Upper Cave Crag, Dunkeld - the epitome of an autumn venue. Es Tresidder discovers sport climbing (and enjoying it) on Hamish Teds ... 7c.
photo: Cubby Images

Despite the occasional day of reasonable snow cover in the Cairngorms and Ben Nevis, October must be one of the mildest on record. Save for a few good days last week, it has also been very wet. Not good news for cragging, but an indication that displays all the hallmarks of a good ice forming year so let’s keep our fingers crossed!

Another rest, another screamer - Dave MacLeod contemplates one more attempt on project X.
photo: Cubby Images

I was hoping to inform the climbing world of Dave MacLeod’s success on project X but he’s pulled the crux undercut off and is currently working on a new sequence. With the onslaught of winter it’s looking increasingly unlikely that he’ll get it this year. I’ll breathe a sigh of relief when he makes a decision because I’m not sure if I can stand watching the sixty foot screamers he’s been taking. Apart from this excitement, there is still some little pockets of activity going on out there on the Scottish crags.

OUTER HEBRIDES
Previously unreported in The Bay Area of Pabbay is a line called B.A.R.T (E5 6a), a route through the main roof to the left of Jesus Wants Me…which was climbed back in June by Iain Small and Johnny Clark.

THE NORTH WEST
Tarbet Sea Cliffs

The arrival of the new SMC Northern Highlands North guidebook last year revealed a few obvious gaps on this scenic coastline. Steve Kennedy and Bob Hamilton (occasionally joined by his son Tam) added somewhere in the region of 20 new routes ranging in difficulty between VD and E3.

Balmy Slabs
Jeepers Creepers (E1 5b) follows the corner line staring about 15m right of Writers Cramp with some thin moves low down. Cornucopia Roof Top Finish (E1 5b) is a fine airy finish to Cornucopia (the classic VS hereabouts) taking the hanging slab left of that climbs finishing chimney.

Geo Amair, the next geo north of Acarseid Mhic Mhurchaidh Oig. This consists of a large south-facing slab with an overhanging red wall to its right. Approach as for Grey Slabs. Lone Shark (Hard Severe 4a) takes the corner defining the right edge of the main slab and climbed via narrow rock tongue and thin slab to gain the corner. Prawn Stars (Hard Severe 4a) – the slim corner in the upper slab a few metres left of Lone Shark, starting up the thin slab of that route. Prawn Again Christian (V Diff) takes the obvious crack line running up the slab just left of Prawn Stars. The next obvious break through the overlap left of this provided some light entertainment for the pair with Prawnography (Severe), while Prawn Connery (severe) follows another crack line breaking through the overlap approx. 6m left again and is climbed via a small left-facing corner. Creelman (V Diff) follows the left-facing corner near the left edge of the main slab and with the addition of A MacDonald, Save the Prawn (VS 4c) takes the leftmost edge of the narrow slab just left of the corner of Creelman. And finally Curse the Trawlers (VS 4b) is an atmospheric route up the tapering slab right of the main slab. You would never have guessed that Bob Hamilton is a prawn fisherman!

The Red Wall
The Boardmaster (E3 5c) is a fine and sustained route following the striking left-trending crack line in the middle of the red wall and is said to offer steep and very exposed climbing but well protected, courtesy of Steve and Bob, (joined on this occasion by George Reid). Marinator (Hard Severe 4b) is the prominent right arête accessed by abseil. Right of Marinator is a smaller buttress characterized by a small but prominent quartz pinnacle just right of some steep crack lines. Quartz Pinnacle (V Diff) starts just left of the quartz pinnacle and traverses rightwards via the pinnacle to the edge forming the right side of a large flake. Crack of the Ancient Mariner (E1 5b) takes the strenuous undercut crack left of Quartz Pinnacle.

At the back of Narrow Inlet, well right of Quartz Pinnacle are two south-facing slabs, approached at low tide by scrambling down easy slab from base of quartz Pinnacle. Minnow (V Diff) is a disappointing route up the left edge of the left-hand slab. Sea Wasp (VS 4c) takes the left edge of the black right-hand slab to finish via crack. Piranha (Severe) is a direct line up the right-hand side of the right-hand slab starting from boulders. This time, with the addition of Andy MacDonald, an unnamed V Diff takes a steep and juggy line on the dark north wall of the geo, reached by abseil.

Upper Tier
Above the geo is a long wall of good quality, containing a number of grooves and with a slabby right edge. The right edge offers a convenient descent down slabs (Diff in ascent). Son of a Pitch (Severe) which was climbed with George Reid and takes the corner right of Pocketed Rib (right of chimney/groove on left side of wall) via sloping shelf. Sundance Kid (HVS 5a) takes the pocketed rib to join Son of a Pitch at the sloping shelf.

Cul Mor, Creag nan Calman
Inverpolly Pillar (E2 5c) was the work of Iain Small and Susan Jenson, follows the prominent steep pillar above Lochan Dearg a Chuil Mhoire and is said to have a particularly fine outlook.

CAMUS MOR AREA (north of Ardmair)
Creag an Airgid
A team comprising Niall McNair, Johnny Clark and Iain Small have added two routes to this steep sandstone crag (which contains some areas of loose rock). Blitzkreig (E5 6a,5b) - the overhanging groove, while Walking the Rock (E4 5b,6a) climbs the overhanging crack line of the central prow and is said to be fantastic.

LIATACH
Sgorr a Chadail
Chris Cartwright and Iain Small have added two new lines here; False Identity (E2 5c,4c) and Chadailac (E3 5c,4c) which is described as a great line up central wall by intermittent cracks and breaks.

CAITHNESS
Latheron Wheel – Big Flat Wall Area
Most of the routes mentioned here are the work of Raymond Wallace and Rob Christie with some contributions made by Bob Tosh, John Malcolm and Gordon Milne. Chance Encounter (HVS 5a) climbs the overhanging crack right of Freakers Crack. Voodoo People (HVS 5a) takes a shallow corner and crack in steep wall left of Freakers Crack. Belarusk (E1 5b) – the wall between Border Raid and Angel of Sleep (avoiding massive chalkstone). The Grey Coastline (VS 4b) climbs the Grey Coast alcove onto the wall above going diagonally left and up crack to top, possibly climbed before.

The Stack Area
This area has seen the addition of four new Severes. Starting right of Sun Spot, Personalized Dwarf ascends up to and then right of overhanging arête. Starting two metres left of Outer Reach, Dabble (4a) follows right diagonal crack, while Dibble (4a) climbs the sweeping crack to the left of Dabble. Catching the Worm (4b) climbs a wide crack between the stack and Coaster to finish up narrow chimney.

Whaligoe, Neapolitan Buttress
This area was mentioned in my last report but lacked details but due to its three star status it sounds worthy of a closer look.

Situated directly south of Ellens Geo, and accessed from the Walligoe Stepps car park, walk one km north along cliff top through fields to reach small rocky outcrops. The main buttress lies below these, its northern end identifiable by a large block on the cliff edge before grassy gallery. Layer Cake (HVS 5a) is the route of the buttress and is approached via a steep tidal ledge running south into the sea from the north end of the high cliff. Climb a ledgey sandstone corner to a belay ledge at forty feet then continue up steep red sandstone corners to ledge at start of conglomerate and then up the layback corner above.

The following area is reached by scrambling down a grassy gallery at the north end of the big wall then abseil from a large block northwards down big ledges to a non-tidal ledge. The following two routes start on the wall to the right (facing in). Razorbill Redirection (HVS 5a). Starting below and right of a triangular niche, climb onto wall, traverse right to arête then up to ledge then following right-facing corner and short crack to top. Akimbo (HVS 5a) starts to the right of Razorbill, around an arête and follows steep open corner to roof which is awkwardly turned on the right, to finish up the middle of broken slabs above.

Sarclet, Hidden Bay
Access is as usual via abseil to a massive ledge extending north as far as Djapana Buttress, providing great views of the impressive arch. Hard of Herring (Severe 4b) (in the company of Greg Richard) starts at the right-hand base of the triangular pinnacle and climbs to the apex, then up and right under flakes to narrow chimney to top.

Sarclet
In the middle of the bay north of Tilted Ledge is a jutting headland, with a non-tidal ledge running along the southern edge of its base. Access by abseil. A tidal pool splits the ledge and its rear juts against the base of a wide cracked pillar. Graded Severe, Tug of the Tide sounds impressive and starts from a ledge at the base of chimney. Climb the left edge of the chimney via an overlap and pedestal to finish up slab. Kaleidoscope (HVS 5a). Staring directly below the prow of the headland this route climbs via a diamond shaped niched groove and crack to finish on right via blocky corner.

Oily Buttress
This small buttress has yielded a triptych of VS’s. The buttress sits at the north end of the entrance to Oily Geo, accessed by abseil to non-tidal ledge. All climbs start from the left end of this ledge. Cold Halo (4b) takes the shallow corner and big left trending flake. Fancy Dancing with the Fleas (4c) traverses left one metre to a flake, up a shallow left-facing corner then via arête to ledge, finishing by traversing across ledge to Cold Halo where a small roof and groove are tackled directly. Oiled Up (4b) makes a three metre traverse left to corner and then by a succession of small roofs, pulls onto an overhung slab, finishing by a further roofed corner.


Sunset Song, Glen Clova.
photo: Iain Small

Red Craigs, Central Crag
The steep wall to the right of The Empire of the Sun fell to Iain Small and Johnny Clark with Sunset Song (E5 6b).

SOUTH WEST
Dungeon of Buchan
The much eyed prominent crack line on the triangular wall situated at the top of the crag, 100m right of Cooran Gully fell to Andrew Fraser and Ian Magill earlier this year. Jailhouse Rock is HVS 4c,5a (best approached by abseil) and the top pitch in particular offers fine, sustained and delicate bridging in a great position.

Dumfries sea cliffs
The Lookout
Stephen Reid with Linda and John Biggar have climbed the Old Grey Wacke Test (VS 4c) which takes the main slab via overlap and thin crack near the left arête, while The Long and Winding Road (V Diff) climbs the main slab on its right edge, crosses the offwidth to a hanging slab and finishes up diagonal slab via cracks on right.

Craighoar (near Beattock) yielded a couple of worthwhile micro climbs with the Hoardinary Route (E1 5a) which essentially follows the left arête of Silence of the Ram, and starting on the right side of the crag, Hoar’s Draws (HVS 5a), emerges from the overhang via good spike then crack in the wall above (as for Crooked Brae).

BOULDERING NEWS
Glen Etive


Finest Starav granite. Jo George warming up on the Micron 2000 boulder, Glen Etive.
Photo: Cubby Images

Cubby has been developing two small granite boulders on the north shores of Loch Etive. Micron 2000 is the smaller of the two and is reached in ten minutes from the car park next to the old pier. The best approach is along the bouldery shore front which is drier than the track. As already suggested this is a small boulder but with sitting starts it has yielded a surprising number of excellent little problems, guaranteed to leave your fingers raw - all this in truly superb surroundings with grand views of Ben Starav. Silver Surfer, a classic rock over is a little gem and destined to become a micro classic at about Font 6b(ish), while Between Heaven and Hell, which is a right to left traverse (14 moves long) of the boulder’s west and north facets is simply exquisite and comes in at around Font 7b(ish). All in all there are about a dozen problems between Font 4+ to 7b, with just as many variations and all drying very quickly.


Cubby resting between attempts on Heaven and Hell, Micron 2000 boulder.
photo: Cubby Images

Another 10mins along the shores will reveal the bigger Storm Boulder which is slightly obscured by a tree. So far three or four good problems have been climbed here and once again all feature sit starts. A right to left traverse on the boulder’s south aspect (boulder at start out of bounds) via small ledge for hands and pink vein comes in at about Font 7a and is very good. The left arête provides a short good problem at about 6c and starting in the middle of the west face and then going via the left arête, provides another interesting problem at about Font 6b.

Glen Coe


Tom Lee safely through the initial bulge on Pub Crawl, Foxy Boulder.
photo: Cubby Images

Opposite the junction where the Clachaig road leaves the A82, and situated above the south-west corner off Loch Atriochtan some boulders can be seen. Jo George and Tom Lee have added several problems here, the best of the bunch being on Foxy Boulder which provides some good pre theatre entertainment (in this case the Clachaig!). Problems vary between Font 4 and 6c with Pub Crawl (Font 6c) destined to become a classic. From a sitting start this traverses the undercut right side of the boulder, through an easier middle section, with a crux reserved for the finishing moves where the boulder is once again undercut. The perfect cure for a hangover!

Here are a few bouldering pictures now that the bouldering season is well and truly upon us....


Mike Tweedley working on his own Precious (Font 7c) prior to its first ascent, Glen Croe.
photo: Cubby Images


Gorilla Direct, Dumbarton. In the background an iconic landscape soon to be replaced by yet another shopping mall!
photo: Cubby Images


Tim Rankin, the original Portlethen Terrier, on the Sea Pig.
photo: Cubby Images

SOUTH OF THE BORDER
In my last report I attempted to describe some of Julian Lines exploits on the Pembrokeshire Coast, information I have to add gleaned from a rather frantic telephone conversation while Jules was on a North Sea oil rig. Julian has sent me an amended update of the Blind Bay area, which if anything may prove to be useful for budding aficionados of deep water soloing and worth baring in mind these routes can be led conventionally and sound superb. For more details, reference should be made to the Pembrokeshire Climbers Guide.

Blind Bay

‘Kelpie the poodle’ 25m F5+ S2/3
The right arête of the box inlet, gained from a traverse from the ‘Beat surrender’ ledge. Start the arête straight on, veering slightly right and then back left. (climbing is easier on the right but more dangerous).
FSA: JL 31/8/05

‘White Fang’* 20m F6b+ XS 5c/6a S2
From the ‘Beat surrender’ ledge, take the left traverse to the arête, climb arête on the right past the white flake to a ledge. (S0/1 if finish by jumping), continue up corner on the right (5a).
FSA: JL 31/8/05

‘El Lobo’* 20m F6b+ XS 5c/6a S2
From the ‘Beat surrender’ ledge, move left to gain a wide crack, climb this and veer leftwards to gain a jug which leads left to the ledge on the previous route, either jump (S1) or continue up the corner (5a). The continuation seam looks desperate and maybe contrived to gain access to it!
FSA: JL 2/9/05

‘Aristocrat’* 20m F7a XS 6b S2/3
As for the original route, although it can be climbed to the half height ledge (crux) at S0, then traverse to the arête and down climb ‘Snobs’ (5b). The more serious upper wall is 5b/c.
FSA: JL 1/9/05

‘Toffee Nose’** 25m F7a XS 6a/b S2/3
Traverse right off the ‘Beat Surrender’ ledge to the sharp arête, climb the crux arête on the left side by precarious moves to gain the half height ledge (S0). Escape is possible by reversing ‘Snobs’. Continue via the upper arête (5c).
FSA: JL 30/8/05

‘Snobs’ * 30m F6a+ XS5b S2
Traverse right from the ‘Beat Surrender’ ledge, round the arête into the open book corner. Climb corner for 6m until a line of jugs lead left, then up to the arête. Traverse right and climb over two blocky overhangs to a yellow pillar. The finish is horrendously loose; best to use a pre placed knotted rope (graded for this).
FSA: JL 30/8/05

‘Blind Date’* 35m F6a+ XS5b S2
As described from the ‘Beat Surrender’ ledge, a pre placed knotted rope useful for topping out!
FSA: JL 5/9/05??

‘One eyed man’*** F6c+

‘The Abyss’ *** 60m F7b E6 6b S2
An astounding voyage of the deep, taking a line into the cave and then climbing through the roof, which looks like French 8a+ territory!
Start off the ‘Beat surrender’ ledge and follow the ‘One eyed man’ to its cracked-slab, resting ledge. (At spring tides it may be necessary to abseil onto this ledge from above). Drop down and traverse intricately into the cave, to gain a rest on a hanging slab. Move rightwards to gain a 45-degree overhanging offwidth, climb this and then move left and up very steeply to a lie down rest in a tunnel in the roof of the cave. Fall out of the hole in the roof and move swiftly leftwards on low undercuts to gain a huge thread at the lip of the cave (S1). Continue up the fine chimney crack to the top…getting high but only (5a)!
FSA: JL 11/9/05

All other routes start from the east side of the cave.

‘Deep water Alien’*** 50m F6c E4 5c, 5c, 5c S2/3
An outrageous adventure at an amenable grade, which can be finished without the fear factor of pitch 3!
1) F6b+
Step off shelf and traverse slab /wall leftwards into cave, bridge left and down across chimney to gain a wall, move left round the arête, and either make a hard low traverse (6a) across wall (not possible at spring tides) or a slightly higher and marginally easier traverse to gain the alien ledge. (S0/1)
2) F6b+
Move right on shelving holds, to under roof, take the traverse line out right, to finish just inside the cave. Escape can be made out right here (S1).
3) F6b+ ‘Alien world direct’
Step left and get established on the awkward seat, then pull up through the roof on big holds and traverse left across the lip into the deep corner, finish up this (S2/3)

FSA: Pitch 1) Andy Long and Crispin
Pitch 2 and 3) JL 1/9/05

‘The Anti Matterhorn’ *** 50m E6 6a,6a,6b S2
Another bewildering adventure!
1) F6c+
Traverse in as for the ‘Deep water Alien’ until you reach the arête, climb this and the roof above to the cave rest (S0/1).
2) F6c+
Traverse right under the roof for 5m, until some hard blind moves lead leftwards into a hanging corner and a perch in the cave (S1). Escape rightwards can be made here at F6b.
3) F7b? (NYS)
Spread eagle yourself in the apex of the roof and then somehow drop down onto the horn, before undercutting out towards daylight and the fine chimney crack to finish!

FSA: Pitch 1 and 2. JL 3/9/05
Pitch 3) Not yet soloed!!

‘Abduction’*** 45m F7a E5 6a,6a,6a S2
And another amazing piece of weirdness, threading its way through the cave with unbelievable positions… ooh err!!!!
1) F6c
Step off shelf and traverse into the back of the cave, once there move up and left onto the wall, traverse left across the wall to a roofed groove (Anti Matterhorn comes up from below), move up and left onto quartz shield and ledges (S0/1).
2) F7a
Step left onto a rib and climb it to a cave (careful of ledge below), Swing blindly rightwards into space to eventually land up at a rest in the upper cave (S1/2).
3) F6c+
Climb directly outwards along downward pointing roof, via a huge thread on the lip, where one can attain a double leg bar no hands rest, pull round the lip on good but hidden holds, then step right into a groove and continues up the easy wide crackline (S2).
FSA: JL 3/9/05

‘Gremlin Inside’* 20m F6b XS5b/c S1
Initially soloed from the back of the cave at low tide and at a much harder grade. But at high tide traverse into the back of the cave as per the previous routes, then climb up and swing back out right via the obvious traverse line in the roof.
F/A D.P

Mother Careys Kitchen

‘Bagpuss’** 15m F6c+ S0/1
A dry bag start may be necessary to attain the ledge at the base of ‘Tiger…Tiger’, follow tiger…tiger to where it starts to get hard, then traverse right onto the overhanging wall and move right to gain and climb a line of very steep flaky jugs, to reach a break littered with quartz crystals. …Now jump off to cool those pumped forearms!
FSA: JL 11/9/05

‘Crimson grotto’* 25m F6c S0
From the tiger…tiger ledge, move down and traverse right just in the barnacle zone (mid to high tide possible as long as they are not spring tides) to reach an extremely steep ships prow, once established above this (crux), move up to a rest in the roof of the cave. Crawl towards the back of the cave via a hanging shelf (hard for the tall), until the cave opens up. Behind you is a niche in the opposite wall of the cave, climb down and round to this. Jump in and swim out!!!!!
FSA: JL 12/9/05

That's all folks, I'm off to Spain now! For more Scottish news, new route and bouldering information visit: http://www.scottishclimbs.co.uk and http://www.stonecountry.co.uk

Cubby