacan Dubha (Grid ref 013 017)
The right-hand section contains a huge recess capped by overhanging walls in its centre. Skull Cap (200m, II) was also soloed by Nisbet on the 29th December, which takes a shallow gully and exits left to join the final crest of the ridge (The Shuttle).

Glen Clova – Winter Coire
Simon Richardson reports of fun trip, climbing the headwall between Backdoor Gully Direct Finish and Diagonal Gully. This is a steep, inverted triangular wall, rearing up to the vertical and gave a great route, named Wild Cat Wall (V,6), which was climbed with Chris Cartwright.

BOULDERING & ROCK NEWS
Dumbarton Rock
The Castle has received its third Font 8b with Pressure, courtesy of Dave MacLeod. It has been a frustrating autumn for Dave coming oh-so-close to succeeding on his new project, so success on this long standing problem could not have been more timely, both in terms of compensation and a personal best. Essentially the problem links the back of the cave beneath Gorilla on Eagle Rock with Smokescreen. This section is 8a+ on its own, (as is Smokescreen) and the only respite on the link is a one minute upside down shakeout on overhead heel hooks. The red-point crux was the innocuous little snatch from the last of the poor holds on Smokescreen, a tiny nick in a small ramp, to gain the sloping jug (hard 6b). Dave comments that you need to be fresh to make a necessary adjustment on the nick, before throwing for the sloping jug. What’s more is that it’s a nasty fall from here onto a spiky shelf and Dave had to build falling correctly into his sequence. Eleven red-points to this move over three weeks were required and even then it was a very have I, have I not moment. Dave said it’s the longest he’s ever spent on one climb, a period that covers four winters and somewhere in the region of 100 sessions, not to mention pulling off several holds and re learning sequences. Dave then continued to say “unless Si (O’Conor) suddenly decides to put his shoes on and climb, and prove all his doubters wrong, I think this will be considered the hardest problem in the country”.


100 sessions and Dave's really feeling the Pressure. A fine effort!
Photo: copyright and thanks to Hot Aches Images

Working in Glasgow, an on form Alan Cassidy has made the third ascent of Sabotage (Font 8a+) at Dumbarton Rock (the second going to Malcolm Smith some time ago). Hopefully we’ll be hearing more of Alan in the future. Great effort, keep up the good work.

The big news here is the confirmation of Tom Ballard’s second ascent of Steall Appeal (8b) in Glen Nevis, first climbed by Malcolm Smith in 1993.


Malcolm Smith on the first ascent of Steall Appeal, 1993. It remained unrepeated until this spring when the young Tom Ballard claimed the second ascent.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

The crux of this route is low down and involves a very hard move at technical 7a. It is especially hard for the short which makes Tom’s ascent all the more impressive. Leopold (8a+) and People Will Talk (which he thought might be worth 8a) were also repeated. Tom accounts for a considerable number of other early ascents, including the classic Tunnel Wall triptych, The Railway Children (7c), The Tribeswoman (7c+) and Fated Path (7c) in Glencoe. Digital Quartz (a short bouldery 8b) in Glen Ogle which proved sporting, due to an exceptionally long move on the crux. Off The Beaten Track (8a) was also completed. At Balmashanner Quarry he dispensed with Stuart Cameron’s classis test piece, The Niche (8a+), and then added a dynamic link named Tower of Pain (8a+) which connects The Niche with Gravitys Rainbow. Gravitys Rainbow (7c+) was also completed and High Tension, which he thought might warrant 8a. And last Autumn at Birnam (Newtyle) Quarry Tom also repeated Hurly Burly (8b). He comments that although he thought this route was extremely steep and sustained, it did not contain any very hard crux moves, and therefore may warrant 8a+.

More recently Tom has shown a keen interest in winter climbing and dry tooling. Armed with a pair of home made axes and no heel spurs, he dispensed with Fast and Furious (D11) at Birnam Quarry, finding it strenuous. He also accounts for ascents of Monkey up a Stick (D8), Stinger (with a new direct start), Hammerhead and The Quarryman (D9), and a flashed ascent of Happy Hooker (D7). Tom is now 17, but was 16 when he repeated all the above climbs, so I’m sure we’ll be hearing more of him in the near future!

And finally, (if a little belated), I’ve written an obituary for Elly Moriarty, one of Scotland’s most colourful climbing personalities, which can be viewed at http://www.cubbyimages.co.uk/articles/articles.htm

Next month as well as Scottish winter, I’ll be covering what the Scots have been up to abroad.

Good climbing,
Cubby.

Also check out these sites for latest Scottish winter news/conditions and bouldering exploits
Up to date bouldering info: http://www.stonecountry.co.uk
Winter news and weather:http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk
Breaking news! http://www.scottishclimbs.com