So what’s happened to the “Big Freeze” we’ve all been promised? If it’s any consolation it’s just the same in Zermatt where I was working last week! It’s amazing to think that in some years many of us would have a brace of classics (both ice and mixed) such as Point Five and Zero under our belts – and that was just for October. Oh well, I suppose we are only a third of the way through the season! As with the first report last month, I’ll begin with a round up of last winter’s highlight’s but first a little bit of late rock climbing news.

Late rock climbing news
The inverted delights of Dumbuck have yielded another power orientated problem to Dave MacLeod with Devastation Generation (8c), a line that Dave Redpath bolted back in 1996 and the first climb to be graded 8c in Scotland. After a brief encounter in January, MacLeod abandoned the project in favour of cooler autumnal weather. After five days without success he just about knocked it on the head for the winter when, as you do, decided to give it one last try. Obviously more relaxed, Dave found himself sketching through the crux and staring at the lower off to successfully complete this fifteen move despo. The line-up at Dumbuck is now looking pretty impressive with three 7c’s, 4 7c+’s, one 8a+, one 8b, one 8b+ and one 8c, not to mention a few good, easier routes. (Keep an eye out for the new SMC Lowlands Outcrops guide due out in December).

Julian Lines has head-pointed an immaculate E7 arete, which is not on Mull and Julian is not telling us of its whereabouts until the remaining lines have been done. No doubt we’ll hear about them in the spring.

The boys from the Caithness area gave me some earache for not mentioning recent developments taking place at Sarclet and surrounding area, and quite rightly too. These are amongst the best one pitch sea cliffs I’ve seen and despite the poor summer over forty new routes have been added. In the spring when the rock climbing season begins, I’ll pull out some highlights of those routes added.

In the last report under “Scots Abroad”, I failed to mention Jamie Andrews success on Kilimanjaro – a terrible oversight I know. Read on for a summary.

The amazing and determined Jamie Andrew joined an all disabled expedition to climb Kilimanjaro, and not by the normal route! The team included Paul Pritchard, David Lim from Singapore and Pete Steane from Tasmania. Having abandoned their original objective to attempt one of Kili’s northern glaciers via the Little Penck or the Credner (unsupported I must add) due to bad weather, Paul suffering from pulmonary odema and two of their Tanzanian guides becoming snow blind, they were forced to retreat. Instead they decided to attempt the Western Breach. Starting on January the 18th at 1am, this gave a superb climb (Scottish II under snow). The team reached the crator rim at 11am. At 3pm Uhuru Peak was reached (5825m). The descent to Barranco (3900m) took until midnight giving an exhausting 23 hour day.

The Voltaren Kilimanjaro Challenge was in aid of the Upendo Leprosy Centre, a Rotary Club project on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. More than £5000 was raised.

Bouldering news will feature next month.

Winter highlights 2003/04
Increasingly over recent winters, opportunity, careful route planning and close scrutiny of the weather, is the name of the game. And with internet technology, no longer are the best kept secrets of the remote Highlands the reserve of a few seasoned Scots. Overall it was a very intermittent season and lean as far as trad snow and ice was concerned but some good cold snaps preceded by surprisingly substantial falls of snow, provided a brief window of opportunity for those in the know. Exemplary in this field are of course Simon Richardson and Chris Cartwright who between them, notched up an impressive tally of first ascents. By example however, Guy Robertson’s and Pete Benson’s first winter ascent in late January, of Marathon Corner Direct VIII,8 on Ben Loyal was perfection in the making. Also of note includes a first one day flawless ascent of the winter Needle in late February by Guy and Jason Currie, bringing the total number of known repeats to four, and raising a somewhat sensitive issue within climbing circles – the question of winter ascents of quality rock climbs such as Needle and others like it. But I’ll give that subject a miss for the time being!

Talking of flawless repeats, VII’s and VIII’s are becoming more common place with unreported ascents of the likes of Unicorn and Into the Blue (by Derek Hunter who incidentally did Beyond Good and Evil on his first alpine season), proving that on the one hand we might not be witnessing any great breakthroughs in trad winter standards but we are witnessing a period of consolidation. Es Tresidder’s repeat of the Duel’s first pitch without the high side runner is noteworthy but unfortunately Es can’t tick the guide until the top pitch is completed. I would be curious to know if there was some insitu gear to go at on the crux? By contrast, and in the Logical/Tempest genre of winter climbs (I’m not sure if Mullin’s Frozen Sorrow falls into this category but probably does), Dave MacLeod has certainly nudged technical winter dry tooling boundaries with his ascent of The Cathedral (X,11) on The Cobbler towards the end of January.


Dave MacLeod on Cathedral (X,11), The Cobbler
Photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004

Dave’s approach to this climb differs by comparison to the tactics employed on Logical and Tempest in that the line was climbed ground up placing protection on the lead. Its highlight is a twenty foot overhanging roof crack and with reasonable gear it is certain to encourage popularity – we’ll see!

On the big, bad Ben, Bruce Poll and Tony Shepherd pulled off a big, bad nasty with the long overdue first winter ascent of Arthur, which weighs in at a substantial VIII,8. Its completion was not without a degree of trauma, when on an earlier attempt, Bruce took a bit of a battering in a fall. Time is a great healer however and he found enough courage to return and complete the climb. It must have been worth it Bruce!

Given the relatively poor season, at least by comparison to more conventional winters, the sum total of first ascents is pretty impressive, as is their geological spread, which includes many remote far flung corners of the Northern Highlands. In the North West, a relatively prolonged cold snap towards the end of January saw the back wall of Beinn Bhan’s Coire na Poite come into reasonable condition, with The Silver Tear receiving several known ascents.


Silver Tear, Beinn Bhan, clearly showing the two parallel lines
Photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004

This route is usually broad enough to accommodate two independent lines, the Ordinary on the left at classic V, while a direct on the right is perhaps closer to grade VI and takes in all the obvious steeper icicles. Also in Coire na Poite the increasingly familiar team of Malcolm Bass and Simon Yearsley picked another overripe plum in late January with Realisation, 370m, (VI,6), which climbs the long, slender buttress between Mad Hatters and March Hare Gully. This is the type of route you’d expect to have been climbed during the Smith/Marshall era, and perhaps deserves to join Central Buttress on Beinn Eighe, as one of the great classics of the area. Two more fine routes were added to Coire nam Fhamhair, where James Edwards and Sam Barron climbed Revelations (VI,6) and Edwards again, this time with Gareth Hughes, completed Biblical knowledge (VI,5).

After a nasty climbing accident two years back (preceded by a hip operation), the amazing Andy Nisbet is back up to speed putting his unsurpassed knowledge of the North West Highlands to good effect on Ben Damph. In late February, climbing with Jonathan Preston, the pair endured a long walk in and were amply rewarded with the first ascent of Aquilla, 235m (VI,7), described by Andy as “a really smart route”, and sharing it’s crux with Aquilla Gully which the pair climbed some years ago.


Andy Nisbet back on form
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004

On Slioch in early February, Iain Small and Neil Wilson climbed Avalanche Goose, 225m, (VI,7), while Pinnacled Gully, 450m, (III,4) by Chris Cartwright and Roger Webb sounds attractive and is said to offer some impressive rock scenery. New ice routes are something of a rarity these days but on Meall Horn, Sedna, 150m, (V,4), climbed in late February, is said to be a fine route on continuous ice - courtesy of Nisbet, McGimpsey, Brain Davison and D Allen.

In the An Teallach area, the North Face of Glas Mheall Mhor yielded another two icy lines with Plasticity 100m, (V,5) and The Slit, 100m (IV,5) thanks to Iain Small and Andy Hume. Both these routes were climbed in early March and bring the total number of lines on this buttress to eight. This sounds like a very good icy venue, and worth bearing in mind when when the high coires are out of condition. In late February in Coire Mhor on Ben Wyvis, John MacKenzie and Alan Dennis were seduced by the Temptress, described by “Lord” John as being the best on the crag and is one of many routes contributed to the north-west by John last season. On Sail Mhor, Guy Robertson and Tresidder opened their minds with Expanding Universe (VI,5), which is said to offer some very good, contrasting climbing. Many more areas in the Northern Highlands received various routes contributed by various parties, including Seana Bhraigh and Beinn an Eoin, Stac Pollaidh, Cul Mor, Beinn Dearg, South Glen Shiel, The Five Sisters and more.


Mick Fowler on the 1st ascent of Triple Echo, Applecross
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbbertson/Cubby Images 2004

Further south in Argyll, the beautifully situated Ben Cruachan has witnessed a rash of new routes ranging in difficulty between grade II to grade VII, with Cartwright as one of its main protagonists. The high north-facing crags are rapid forming, which makes for a good early season venue and although the routes are relatively short (80-100m), they are very sustained throughout their length. Of a dozen or so routes added, Goldfinger VII,7 (climbed in 2003) and Dr Noe, 85m (VI,6) stand out as perhaps two of the best thanks to Cartwright and Richardson.

Of a dozen or so routes climbed in the central and south Cairngorms, it was in the remote Coire na Ciche of Beinn A’Bhuird, where the Cartwright/Richardson team pulled off another very good route with Archtempter and Nipped in the Bud (V,6) in Coire nan Clach. Near Drumochter on Geal Charn, a good quality, steep ice pillar was climbed to give Flight of the Navigator, 100m, (VI,6) by I Rudkin, K Watson and K Neal.

Glen Coe received a handful of technical additions such as The Crook (VI,7) by Donald King and Andy Nelson in late December (2003), Under the Weather (VII,7) by Gareth Hughes and James Edwards, both on Bishops Buttress.


Andy Nelson on the start of Curved Ridge (II/III), Glen Coe
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004


A EUMC party on Crest Route (V,6), Glen Coe
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004

A few bibs and bobs on the Ben, the Aonachs and the Grey Coires, but nothing of any outstanding significance.


Jonathan Preston leading Graeme Ettle on the upper reaches of Stirling Bridge, Aonach Mor
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004


Urs Stoeker on the ffa of Cornucopia, Ben Nevis
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004


Smiths Route, Ben Nevis
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004

Dry Tooling
On the dry tooling front, Scott Muir continues to dominate the field and his tally of top Canadian and European mixed is certainly worthy of recognition. Scott is no newcomer to this game but his recent success started with Fast and Furious, D10 at The Tube, Newtyle Quarry, Birnam. Scott soon dispensed with a logical extension to provide Too Fast, Too Furious, D12, a climb that compares favourably alongside other top world-class climbs of this nature. (This was repeated by Dave MacLeod).


Scott Muir on Too Fast, Too Furious, Birnam Quarry
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004

Doing Too Fast proved to be an invaluable experience for Scott, a preamble that would ultimately lead to his successes in Canada, Switzerland and Italy, where he accounted for well over thirty routes between M10 and M12. Some of his most pleased with performances include: At Cyneplex in Canada, red-point ascents Orgasmo (M10), Musashi (M12) and was robbed of the second ascent of The Game (when a hold broke). At M13, The Game is currently rated as the world’s hardest mixed route. Better luck next time Scott! At Skylight in Colorado, Gold Line (M10+), A Fist Full of Steel (M11), and a flashed ascent of Reptile (M10) stand out. At Isenfluh, Switzerland he dispensed with Tomahawk and White Out, both M10+. At Ueschinen he flashed Power Limits (M10), made the first ascent of Samuri (M8) and completed Power Bats, not to mention red-pointing other M10’s. In Congne, Italy Stevie Haston’s super route from a few years back, Mission Impossible (M11) was ticked, as was Captain Hook (M10) and The Empire Strikes Back (M11-). All in all, a pretty good season.

These highlights are arguably the climbs that stand out from last season. There are many more which I’m sure from a more personal perspective, provided the first ascentionist with some great days out. So apologies if your finest hour has not been recorded here. Remember that all these climbs and more can be found in the SMC Journals.

So what can we expect from this coming winter?
Given ample snow cover - magnificent traditional snow and ice lines are crying out to be climbed, even at our most popular venues. There are a number of overdue repetitions to be made, such as Fallout (Glencoe), Against All Odds, MacLeans Folly, Guerdon Grooves and Mort (a contender for the hardest trad route in Scotland to date), and just remember that these routes do not fall into the category of dry tooling and it’s the volume of snow and ice that makes them so interesting! Of the technical test-pieces, Logical Progression still awaits its second ascent, although this route in the eyes of its first ascentionist is dependant on a veneer of hoar and low lying snow for a legitimate ascent. Tempest, as far as doing it ground up is concerned, is arguably the most challenging (some of the insitu pro has been removed and what remains is likely to be in a dangerous state), and given its location this is the route that will provide the most reliable winter conditions. Keep an eye out for the ice smear developing down the full length of the wall – definitely two routes in one here!

The Cathedral could prove to be quite popular (as protection is said to be reasonable), at least for those strong enough and technically able – but only time will tell. In the eyes of some, Mullin’s Frozen Sorrow is incomplete, but there’s no doubt that as an absorbing traditional mixed route, it is arguably one of the hardest pitches around, and then there’s the long alpine in stature type routes such as, The Godfather, Magic Bow Wall and ….Steeple.

Winter 2004/05
I woke up on Friday to a bright silent morning, the sort of ambience that suggests snow is lying on the ground. It might not have been much but it was certainly snow. Above 3500 feet cover was actually quite substantial and even more so in the North West and the Cairngorms. Sadly, by Sunday temperatures had risen to a steamy 12 degrees and putting an end to all things wintery. A few routes were climbed however. On Friday (November 19th) Nisbet in the company of McGimpsey, Preston and Vicci Chelton climbed the North Ridge of Spidean, Coire na Clach, Beinn Eighe. The route is 100m long and graded III,4.

That same day, and teaming up with Ian Parnell (on lecture tour), Simon Richardson and Ian made good use of the first snows on Creag Meagaidh where they climbed six pitches up the wall left of Eastern Corner (V,5), unnamed as yet. Surprisingly, the turf was frozen and there was crucial ice where needed.


Blair Fyfee on The Wand, Creag Meagaidh
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004

The same team moved onto the Ben on Saturday and following a line of icy cracks, they climbed into a gully system up the centre of the buttress right of Boulder West Gully at V,7. The first pitch proving to be the most technical but well protected. Elsewhere on the Ben, climbers were seen on North East Buttress, Tower Ridge and Observatory Ridge.

In the Cairngorms, the usual mid grade classics were climbed and ascents were also made of White Magic and Bulgy.


Urs Stoeker on Bulgy, Coire an Lochain, Northern Coires
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004


The Chute (IV), Coire an Lochain, Northern Coires
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004


Chris Bonnington on the first pitch of Milky Way (II/III), Northern Coires
photo: copyright Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images 2004

That’s it for now. See you next month.
Cubby

Check out these sites:
Geoff Monks - for accurate mountain weather forecasts, visit http://www.mwis.org.uk
Abacus Mountaineering - local Fort William Guide, Mike Pescod provides regular winter condition reports throughout the winter, visit http://www.abacusmountaineering.com
West Coast Mountain Guides - another local Guide, Alan Kimber also provides regular winter condition reports throughout the winter, visit http://westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/conditions.htm
Scottish Avalanche Information Service - for the latest avalanche reports and snow conditions, visit http://www.sais.gov.uk