At last I have a period of good weather to report, and dare I say some routes of substance. Since the New Year it has very much been a case of west is best. Commencing on the weekend of January the 22nd, and covering a period extending towards the end of that month, was for the majority the highlight of the winter so far. The Ben, Aonach Mor and Aoanch Beag were particularly icy with many of the rapid forming classics seeing ascents – the Point, Smiths, Hadrians and Royal Pardon on Aonach Beag. On Aonach Mor, ice was plentiful and many parties enjoyed the reliable ice holding lines (and those that aren’t), such as Tinsel Town, Typhoon, White Shark and Jet Stream etc., all of which were thought to be roughly similar in grade i.e. classic IV/V, although a little bit serious. Creag Meagaidh was reported to have been very icy and at one point the Fly Direct looking good. I doubt if anyone was aware of it though! The same can’t be said for the Coe despite many buttress routes being climbed in rather lean conditions – nothing new in that department! More recently however, conditions have improved for mixed climbing. In the North West conditions have been fickle, although in the Torridon area, Spider MacKenzie soloed West Buttress on Beinn Eighe in Coire Mhic Fearchair. Surprised at the volume of snow, Spider returned for an ascent of Central Buttress on Monday the 24th January. No newcomer to the winter scene, Spider expressed some surprise at the complexity and sustained nature of the climb, not to mention its infamous crux finale.

So what’s new? On Ben Nevis, Friday the 28th January, Andy Nisbet and Jonathan Preston climbed a version of The Rattler on South Trident Buttress. They were pleasantly surprised to discover that every ledge had snow ice on it, “so it was a bit scary but great climbing at V,5”. Two days later the same pair headed for the An Ghaidh Garbh face of Aonach Beag to climb the buttress right of Goblet of Fire to give The Prisoner, V,5. Andy comments, “it looked a bit steep and smooth from below but turned out to be unexpectedly helpful - always makes the route more satisfying”.

Back on the Ben, the much fancied line to the right of Darth Vader fell to the Richardson/Cartwright team. This is a route that the pair had been eyeing up since 1997 but it’s very steep and doesn’t always catch snow. Conditions on Sunday (Feb 6th) were perfect with the route white from Saturday’s snow storms and neve on all the ledges. The climb is said to be strenuous and very sustained with a bold crux section. Unnamed as yet, the route doubtless warrants it’s grade of VIII,7. On Ben Alder Richardson and Cartwright climbed the pillar right of Ice Maiden at V,5 – no details as yet but a very good sounding route.

As mentioned earlier, conditions have been fickle in the North West and as ever close scrutiny of the weather and local knowledge have played an important part in decision making. Once again, Guy Robertson has managed to pull it off, this time on Beinn Dearg where he nipped in to successfully climb, with Alistair Robertson, the much eyed line to the left of Ice Bomb (I say nipped but this approach takes 3-4 hours!), to give Final Destination, 130m VIII,7 - climbed on the 23rd of January. Guy sends in this report:
“Attached are details of a new route climbed last Sunday – hurrah, at last! A wonderful and memorable day, but the sort that ‘raised questions’ if you know what I mean. The route’s named after a series of cult horror movies, the premise of which is that ‘Death is all around us, watching us, with his own Grand Plan!” This seemed apt, after both a horrendous bush whack to outflank the 100 sq metres or so of Inverlael forest that’s been blown down over the approach track, and Alistair’s blood-curdling 50 footer on the second pitch when a tuft ripped! Thank God I don’t have to go there again!”


....at last, approaching the foot of Beinn Dearg
Photo: with thanks to Guy Robertson

The high winds and fresh snow during the weekends of the 5th/6th and 12th/13th of Feb finally settled and gave way to some excellent mixed climbing conditions in Glen Coe. On Church Door Buttress, Es Tresidder set out with the intention of climbing Un Poco Loco (no known second ascent). This route is based on the upper section of Crack Line which was climbed by Andy Cave and Mal Duff some years back. Following the initial section of Un Poco, it would seem that Es then took a more direct line to breech the centre of the arch by a spectacular through-route. The pitch was described as superb with the grade settling at hard VII,7.

In Stob Coire, Pete Benson and Guy Robertson tidied up a few confusing loose ends regarding East Face Route and it’s numerous variants and use of aid to give East Face Direct, 120m VII,8. Following the first two pitches of East Face Route (thought to be substantially harder than the V,7 grade in the current guide, although it should be borne in mind that the first ascent was made on ice). Pitch three continues straight up a chimney, over a formidable overhang and belays at 20 metres. On pitch four, 25 metres of easier turfy grooves gain a snow ramp leading to the base of a corner crack. Pitch five, 35 metres, climbs the spectacular corner crack to a tiny col behind a striking rock pinnacle, followed by a shallow bridging chimney to the top. The pair described the route as an outstanding icy mixed climb and the first complete free ascent, and certainly one of the best of its type in Scotland.


Guy Robertson following pitch 1 on East Face Direct.
Photo: with thanks to Pete Benson


Pete Benson on pitch 1 of East Face Direct .... "it’s certainly up there with the best. I’d compare it to the likes of Blood, Sweat & Frozen Tears on Beinn Eighe (a bit easier). Pete reckoned it was a deal harder than Central Grooves, and easily as good".
Photo: with thanks to Pete Benson

Exasperated by the early unsettled Scottish weather, Scott Muir departed for the continent where he continues his quest to repeat the latest dry-tooling test pieces. In his wake however, Scott has once again courted controversy and left tongues waggling within the old guard. On Beinn Udlaidh he has bolted two line, one of which he has climbed to give Crossroads – graded M6. This has been repeated by Dave MacLeod and another ascent by Kevin Shields. The routes are located on the short leaning wall which is passed on the approach to the Organ Pipe area, and it is there proximity to the established classics that appears to have given rise to the greatest upset. Forever positive, Dave MacLeod commented that “it is a good wee route and worthwhile when the main coire is out of condition”. It is worth noting that Dave has been at the forefront of Beinn Udlaidh developments in recent years and is something of a devotee in the area. Curiously, Dave had tried Crossroads some years back as a traditional line, but due to the line’s insignificance, he never felt inspired to return. Bolted however, he commented that it was definitely worth while, about V,7 and perfect for those who want to progress their technique without getting too committed to a harder overall route. Dave was also of the opinion that in character these lines differ from mainstream climbing on Beinn Udlaidh and despite their proximity to existing conventional routes, they remain quite isolated. Time will tell!

ABROAD
Italy

At Val D’Andro in the Italian Dolomites, Scott Muir flashed Silent Memories – M9 and red-pointed Fly in the Wind – M10. But the big news here is the third ascent of Mauro Bubu Boles’ new M12 – Big Ben by Scott, which is a particularly good effort. Also in Italy at the Haston Cave, Scott dispensed with Jedi Master. This is a new direct on Haston’s Empire Strikes Back and sports three testing pitches at M10, M11 and M9+ - all climbed in a day and described by Scott as one of the best climbing days of his life. On the 9th Feb, shortly before returning home, Scott managed to complete his own new project on the Mission Impossible Wall, weighing in at a massive M12 – all in all, a very successful trip.

New Zealand
The Brits have something of a reputation for making difficult first ascents in NZ. Hamish MacInnes made several trips in the 50’s and 60’s when he made numerous impressive first ascents. Although long overdue, it’s good to see that the tradition continues. James Edwards sends in this report of a new route on Mount Aspiring, the Matterhorn of New Zealand:

On the 19th of January the British Ex-pat team of James Edwards, Kev Neal and Oliver Metherell made the first ascent of 24 Hour Party People, ED2, Scottish VII, 650m - a direct line on the South Face of Mt Aspiring. Edwards had previously tried the line in the Spring with another Ex pat climber, Dave Alderson, but the pair had failed due to a combination of a tiring 2 day wade through deep snow and a large section of overhanging rock that was devoid of ice. Alderson was unable to make the second attempt due to an illness, but two other soldiers of fortune willingly volunteered to step into the breach and grab the one day weather window between storms. The change in numbers allowed a bigger mixed rack to be carried and Edwards pushed on from the previous highpoint and climbed two further pitches of Scottish VII through the overhanging band on very dubious ‘weet-a-bix’ rock and thin blobs of plastic ice. These key pitches led to the centre of the face where leads were then swapped on 65 to 90 degree ice directly to the summit ridge.


Oliver Metherell on 24 Hour Party People, Mount Aspiring, NZ
Photo: with thanks to James Edwards

Edwards and Metherell also made the first ascent of ‘Pt 2072’ by Matinee at D, 500m and the pair were joined by Neal for the first ascent on the Dasler Pinnacles of Petit Peuterey D, 800m. The lads would like to thank CRUX and Patagonia for their help in supplying equipment.

So that’s it for now folks. As usual I’ve probably missed a few important climbs and noteworthy repeats, but if you feel hard done by don’t hesitate to drop me an e-mail.

Cubby.

.....and finally, check out this rather neat photo montage by Pete Benson and his new digi cam - Stob Coire nan Lochan on the day (14th Feb) he and Guy climbed East Face Direct.