This is the first monthly report summarizing Scottish climbing developments, newsworthy achievements and an insight into what the Scots have been up to at home in the UK and abroad. The report is far from comprehensive and if anything, given its selective nature, might be regarded by some to err on the side to being old-fashioned. But the idea is to highlight quality rather than quantity. For more details on first ascents, reference should be made to the SMC Journal. In this first report I will be highlighting developments abroad and in the Greater, and rock climbing in Scotland. We will deal with winter and bouldering in the next report, though as I look out the window, a dusting of fresh snow caps the Pap of Glencoe.

There was a time when, with great anticipation, I couldn’t wait for the SMC Journal to arrive through the post. It was very revealing and provided a sneak preview of what the lesser attention-seeking fraternity of the Scottish new-route scene had been up to. And it was a time to discover whether or not that wee line you had eyed up in the far North West had survived yet another year! Of course the previous year’s offerings pre dominate. So for 2003, the 2004 journal – as far as rock climbing in the mountains is concerned, was for me, a disappointment, especially given that it was a good summer. I suppose we have the comfort of quality indoor walls, Euro sun-kissed rock and uninspiring magazine reportage to blame for the neglected mountain rock climbs gathering moss by the week! However, there were a small number of exceptions and Icon of Lust (E8 6a,6c,6b) by Julian Lines has to be one of the most impressive contributions to British rock climbing in recent years. This was a much overlooked ascent, taking an uncompromising line directly up the heart of the Shelterstone’s central slabs. An equally impressive feat by Julian was his audacious marginal deep-water solo, the first ascent of Super Cracks in Reality (XXXS, 6b, S3) on the Aberdeen coast. In my own opinion, both of these climbs were ground breaking.


Julian Lines about to take the plunge while working on the key traverse on the 1st ascent of Super Cracks in Reality
photo Cubby Images/Dave Cuthbertson

Creag an Dubh Loch’s daunting Central Gully Wall yielded a very fine eliminate to Guy Robertson and Tim Rankin, which follows the prow directly, avoided by Bombadillo, to give Gorilla at a meaty E6 6b, while Pabbay veterans Rick Campbell and Gary Latter added another impressive line to the spectacularly overhanging Pink Wall with Cormorant Your Way to the Top (E5 6b). A visiting crack English team, comprising P Robbins and J McHaffie repeated most of the Pink Wall routes and were full of praise for their quality. They also added a few of their own with Fondue MacPac by Rbbins and McHaffie sounding particularly impressive. Steve Crowe and Karin Magog also got in on the action on the Pink Wall with What No Puffin (E6 6b). Cubby and Lynne Hill’s Arch Project received its logical conclusion by moving out left beneath the crux roof to join Prophesy of Drowning, although curiously I noted that they didn’t finish up the independent wall out to the right.

On a more adventurous front, the Great Stack of Handa was climbed by Chris Dale, and Johnathan Preston, which has to be made early in the year before the bird ban comes into effect. Also worthy of note was Chris Dale’s first ascent of Dun Dubh on the Quirang on the Isle of Skye – an impressive Diff and so far no contenders in as far as his claim to be “the last unclimbed green summit in the British Isles”, is concerned.

Dave MacLeod of course continues his quest with unparalled motivation to establish even harder boulder orientated test pieces, both in the mountains and on the outcrops. But so far he doesn‘t appear to have bettered his Dumbarton testpiece, Achemine. Worthy of note for Dave however, was the first ascent of Sabotage at Font 8a+ (confirmed by 2nd ascentionist Malcolm Smith), and the first ascent of Ian Pitcairn’s abandoned project at Newtyle Quarry, graded 8b and then soloed by Dave himself!

So what’s new for 2004

I don’t think I need to remind everyone just how poor a summer it’s been but the Spring was reasonable and while the rest of the country was being battered by storms and floods, the North West experienced some localized excellent weather with temperatures soaring into the high 70’s and low 80’s. Needless to say, it has been a popular year for sport climbing but first of all I’d like to start with a round up of the Scots abroad.

Kyrgyzstan
A five man Scottish expedition, consisting of some of Scotland’s top winter climbers, recently returned from a successful trip to the region of Kyzyl Asker, in Kyrgyzstans Western Kokshaal Too. The team of Es Tresidder, Guy Robertson, Pete Benson, Matt Halls and Robin Thomas succeeded in climbing four new mixed routes on the walls surrounding Kyzyl Asker, along with what is believed to be the 2nd ascent of the mountain itself.


Kyzyl Asker, in Kyrgyzstans Western Kokshaal Too - The view from basecamp after a snowstorm
photo Es Tresidder

Unfortunately their objective (the South East Face of Kyzyl Asker) was out of condition. Instead they focused their attention on the smaller but equally spectacular lines liberally dotted around the surrounding walls.

First up was a route on the South face of Panfilovski Division (5400m), climbed in bad weather by Es, Pete and Guy. The line takes a prominent corner/gully system and offered sections of superb water ice, followed by endless insecure mixed climbing. In light of the bad weather the tired trio descended without bagging the summit in an 18 hour round trip to give Haggis supper - WI 5+, 500m).


The south face of Panfilovski Division - Haggis supper takes the first line left of the easy gully shown in this photo, following that all the way to where it meets the easy gully
Photo Es Tresidder

After a valiant attempt on the unclimbed South Ridge on Kyzyl Asker (they reached about 5200m), and following a days rest, Robin and Matt ticked a classic gully on the South Face of Pik Jerry Garcia – Scottish V, 500m.

On the 700m high Great Walls of China, Es and Guy followed a line which provided 500m of some of the best icy mixed climbing either of them had ever seen. Smear of the Dark involved another 28 hour round trip and is graded Scottish VII and A1. Having lost three-quarters of their water ration, all thoughts of the summit were abandoned and a further 10 hour mini epic descent ensued.

Following on from a second attempt (which gained the East Col via an ice gully), Matt and Pete went for a re match with Kyzyl Asker, climbing a gully to the left of their previous attempt. With one pitch of Scottish VI, they gained the East Col at a point where the North Face could be gained relatively easily. From here they climbed and skied to the col between the East and West summit. They were up and down in a day, justifiably chuffed with a devious route to climb a mountain that had been much attempted but probably unclimbed since 1985.

Finally, Es and Pete added a route to the Ochre Walls. It follows a spectacular ice smear to the left of the Sean Isaacs route, Beefcakle, with a pitch of mixed VII, followed by thin, bold grade VI climbing. After some ridge climbing the unnamed summit was gained at dusk.


Pete seconding the crux pitch on our Ochre walls route
Photo Es Tresidder

The Scottish Kyzyl Asker expedition would like to thank the following people for their support of the trip: The Mount Everest Foundation, The BMC, The MCofS, UK sport, Alpinist Magazine, Mountain Equipment and Scarpa.

South America
Eastern Andes – Cuscu

An impressive line up of seasoned SMC die-hards – Geoff Cohen, Des Reubens, Steve Kennedy and Dave Wilkinson - visited the Vilconato range in the eastern Andes. Unlike other regions in the Andes this year they experienced good weather for the duration of their four week stay. Fifteen years ago Dave Wilkinson and Stephen Venables explored this area, climbing two or three new peaks. In the intervening years very little has been climbed, inspiring a return visit. Their prime objective was an unclimbed 6000m peak adjacent to Colquecruz I, but dangerous snow conditions thwarted all serious attempts. They then turned their attention to another unnamed unclimbed peak close by. A complex glacier approach required two days and a further long day with sections of grade III to climb the mountain. A descent was made by reversing the route. The party then split into two groups with differing objectives, Des and Steve went for another unclimbed, unnamed peak approx. 5800m in height, and followed the line of a long ridge, which they christened The Scottish Spur. Three days were required, including the approach and the climb provided the pair with some difficult mixed climbing, topped by grade V ice. Using abolakofs, a long descent ensued without incident. Meanwhile, Dave and Geoff succeeded on their respective climb, making the first ascent of a peak over 6000m in height. To finish off what was a very successful trip, a fourth relatively straight-forward peak, 5600m in height and previously climbed was summited.

Santa Cruz Valley
On the 15th/16th June, Nick Carter, Owen Samuel and Mike Pescod climbed the North Face of Paron (an attractive peak opposite Alpamajo) by a ten pitch route called Bartonellosis, graded TD+ with 570 metres of climbing up to Scottish grade V. After leaving camp (4800m) at 9pm, they reached the face at 11pm, climbed through the night and reached the top at 7am. Due to a very large snow mushroom on top the summit was avoided. The descent took another ten hours of abseils and thigh deep snow to cross the Artesonraju Col to get back to the tents. This was supposed to be a warm up and an acclimatization climb but bad weather from then on put an end to all further climbing. On a final attempt to climb, the team were taken out by an avalanche. Mike was buried a metre down, Owen just below the surface, but Nick thankfully was on top. Nick got Owen out quickly, then got to Mike’s head after ten minutes to find him blue and not breathing. After another ten minutes, his chest was freed of snow and he started breathing deeply and regained consciousness. All are now back safely in the UK you’ll be glad to hear!



North Face of Paron - Bartonellosis, ten pitches, TD+
Photo Mike Pescod

Alaska – Ruth Gorge
On the 30th March a strong two man team from Edinburgh, comprising of Sam Chinnery and Andy Sharpe, landed on the Ruth Glacier for their first visit to the area. Dropping their original plan, the pair decided on an icy couloir system bisecting the South East Face of Mount Dickie. After one abandoned attempt due to deteriorating weather and near continuous spindrift avalanches, the pair returned, and with a good break in the weather went for it big time. The route was successfully completed with two bivvis and was climbed almost entirely on snow and ice with one loose and rotten pitch, giving Andy a run for his money! The Snow Patrol is 1600m long and required three days for the round trip with a descent down the normal route (requiring seven hours of wading in deep snow). Andy notes that the weather was generally agreeable though clearly mixed, and is of the opinion that earlier in the season would be uncomfortably cold and less likely to form ice. Bad weather thwarted an attempt on the south side of the Mooses Tooth but a great first season nevertheless.

Scotland
Shetland
The new SMC Climbers guide to the Northern Hghlands North has sparked off some activity, and if anything rejuvenated one of Shetland’s most active exponents of adventurous sea cliff climbing, Dave Turnbull. Earlier in the year, Dave with Ian Butler, Adam Wainwright and Andy Cave visited the area. Time seems to stand still in these parts and ten years have passed since Wilson Moir provided the area with something of a modern makeover. His Navir Direct has the distinction of being the most northerly E5 in the British Isles and was repeated by Adam and Andy who said it was excellent. It’s a long way to go for a 25m route but the notorious island of Foula and its 1000 foot high daunting sea cliffs will not be to everybody’s liking. Talking of Foula, Dave and Ian added two new E4’s to the easily accessible Mucklabrek with The Lifeboat and Homesick for Harrissons’. Deciding that Foula was not for them, Andy and Adam returned to the mainland where they discovered a gob smacking 45m conglomerate sea cliff which they likened to a ‘Riglos by the Sea’ (in other words, good quality conglomerate). The pair quickly dispensed with Lost For Words (E5 6a) – see photo in Climber, Oct 2004 issue, it’s name reflecting the outstanding quality of the route, while Dave and Ian added an equally fine HVS named Magnus The Brave. Gary Latter was also busy in the area adding a number of first ascents and no doubt a little peeved at being pipped at the post on the above routes.

Hoy
St Johns Head
In the true spirit of adventure a team from Orkney have explored a very impressive new route at St Johns Head. It’s hard to describe just how impressive St Johns Head is. For those who have climbed The Old Man of Hoy, you will have a vague inkling, but St Johns in a direct line is over three times the height of The Old Man, and with rock nowhere near as accommodating, and in general outrageously exposed. So full marks to the boys. Testament to the Insane was climbed by two teams, Iain Millar and Les Gorham, Darren Fox and Ross Jones. The route, which is 477m long was climbed in a 26 hour push and, as is customary in these parts, graded XS with technical climbing up to 5b.

Cathrine Destiville, summit of Old Man of Hoy after her solo ascent. St John's Head in the background.
Photo Cubby Images

Hebrides
Pabbay & Mingulay
Ironically, these remote islands are rapidly becoming one of the UK’s most popular climbing holiday destinations! Despite an unprecedented number of visits this year, little in the way of substance has been reported although I suspect Gary Latter and Rick Campbell have got something to offer – no doubt we’ll hear about it later in the year. Comforting news is that one of the new boatmen on Barra, Donald MacDonald rents out longwave radios which should provide some peace of mind.


Ali Coul on something (about E4) that cuts through Voyage of Faith on Dun Mingulay, Mingulay.
Photo Cubby Images


Guy Robertson and Tim Rankin on the 1st ascent of Gorilla, Dubh Loch.
Photo Cubby Images

Harris & Lewis
Numerous groups including the usual key players – Rab and Chris Anderson, Mick Tighe and Ross Jones with John Sanders have all contributed to the small but quality intermittent gneiss cliffs of western Lewis, mainly in the lower to middling grades. They are too numerous to mention here, so best to refer to the SMC journal when it comes out. At long last the quality and variety of climbing on Lewis and Harris appears to be gaining the respect it deserves. A strong team from south of the border, comprising Leo Holding, Ben Bransby and other young notables visited the area and despite the unsettled weather, managed to squeeze in a couple of good routes. I note with interest an article in the last issue of On The Edge stating, in reference to The Scoop on Stron Ulladale that the author did not think that The Scoop had received a one day ascent. Although this was probably journalistic license, to the best of my knowledge, it has received several. Myself and Glen Sutcliffe comfortably completed the route in a day back in the mid 90’s and I climbed all the pitches without a fall. As for The Screaming Ab Dabs, I know of one possible ascent by Twid Turner. It’s a nippy crux though short lived. I was pleased to hear of their rave reports of the Screaming Geo, which certainly ranks with the best in the country. Steve Myers who has put up numerous impressive routes here will vouch for that. My only regret personally speaking was not going back to climb The Prosac Link (added by Glenda Huxter some years later) which avoids the roof on SAD at about E3/4.

Skye
Stron na Ciche, Coire Laggan.
Somewhere old, something new – on The Cioch,the irrepressible Dave MacLeod headpointed the impending gritstonesque wall overlooking Cioch Corner. The route involves a protectionless traverse on tiny gabbro dinks, culminating in a hard 6b move with deckout potential to reach the sanctuary of a solitary creaking spike. The line had been looked at a couple of years back by Neil Gresham while on one of his infamous repping trips north of the border but he never found time to return. On account of its serious nature, The Gathering weighs in at a very respectable E8 and is a worthy addition to The Cioch and a full two grades harder than Grant farqhuar’s earlier testpiece, The Highlander (E6 6b), which incidentally received its second ascent last year by Rick Waterton. Also on Skye, during a brief spell of good weather in August, visiting ex pat Brian McMillan squeezed in a rare ascent of Stairway to Heaven on the Great Prow of Blaven. Brian utilized the start of Jib and linked up to the normal route via a new variation, thus avoiding the vile usually wet start of the normal route.

Repeats
On the repeat front, the long awaited second ascent of Murray Hamilton’s 80’s test piece, The Kelpie (E6 6b) on the South Wall of Garbh Bheinn fell to Dave MacLeod, commenting that it was superb and surprisingly powerful for a concentrated 30 foot section on the middle crack. Dave also made the first on-sight ascent of Cubby’s 70’s test piece, Wild Country, on the Cobbler without recourse to pre placed protection. Dave was of the opinion that it was hard E6 (although given some impressive failures in recent years, E7 might be more appropriate) or 7b+. Dave’s was the fourth ascent overall, the 2nd and 3rd ascents going to Paul Laughlan and Paul Thorburn respectively. Also on The Cobbler, Dave Birkett made the fourth ascent of Gary Latter’s Dalriada, commenting that it is one of the most fantastic routes in the country at E6 6b with insitu pegs. Dave MacLeod also accounts for second ascents of Undertow and Otto, both at Reiff and confirming their E7 6c grades. On the latter however, Dave thought a sport grade of 7c+ as opposed to 8a+ was more accurate. On the Gruinard Crags, Niall McNair narrowly missed out of an on-sight of Major Domo, getting it on his second go and then on-sighted the second ascent of Dead Calm. Niall confirmed their excellent quality and E6 6b grades. Dave MacLeod did likewise and on-sighting Major Domo. At Loch Tolliadh, Naill McNair repeated Old El Pastits (E6), El Passe (E5) and Balding Oldie confirming their quality and grade. Only Conquistador (E7 6c/7a) awaits its second ascent.


Niall McNair on the superb Major Domo (E6 6b).
Photo Cubby Images

Sport Climbing
It’s been a good start to the year for Dave MacLeod, who did his first 8c at Ceuse in France and setting a theme back home in Scotland where he picked up on a few old projects, not to mention a major clean up campaign at Dumbarton where anchors have been replaced as well as some re bolting.

Glencoe
Dave MacLeod has added two new sport routes to the Tunnel Wall, Axiom (7c+) climbs the full height of the wall parallel to Admission, while Third Eye (7c), is a slightly shorter offering to the left again. Dave Birkett who made the 2nd ascent of Axiom thought it to be a full grade harder than other routes of this grade on the wall, which would suggest that we almost certainly have another 8a to go at. Mary Birkett made the second female ascent of Fated Path (7c+) – April Marr being the first, and another ascent of Fated Path by veteran Roger Everett is also worthy of note.

Lower Glen Lednock
Scott Muir has been developing a quality mica schist sport climbing venue with ten routes completed up to 28m in height and graded between 5+ and 6b+. Details will be posted on Scottish Climbs http://scottishclimbs.com

Tighnabruach
At Tighnabruach, Dave Redpath completed his long standing project, Shield of Perseus, graded 8a and confirmed on the second ascent by MacLeod. MacLeod added Distant Cries (7b+), while Dave Redpath added the excellent, Crouching Tiger (6c+) and Vanishing Pont (7a+).

Glen Ogle
On the Concave Wall, MacLeod added Snipe Shadow and given hard 8b.

Dumbuck
Happiness in Slavery (8b+) provides a “short, very powerful sprint” and is currently thought to be Scotland’s hardest sport route. Rick Waterton repeated Andy Gallacher’s Voodoo, which was thought to be 8a in its original state, (but some holds were pulled off and a subsequent ascent by MacLeod was thought by him to be 8b). Rick confirmed the grade of 8b.

Stron na Clachar
An old project of Colin Miln’s provided Dave MacLeod with a very technical off-vertical 7c named Live in Skin (7c).

That's it till next month.
Cubby.