Well what can I say? Just when the winter started to exhibit all the signs of yet another fickle, disappointing season, it has undoubtedly developed into the best of the new millennium.


Rab Anderson starting pitch 2, White Shark (IV,4), Aonach Mor. A popular route this winter.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images


Alan Hinkes exiting White Shark, end of Feb.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

With high pressure dominating out to the north-west, conditions, although relatively lean, have been reminiscent of the mid eighties. This has resulted in a definite east/west divide over the last three weeks, with the east side of the country receiving large deposits of snow. Unfortunately the weather has been poor there rendering climbing problematic, especially in the northern Cairngorms. The story couldn’t be more different in the west, where it has remained cold and dry with just enough light falls of snow to hold things together, especially on the Ben, Aonach Mor/Beag and high up in Glen Coe. But really the area could do with more snow and a thaw/freeze. I suppose we can’t complain! Further south, the Orchy hills have been good and icy but the lack of snow is beginning to tell. There’s plenty of largely unconsolidated snow in the central Highlands and on Creag Meagaidh but recently conditions have at last started to improve on Meagaidh. The majority of major venues in the north west also received some substantial snow falls ensuring reasonable conditions for mixed and snow and ice, from Beinn Bhan through to the Torridon hills and Beinn Dearg, but as I write last week’s thaw on Wednesday and Thursday has taken its toll.

The big freeze and all this snow could not have been more timely for the start of the International Winter Meet, but more about that later.

In the interim between my last report and the start of the Meet, there has not been a great deal to report. The most significant news has taken place in the Cairngorms where non other than Dave MacLeod dispensed with the first winter ascent of The Hurting at XI,11 (about M9+) on the Fiachaill of Coire an t’Sneachda.


Dave MacLeod on his recent test piece, The Hurting, (XI,11), Coire an t'Sneachda, Cairngorms.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

In contrast to Dave’s test piece from last season (The Cathedral), The Hurting epitomises cutting edge Scottish mixed, being well and truly plastered and typically, it was blowing a hooly on the big day. The line was inspected but not top-roped or practised and protection was placed on the lead. Dave points out that pegs were not used, an ethic he feels quite strongly about on established climbs that were originally done without their use. Success however was achieved only after Dave took a whipper from the last move on a previous attempt. As a single pitch climb it remains to be seen whether or not The Hurting will stand alone as a contender for one of the hardest of its type in world trad mixed. Time will tell but there’s no doubt that this is a hard and serious route, and in a different league by comparison to well-protected test pieces. For Dave personally this climb is a culminating point in his career as a winter climber, it is an expression of all the experiences he has gained by excelling in the different facets of climbing. He points out that because of The Hurting’s serious nature, being an M12 dry-tooler or a Scottish ‘hardman’ isn’t good enough on its own.

On Bidean in Glen Coe, Rab Anderson and Rob Milne climbed a new route on Diamond Buttress. This is a fine area that has been much neglected in recent years. Starting up a ramp that runs up left from the entrance to the left branch of Central Gully, the pair then followed a corner leading to the right end of the girdling ledge, where grooves on the right lead to a chimney and easier ground. The route is called Koh-I-Noor, 185m, V,7 and was climbed on the 20th Feb. The same pair returned on the 26th Feb and this time on Church Door Buttress they climbed Flake Route Right-hand, 190m V,7. This takes the chimney up the right side of the huge flake of Flake Route, gained directly up stepped corners from the start of the right branch of Central Gully, finishing up Flake Route.


The classic West Chimney Route, Church Door Buttress, Bidean, Glen Coe has deservedly proved popular this year.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

Back on The Diamond, Kenny Grant, Alan Halewood and Jane Humphries made an ascent of Direct Route, inadvertently, adding a more direct start in the process – easily done on this part of the buttress and has possibly been climbed before but worthy of VI,6 (or harder) nevertheless.


On the first ascent of Poco Loco Direct, Church Door Buttress, Glen Coe (see last month's report for more details).
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

In the North West on Beinn Bhan, Chris Dale soloed Silver Tear. Mad Hatters received ascents, as did Poachers and Salmon Leap on Liathach, and West Buttress Directisima on Beinn Eighe. Guy Robertson and Es Tresidder also made an ascent of West Buttress Directisima continuing in the full line of Senior, instead of traversing left half way up. It was described by Es as a “really awesome route” with no change in the grade, just more sustained! As a preamble to the start of the Winter Meet, hosts Chris Cartwright and Simon Richardson visited Creag Coire na Ciste on the Ben and climbed a steep corner line between South Sea Bubble and South Gully. Unnamed and graded VII,7, Simon commented that it did not compare in terms of quality to the other routes that he had climbed on this part of the Ben.

International Winter Meet – a brief overview
The recent big freeze and impressive quantities of snow could not have been more timely for the International Winter Meet held at Glenmore Lodge between Feb 27th and March 5th. This is the fourth Winter Meet, the last was in 2001 and was fraught with the Foot and Mouth epidemic. A lack of funding has been the main reason behind their absence in recent years. Given the lean winters, perhaps it has been a blessing in disguise! Around forty or so guests represented twenty one countries, including Argentina, the Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovenia, South Africa, Sweden, USA and Yugoslavia. Experience and ability varied enormously from near beginner to world-class all-rounders. The week commenced on Sunday evening with the usual formalities by representatives of the BMC, MCofS and Glenmore Lodge. This was followed by an inspirational slide presentation by leading winter activist, Simon Richardson.

One of the most endearing features of these Meet’s, is a sense of camaraderie that evolves, a chemistry between developing partnerships and a competitive spirit that is guaranteed to inspire great things at every level. This week proved to be no exception. Guests and hosts partnered up for the first couple of days, with the majority of hosts doing their bit to ensure that both the less experienced and the more seasoned mountaineers had a good time. The biggest problem, as far as the east was concerned was the bad weather and copious amounts of snow. But rumours of parties having previously been into the Message Potage (in the Gorms), and “hoovered” various lines, the choice of venue was easily decided!


Graeme Ettle leads the Romanian guests up Pottage Hybrid (IV,6), Northern Coires, Cairngorms
Photo: copyright Cubby Images


Graeme Ettle ‘enjoying’ full conditions on Pottage Hybrid.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

Despite the poor weather, the more experienced headed over the back to Carn Etchachan where Ian Parnell and American guests, Steve House and Kelly Cordes did Time Traveller (VII,7). A host and one of the Czech’s did White Magic (VI,7). Chris Cartwright finally discovered where he was in the mist and did Fingers Ridge with his two guests, while Rob Milne and did Simon Richardson ascended the Honey Pot with their respective guests. Es Tresidder with Martin Prechtl of Germany and Jari Matsinen of Finland did The Seam. Sam Chinnery donned his adventurous cap and encouraged through leads on Pottage Hybrid with a Dutch duo, resulting in some air time! Everyone experienced a full on Scottish day. For some, such as the Romanians, Mircea and Claudiu (taken up Pottage Hybrid by Graeme Ettle), the experience was something of a baptism of fire, but seeing their beaming faces at the end of the day, they clearly loved every minute of it!


Mircea (from Romania) lovin it!
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

By day two some strong partnerships had already forged. The weather and conditions were still best in the west so the majority bundled into a Lodge van and headed for the Ben, while the remainder stayed behind and braved Cairngorm blizzards. Dave Hesleden teamed up with Bruno Sourzac of France and battled copious amounts of hoar and some ice on Cornucopia (VII,8 – on the day). Ian Parnell and Cordes were apparently very vocal on the second ascent of Arthur, which they confirmed at around VIII,8. Ian Small and the only female guest, Tina Di Batista from Slovenia, climbed Gemini in very sporting conditions (VI,6), as was The Shield Direct (VII,7, the first pitch certainly being harder on the day) by Chinnery and House.


Gemini (VI,6) Ben Nevis
Photo: copyright (and with thanks) Gareth Hughes

Undeterred by the lean conditions on pitch one, the challenged American, pulled out all the stops to cause a few heart stopping moments, commented a suitably impressed Chinnery. Worthy of note here is an unreported second ascent of The Shield Direct by John Sylvester and Alan Hinkes in 1986. Hinkes said that they followed the actual summer line of the true Shield Direct, which I would assume still awaits a second ascent. The BMC’s very own National Officer, Dave Turnbull, proved his worth on Route 1 Direct (VI,6), partnered by Lars-ole Gudevang of Norway. Also enjoyed that day was Orion Direct in sporting conditions and Hadrians Direct, while Graeme Ettle and Dave Hollinger lead their respective teams from Romania and Israel, amidst a frenzy of spindrift on The Curtain.


Host, Dave Hollinger "amidst a frenzy of spindrift" on The Curtain, (IV,5), Ben Nevis
Photo: copyright Cubby Images


Romanian guest, Claudiu seconding The Curtain
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

As one would expect the language barrier and consequential misunderstanding between hosts and guests inevitably resulted in a few exciting moments. Lobs were reported on the smear of Gemini (a very exposed place) and on the crux corner of Pottage Hybrid. But the undisputed highlight of the week, which gave everyone a real scare occurred when a British host and a Czech failed to report back after doing Western Grooves (V,5) on the Shelterstone. I think we all feared the worst when they didn’t show up after spending a second night out in blizzard conditions and especially with a high avalanche risk forecasted. A full scale search was executed and on the Thursday morning the pair were eventually found – alive and well - much to everyone’s relief. Not wanting to go down the line of being over protective, these Meets do beg a question of safety and one wonders if a GPS should be carried by anyone venturing into remote areas in dubious weather.

Elsewhere on the Tuesday, Tresidder visited Beinn Eighe with the young Slovian, Primos Hostnik, who is a good sport mixed climber and accomplished alpinist. Es thought he’d introduce him to hard Scottish mixed by abseiling into Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears (VIII,8) just as a white-out cleared! On the walk-in, Hostnik admitted that he had never used a compass to find a crag before! The day turned into a full-on fight for the pair. Es comments that he’d never climbed such a hard route in such nasty weather – high winds and blizzarding most of the day – “awesome day out!” On the Wednesday, the fast and furious pace continued, however many of the guests and hosts spent their rest day searching for their lost friends! Unaware of the situation, others headed north. Hesleden and Sourzac made an early ascent of Snoopy (VII,8), on Mainreachen Buttress on Fuar Tholl. This also received an ascent by Chinnery and House later in the week. Meanwhile on the Ben, more ascents were made of Orion Direct, Point Five, Zero, Boomers Requiem, Route 1 Direct, Gemini and Cornucopia. The Good Groove (VII,7), received it’s second ascent by Stan Holstead and John Kuczbra of Poland who eliminated the point of aid used on the first ascent. They were full of praise for the quality of the climb and its bold nature but did not feel qualified to comment on the grade! A cluster of routes were also ascended on Aonach Mor.


Hosts Dave Hollinger and Graeme Ettle stop for a break with Israeli and Romanian guests st the CIC hut, Ben Nevis - little do they know what a rare treat it is to find themselves in the CIC!
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

In no particular order, over the remainder of the week other routes climbed include Emerald Gully on Beinn Dearg, Central Buttress on Beinn Eighe, The Snotter on Liathach and Wee Team Gully in the Central Highlands. In the Gorms, Savage Slit, Fallout Corner and Stirling Bomber were all climbed. Steve Ashworth and Eric Svab of Italy did Postern Direct on the Shelterstone. On Meagaidh, Smiths Gully was climbed. A few ripe plums were also picked and perhaps the two most outstanding were on Creag Meagaidh where Hesleden and Sourzac succeeded in climbing the much fancied wall to the left of Fly Direct at VIII,8 with Extasy.


On the first ascent of Extasy, (VIII,8), Creag Meagaidh
Photo: copyright (and with thanks) Dave Hesleden

This provided seven pitches of sustained and often run-out climbing, finishing up the obvious continuation to The Fly Direct (where that route goes right to climb the ice fall). And if it’s any consolation, the belays are said to be good! Hesleden himself had climbed the first pitch some years back, and rather incredulously I witnessed a party in the mid eighties climbing the first pitch who thought they were doing Smiths. Logical, given that they had previously climbed Smiths thinking it was Ritchies! Not to be outdone, Guy Robertson, Tresidder and Hostnik shared leads on the icy inset corners to the right of Smiths, which gave a superb route called Eye Candy (VII,7), or solid V depending whether you speak to Guy or Es!


Primoz Hostnik leading pitch two on the first ascent of Eye Candy, (VII,7), Creag Meagaidh
Photo: copyright (and with thanks) Guy Robertson

On Slioch, Simon Richardson and Roger Webb, who is something of an aficionado of this mountain, endured an 18 hour day after climbing a big route on the Atlantic Wall at VI,6.
Chinnery and House climbed cracks in the prow right of Dark Mass on Church Door Buttress in Glen Coe, having started up to the right of West Chimney. No details as yet but graded VII,8. And finally on the Ben, Simon Richardson teamed up with Kelly Cordes of the USA to make the first ascent of the obvious crack that cleaves a line through the headwall of The Castle (VII,8), unnamed as yet. A 60m icy groove leads to the main difficulties which are concentrated in two excellent chimney crack pitches on the headwall. Kelly’s remark that it was worth coming all the way for that one route alone sums up what was for everyone a hugely successful week’s climbing.

It is only through the generous support of the BMC, who emptied their coffers of some £12,000 to cover the costs of the Meet and make it possible. So special thanks goes to them, not to mention the MCofS, Glenmore Lodge and last but not least, the Highland Regional Council, who supplied beer money for the end of Meet party. Let’s hope that someone out there is willing to provide financial support in the future to ensure that the global reputation Scottish winter climbing deservedly enjoys, continues to flourish and inspire climbers in other parts of the world.

Please note that this is not a comprehensive list of climbs accomplished on the Meet and is designed only to capture a flavour of the week’s activities. No doubt there will be a few mistakes and sadly some omissions too. For more details, please visit the MCofS or BMC websites.

Out with the Meet, Scott Muir and Dave MacLeod have been busy on Beinn Udlaidh where they have climbed the thin seam through the wall and roof to gain a short hanging stalactite right of the main Cut Throat icicle to give Fontinalia, VIII,9. The route was climbed ground up and lead by both climbers. Dave endured a lot of very hard work placing pegs for protection and got within three moves of the icicle on-sight but ran out of daylight before reversing. When he returned with Scott, Scott went first but fell below Dave’s high point, stopping a foot from the belay ledge. It was a lucky escape since the peg that held him came out by hand when he went back up! After placing another peg, Scott got it next go and Dave on-sighted the route immediately after.

Back on the Ben, there has been another ascent of Cornucopia, this time by Ben Wilkinson and Stuart MacDonald and an ascent of Darth Vader by Graeme Ettle and Spider MacKenzie.


Graeme Ettle on Darth Vader (VII,7), Ben Nevis
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

Julian Lines in typically charismatic style, soloed Mega Route X. On Creag Meagaidh, Pinnacle Buttress Direct was climbed last week, although I was up there on Monday 14th March and it had obviously collapsed. Spider MacKenzie soloed North Post Direct, which he said was in excellent condition. Postman Pat had ice running all the way down its crux wall but no ascents have been reported. On Monday, March 14th, prior to the approaching big thaw, Guy Robertson and Es Tresidder started out in glorious weather on Creag Meagaidh to attempt the big, unclimbed area of complex grooves between Fly Direct and The Midge. Starting up the obvious left-facing hooded corner to the right of The Fly, which provided some varied, technical mixed climbing, the pair then continued fairly directly to join The Midge. Where that route goes left, a big direct pitch was climbed in deteriorating weather. And by contrast to the lower section the snow conditions were reportedly appalling at that height. With darkness approaching and worsening weather, they were forced slightly rightwards, thus avoiding an obvious finishing groove. Nevertheless - a worthy addition to this impressive part of Meagaidh. Given their nocturnal experience, Guy suggests The Moth (VII,8) as a suitable route name.


Es Tresidder on the crux pitch of The Moth during the first ascent.
Photo: copyright Cubby Images

On Meall Garbh in the Monadhliadh, Iain Small has added a couple of V,6’s. An earlier visit (with Susan Jensen) resulted in a good turfy route that cuts across Left Edge Route to climb a groove left of the obvious detached flake. On Saturday the 12th March, Iain returned with Jason Walker to climb another V,6, which is situated to the left of Inspiration.
And some late news sent in by Gareth Hughes – in Garbh Coire Mor, Coilleachan in the Fannichs, Eric Brunskill and Gareth climbed Prohibition (VI,5) on the 6th March. Starting thirty feet left of Sarsaparilla, a faint, very steep S-shaped, turfy groove was followed and only Bulldogs for protection!

Apologies if we’ve omitted your finest hour(s)!
Cubby

Also check out these sites:
Geoff Monks - for accurate mountain weather forecasts, visit http://www.mwis.org.uk
Abacus Mountaineering - local Fort William Guide, Mike Pescod provides regular winter condition reports throughout the winter, visit http://www.abacusmountaineering.com
West Coast Mountain Guides - another local Guide, Alan Kimber also provides regular winter condition reports throughout the winter, visit http://westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/conditions.htm
Scottish Avalanche Information Service - for the latest avalanche reports and snow conditions, visit http://www.sais.gov.uk