It’s been a fantastic summer up here in the Scottish Highlands, with any unsettled weather being generally restricted to either the North, East or West but never really that widespread so as to hinder climbing. Sadly however there is very little to report as far as the mountains are concerned. “It seems to be a reflection of the times” commented Robin Clothier, custodian of the CIC hut on Ben Nevis. I’ve been on the Ben and in the Cairngorms quite a lot recently and I have to say that I was encouraged by the numbers of teams enjoying themselves on classic mountain routes between the grades of Diff and VS/HVS. But above that – well! Speaking selfishly, I love having the mountains to myself but in times like these, one cannot help wonder what the future of Scottish rock climbing will hold? New route activists have always been few and far between in Scotland and recent shift in focus towards clean Hebridean gneiss may provide at least one explanation for the recent inactivity on our mountain crags. History has an uncanny knack of repeating itself though and just when the future of our climbing appears to be all doom and gloom a new kid on the block emerges and bham – something exciting takes place. The old guard don’t always like it and this could not be truer for young (well youngish) Dave MacLeod who has once again proved himself as Scotland’s current leading light. This time Dave has been busy on the Ben so I might as well start my report on Britain’s highest mountain.


Dave MacLeod on the Ben's hardest yet - Anubis E8 6c, Comb Buttress.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

Ben Nevis
On Comb Buttress Dave has established a new line on the hitherto unclimbed ‘pyramid’ – the impressive triangular front face of the buttress overlooking Creag Coire na Ciste, by a hard new route named Anubis and weighing in at a hefty E8 6c. That’s a full two grades harder than Rick Campbell and Gary Latter’s excellent offering from last year – The Trajan E6 6b on Carn Dearg. The route follows an impressive undercut hanging prow towards the right side of the buttress left of Piggots Route and starts from that climbs slanting rake. The crux involves a powerful sequence through the initial roof and entails a committing 15 foot run out above two suspect cams that could potentially leave a leader dangerously close to the ground should they fail to hold a fall. It is worth mentioning that the Comb is no roadside crag and Dave had to endure some adventurous preparation. Those of you accustomed to doing first ascents in the Scottish mountains will appreciate the hard work involved and Dave’s route is no exception. A roped solo ascent of Piggots was made to access the line which required cleaning but was not practised. Two trips were made and the route was flashed on an unseasonable but not untypical bitterly cold day.

Suitably pleased with his new route, Dave has started something of a Nevis campaign so watch this space for any future developments.


Dave MacLeod having just made the crux moves on Anubis
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

North West
Fuar Tholl - Coire Earba – Sonny Wall.
This south east facing crag is situated just off the Fuar Tholl track from Achnashellach station. Two lines have been climbed on the main wall left of the heather filled corner and were the work of Ross Jones and Carlos Las Heras. Transoceanic Chicken (HVS 5a, 15m) takes a shallow groove crack on left side of wall. Starting 3m left of heather corner Sonny Jack (HVS 4c, 15m) takes small overhang above stepped groove then by groove on left to top.

Carn Eite.
Whispering Buttress is the prominent south-west facing buttress on the right of the path and contains three routes. The Custodian (E1 5a, 35m) is a poorly protected line up the ramp and crack on left, A Dog Named Corrie (Severe 4a, 35m) takes the broken groove at the biggest section of the buttress, while Society of Whispers (E2 5b/c, 40m – see photo in July report) takes the most prominent corner/groove 5m right of the above route, courtesy of the above pair.

STRATHFARRAR
Sgurr na Muice.
Andy Nisbet has been developing an area of slabs on the South East Face, which features a large easy angled slab on the left, oval in shape and contains two climbs. Pas de Bas (Severe 4a, 75m) starts at the lowest point of slab, gains a corner on right via smooth section and then tackles large overlap on good quartz holds. Pousette (VDiff, 85m), climbs a shallow rib and clean slabs always right of the previous route to overlap which is taken on right via huge block and brown slab.

The main slabs have yielded another two routes; Schistomania (VS 4c, 4a, 100m) takes the first, broadest and best sheet of slab, requiring some friction moves near the start, then goes left via groove to centre of big overlap. A steeper, juggy slab above provides an excellent second pitch. Dancing on Bawbees (HVS 4b, 4c, 125m) follows a clean, sustained line right of previous route to juniper ledge, then by a grove and steeper slab avoiding perched block on the right.

Ardmair
Ian Taylor and Tess Fryer have added a bold and deceptively steep route climbing the pillar at the right end of Arapiles Wall to give Maralinga (E5 6a and headpointed). Ian points out that the impressive prow on Rhue - Rhue Rhapsody is a much better climb than the guidebook suggests -“one of the best routes in the North West - a wild trip and certainly three stars”. However as it overhangs the sea, finding it dry might be a problem.

In my last report I mentioned some sport climbing development on Crag X, somewhere south of Ullapool. Well the crag is still X rated but Lawrence Hughes has added a companion route left of is previous 7c at a similar grade with the crux low down. One of these days we’ll find out the location of Crag X!

Skye

Julian Lines all alone on the crux of his new link-up on the East Buttress of Stron na Ciche, Skye.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

Over the sea to Skye now where Julian Lines has completed a superb link up on the East Buttress of Stron na Ciche in Coire Laggan. Climbing solo, Jules started up the initial crack of Dilemma and where that route goes up and right, a crucial (crux) toe-tapping right to left slanting crack connects up with Uhuru, which is then followed to the top. Although there is very little in the way of new ground, for someone operating at about E3 this combination must offer one of the best pitches on Skye.

Hebrides


New route prospecting on the Lewis sea cliffs - Chris Anderson climbing.
Photo: copyright Rab Anderson

On the Isle of Lewis, Rab and Chris Anderson have made their annual pilgrimage and over a period of two weeks in early July some 24 routes were added to the Mungersta sea cliffs. Mark Garthwaite also contributed to their tally and they were later joined by Bernard and Jan Newman. Grades range from VDiff to E5 and new routes were climbed on Rubh’an Taroin, Rubha Geodh an’t Slaucian, Rubha Thisgeis, Geodha Caol and Bassets Buttress. Despite the heat wave that was enjoyed by the rest of the country, the weather was not particularly kind for their stay. However, they were more than rewarded with flat calm seas (a rarity in these parts) and sightings of orca’s, basking sharks and dolphins.


New route prospecting on the Lewis sea cliffs - climber Mark Garthwaite.
Photo: copyright Rab Anderson

North East
Over on the Caithness coast, Rab and Chris Anderson have added a few routes to Latheron Wheel whilst doing some guidebook work for the forthcoming SMC Scottish Rock Climbs guide. They climbed the wall right of Pippet at The Post to give a fine E1 called Imperial Leather. The crack right of this gave them Light Work (HVS 5a) and to the right of Freakers Crack they squeezed in Fulmar Breeks (E2 5b). Over on The Big Flat Wall they climbed Gervasutti’s Eliminate (E2 5b), which was just to the left of Gervasutti’s Crack. For those operating between Severe and HVS (and above), and looking for somewhere different, Rab and Chris found Latheron Wheel to be very pleasant and well worth the long trip. A big easterly swell preventing them from ticking the classic, Sarclet Pimpernel at Sarclet.

Cairngorms
Andy Nisbet has been busy checking for the forthcoming SMC Cairngorm guide and has added some bibs and bobs here and there. In Coire Bhrochain on Braeriach Molar (Severe 4a, 80m) takes the impressive though slightly artificial line up the leftmost ridge on the West Buttress. On Creagan a Coire Etchechan, Dave Cuthbertson and Jo George climbed the prominent brown corner (often wet) and no doubt previously climbed) directly above the grassy bay where Djbanji goes out left at the start and makes for a logical, good first pitch to that route at VS 4c.


Jo George on the serious top pitch of Talisman (HS 4a), Creagan a Coire Etchachan during this summer's heatwave.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

Shetland
In early June a strong English team including Adam Long, Adam Wainwright, Andy Cave, Ben Bransby and Pete Robbins visited this area where they managed to climb a respectable number of first ascents.

Esha Ness Lighthouse
Living the Dream (E3 5c, 30m) climbs the chimney immediately right of Lost for Words (climbed last year by A Cave), courtesy of Wainwright and Cave. Aero Arete (HVS 4c, 30m) takes the attractive yet bold, juggy arête mid way between Black Watch and Team Specsavers – Long, Robbins and Bransby. The next major zawn to the south of Black Watch features a large 30m north-facing wall with an arching roof at two thirds height. Team Specsavers (E5 6a, 30m), climbed by Robbins and Bransby takes the centre of the wall via a crack with a crux through the roof.

Papa Stour
The same team spent five days on this island but they found most of its cliff-girt coast to be either too loose or dirty. However, they did find some awesome caves and good cliff on the north-west coast of Boardie Head where there is some hardened red sandstone just west of Redbeards through cave. Three routes were climbed here and start from a raised narrow ledge as the cliff rises in height. The Forewick Stud (E5 6a, 25m) is the HVS looking line as one gains the upper ledge, climbed by Robbins and Bransby. Holy Shit! (E5 6a and low in its grade) takes a steep line in the middle of the wall, climbed by Bransby, Long, Robbins and Cave. Papa Don’t Preach (E5 5c/6a – also low in its grade, 35m) and climbed by Robbins and Bransby is described as “an amazing route in a wild position” taking a soaring hidden slabby corner.

The Nose Tirls of Nort Lungie Geo
Deeper Darker (E5 6a, 30m), is described as a very traditional and enjoyable outing which climbs out of a huge and complex cave /geo to the south of Kirsten Hole courtesy of Cave and Bransby.

Unst
On the north-east tip of this small headland of granite (previously occupied by the MOD), a nice little crag characterized by an obvious finger crack provided Robbins and Bransby with The Most Northerly Route in Britain. A bold start followed by surprisingly awkward and strenuous climbing fully justifying its E5 6b grade.

Back on Papa Stour, Simon Calvin, (the island teacher on Papa Stour) has been busy working on one area of the island called Breigeo Head. Circumstances have dictated the use of a shunt on all the following climbs.
Breigo Head
The most southerly of three geos provides four routes between VDiff and VS and 10m long. Approach is down landward side of north-facing wall to ledges with double barrel cave at back of geo. Knife Edge Groove (VDiff) – groove on right side of wall. Irish R n R (Severe) – flakes just to left. Mamas and Papas (Severe) – fine crack at right side of wall. Papa Smirf (VS 4c) start up previous route and branch right up wall.

Perched Block Crag
This is the most northerly of the geos, characterized by a big block hanging above back of geo – approach by abseil. Seven routes have been climbed here, ranging between Severe and HVS with Push Me Pull Me (Severe), the big corner groove at seaward end of crag providing “lovely climbing with good protection”. Of the others Foula Doon (VS 4b) and The Prow (HVS 5b) stand out.

Ross Jones, climbing mainly with John Sanders, has also been busy on Shetland. Please note, rather than dropping Ross’s climbs in chronological order by area, I have retained his information as a separate report.

Muckle Row
Pict Ness, Walls of Troll.
The spectacular red granite cliffs on the west coast of Muckle Row mainly consisits of poor quality rock. The Walls of Troll however provide some good lines on weathered granite and an igneous plug in a sheltered geo. Eight routes ranging in difficulty between Diff and HVS were climbed in this area, the best of which include The Troll Catcher – a larger than fist sized jam crack at H Severe 4b! (Friend 4 & 5 useful), and Troll Wall (HVS 5a), which is said to offer some good balance climbing.

Ness of Hamar
The coast around Riva Geo, Red Head and along to Silvi Geo provide a range of climbs up to 20m which are being developed by local climbers. The following routes had not been attempted previously.
Medusa Wall
Snake Face (VS 4b, 50m), climbs centre of wall to the left of descent beach via broken crack then face direct. The Gorgan (E1 5b, 20m), takes undercut crack 15m right of previous route via an overhanging corner. Medusa (HVS 5a, 20m) starts 2m right of Gorgan to climb crack.


Ross Jones on the first ascent of Medusa (HVS 5a), Ness of Hamar, Shetland.
Photo: copyright John Sanders

Dragon Geo
Taming The Dragon (E2 5c, 20m), the corner crack with an awkward crux at top.

Esha Ness
Goblin Cleaver (E2 5c, 40m) climbs a three star curving crack line on an overhanging left-facing corner system in the north-west wall below the lighthouse. The route is approached by abseil and is said to be very different in character compared to other climbs near by. Aisha (E1 5a, 35m) climbed with John McClenaghan climbs the centre of the wall right of Atlantic Sea is said to be bold but never strenuous.

THE FAITHER
This is the most northerly point of land to the west of Ronas Voe.
Faithers Stack
This fine hidden stack is accessed by a fifty metre free abseil from the cliff top north west of the stack to a wave-washed platform, followed by a dash to the stack across a channel. (100m rope required for spaced anchors). Three Hard Severes and a VS were added to the north east face. By far the best sounding route is Cheshire Cat (VS 4c) and gets four stars. It climbs the centre of the face via a small left facing corner, then by a wall and crack above. Where this peters out, a shallow groove on the left leads to the top.

Arched Wall
Two further routes were added to the wall opposite the stack which has been called Arched Wall. Memory Games is a one star VS 4b, two pitches and 55m long, while Sea of Change (HVS 5a) gets three stars and provides a 40m single pitch. Paul Witworth joined Jones and Sanders for Memory Games, while Sanders opted out on the ascent of the latter.

PAPA STOUR
Kirsten Stacks
Two fine 20m stacks guard the entrance to Kirsten Hole and are separated in places by only 10cm. Abseil from stakes to a tidal corner directly north of the stacks and swim to the platform on the west end of the west stack. The second then relocates the abseil to a block opposite the stack to arrange a 40m abseil/tyrolean (100m rope required). The Guardian (VDiff 15m) climbs the west arête of the stack directly and was climbed by Jones, Sanders and Calvin.


A beautiful day for Ross Jones on the first ascent of Building Blocks on a Rockin Top (VS 4b), Westerwick, Shetland.
Photo: copyright John Sanders

WESTERWICK
Two Towers Stack
Two distinct towers which are separate in only the largest of seas. Approach by abseil opposite the stack and swim a seven metre channel and set up a 50m abseil tyrolean on the connecting platform between the stacks which provides a jumar retreat. West Tower – Building Blocks on a Rockin Top (VS 4b, 15m), climbs the south west arete on good rock, steps right and up corner to top, climbed by Jones, Sanders and Witworth. East Tower – Climbing with a Porpoise (Hard Severe 4a, 15m), the stepped wall between the towers gains a corner, climb wall on right to top. Corner direct is 4c.
Please note that much of this information has been considerably edited. For more details on approaches and full descriptions, reference should be made to the New Climbs pages of the SMC Journal, or contact the first ascentionists direct.

Cubby.

p/s Apologies if I’ve missed your finest hour! Please send new routes and news worthy info to me at info@cubbyimages.co.uk And remember, for any photos published in this report we will send on a copy of the Cubby Images 2006 Climbing Calendar!

For more news on Scottish climbing and bouldering check out http://www.scottishclimbs.com and http://www.stonecountry.co.uk