REPORTS
Welcome to Cubby Images Climbing Reports. Each month we'll be adding reports to keep you up to date with the latest Scottish climbing news. - significant new routes and repeats, expeditions, events, competitions and much more. For future reference, all climbing reports will be archived at the bottom of this page. If you have any news you'd like share, please e-mail us info@cubbyimages.co.uk
Winter Climbing Report - No.11 (1st of 07/08 season)
Monday, February 04, 2008
Winter 2007/2008
An impressive snow fall over the Cairngorms during the third week of September hinted of a promising start to the new winter season. Of course it disappeared as quickly as it arrived. But it was enough to whet the appetites of a few seasoned locals. "1985 was the last time I can remember so much snow in September" said Andy Nisbet, who with Jonathan Preston nipped up Pygmy Ridge in Sneachda. But the promising snows soon melted to give way to some fine autumn weather for rock climbing and the young guns would have to wait until December for the first real snow of the winter.
Sunrise, Beinn a Bhuird
photo: with thanks and copyright to Pete Benson
The season started with news of an exciting new route called The Secret on Ben Nevis and for once it was not a home grown product! First ascentionist, Andy Turner, Vivian Scott and Steve Ashton considered their climb to be the hardest on-sight of a Scottish winter route to date. A substantial claim and at X,10 it was guaranteed to attract attention. But is it really grade X? In the Gorms, Pete Benson and Guy Robertson endured the long approach to Beinn a Bhuird and were amply rewarded with the much sought after first winter ascent of Slochd Wall, a contender for grade IX. In the North West, Robertson again, this time with Ian Parnell picked off another ripe plum with a first winter ascent of the sensational Sundance on Beinn Eighe. Talking of long approaches, Simon Richardson and Roger Webb added a new VII,7 on one Scotland's most remote munros, A Mhaighean, involving a non stop impressive 24 hour push (with a wee nap at Carnmore!).
Mark Garthwaite speechless, Cullin Ridge, Isle of Skye
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Robertson
It’s over the sea to Skye and a dawn start on Dawn Grooves for Mark Garthwaite and an unstoppable Robertson, and another major line of high quality ticked.
BEN NEVIS
Creag Coire na Ciste.
The Secret, 75m X,10 was climbed by Andy Turner, Viv Scott and Steve Ashworth on December the 10th, 2007. The line of this impressive route is situated to the left of Cornucopia, high up on the right flank of No.3 Gully where an imposing arete containing a prominent crack can be seen. Despite its name the line was well known locally and had seen a number of previous attempts. The first pitch up wide cracks in a chimney was dispensed with at VII,7, while the pumpy 35 metre crack on pitch two provides a potentially well protected crux. On Dec 30th, an all-star line up including Ian Parnell, Mark Garthwaite and Guy Robertson were not long in dispensing with the second ascent. Parnell, who led the crux was very encouraged by some fresh faces on the Scottish winter scene and was full of admiration for the young teams ascent of the 'classy' line. Such is the winter game however, that conditions varied on the two ascents and it would appear, according to Parnell, that despite verglassed cracks, they experienced preferable conditions rendering the climb slightly easier compared to the first ascent which was also verglassed, less helpful and under heavier snow. Parnell was able to utilize a number of exposed edges on the face the crack while Turner was confined to using an assortment of imaginative torque bars and can openers in the crack itself. Grades, don't you just love to hate them! Surprise, surprise opinions vary here. Parnell, who led the crux and therefore endured both the mental and physical hardship, vetted bottom end IX,9, while Garthwaite and Robertson thought VIII,8. The differing opinions could be said to be splitting hairs though Parnell was quick to point out that the crux involved thirty minutes of hard graft opposed to the thirty seconds required by Garthwaite seconding! I haven't spoken to Garthwaite on the subject but I did encourage some feedback from Guy:
"My first comment is that I thought it was a magic little route, and a very fine on-sight indeed by Andy Turner. Climbing at this level is like pioneering E6 on-sight in summer. Based on our experiences on other routes across the country however, we all felt that the proposed grade of X,10 was unnecessary; we felt the route comparable in difficulty to VIII,8's elsewhere. At the risk of being accused of willy-waving, I think it's important to discuss the grading issue here. In my opinion, Scottish grade X is roughly equivalent to something like E8 in summer, which puts an on-sight first ascent at this level into vivid perspective. This is a level of traditional climbing that world class climbers have yet to achieve on repeat ascents, never mind whilst pioneering. I think if we're not careful then front end winter grades will lose their meaning, such that length and seriousness will no longer be accounted for. Anyone with strong arms and good modern equipment can at least have a pop at any short steep crack, which is why routes like he Secret and those in the norries get more ascents than Helvellyn. The same can't be said for the big lines on Lochnagar's Tough Brown Face, or the Shelter Stone, for example. Furthermore, there's still huge scope for much harder grade VIII's and new IX's in Scotland, before we're anywhere near grade X, but I guess that's not what the media wants to hear. Using the summer system as a parallel - which most people now seem to do - we all know there are easy, bold E5's, and hard, safe E5's, which could incorporate a range of climbing difficulty as wide as French 6c to French 7b. Similarly E6 could be anywhere between 7a and 7c+! There simply isn't this range within top end winter routes at the moment, and there's no reason why this should be the case”.
In December 2007, on No.3 Gully Buttress, Blair Fyffe and Kenny Grant climbed a new line to the right of Two Step Corner, approached via No.3 Gully Buttress. They started up Shinook then by icy grooves to a left traverse line to a belay beneath a thin crack (a much harder looking direct start was avoided). The crack was then followed to easier ground. Overall the climb proved to be a lot more reasonable than first expected and went at IV,6.
Stormtrooper (VIII,8), 8th Jan 2008 is another offering from Turner and Ashworth and is said to provide a very fine companion route to Darth Vader, though harder and more sustained. Starting to the right of the above, the climb follows a bold groove on pitch one and a wild and exposed tapering ramp for its crux on pitch two.
THE CAIRNGORMS
The Grinder takes the corner system to the left of the crag.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Pete Benson
Beinn a Bhuird, Coire na Ciche.
On the 13th Dec 2007, in typically understated manner, Pete Benson and Ross Hewitt made the first winter ascent of The Grinder, VII,8 (a summer E1 5b).
Looking south from Coire na Ciche.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Pete Benson.
Pete Benson of pitch two of Commando Direct
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Ross Hewitt
Ross Hewitt on the 'aid move' on Commando Direct.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Pete Benson
Pete Benson on the last pitch on Commando Direct. This pitch is also common to 'West Side Story'.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Ross Hewitt.
More recently, on Jan 22nd, Pete Benson, this time with Robertson climbed the first winter ascent of the much sought after Slochd Wall (HVS 5a in summer).
The first pitch was split in two, they then followed the right-hand finish going straight up the corner rather than starting on the right wall as in summer. Above the terrace they moved right and finished up the obvious fault. Guy described the climbing as brilliant but hard, not super strenuous but technical and run-out in places; typical of Beinn a Bhuird granite being more rounded than elsewhere in the Gorms. Eight hours were required for the climb (five and a half hours on a heavily iced walk-in!), and overall the climb is thought to nudge grade IX.
Guy Robertson on pitch one of Slochd Wall.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Pete Benson
Pete Benson probes pitch two of Slochd Wall. Hard and scary on tenuous hooks.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Robertson.
BREARIACH
Garbh Coire Mor
In December, Simon Richardson and Roger Webb climbed what is possibly one of the last major unclimbed gully lines in the Cairngorms, with the left branch of Buntings Gully. A deep cave at half-height was always going to present a challenge but the pair found the right wall streaked with thin, squeeky ice which provided a bold lead, similar to the crux of Minus One Gully, only a tad harder and graded VI,6.
West Buttress.
Left Edge, 200m II was soled by Nisbet on the 2nd Dec 2007 and essentially follows a groove avoiding the undercut base of the buttress close to Col Gully, then by various grooves in the crest to a final steepening.
GARBH CHOIRE DHAIDH
West Face.
Sorbet, 250m III. Nick Carter, A.Nisbet and J.Preston on 19th Dec 2007. This takes a line of icey grooves on the left side of the largest buttress (between Pea Soup and Chewing The Fat).
Crystal, 250m, A.Nisbet, 17th Dec 2007. To the left of Pea Soup, a stepped narrow groove holds ice. No cornice present in the lean icey conditions.
For those of you looking for an adventure at a more modest level, then cast your eyes over some of Andy Nisbet's recent contributions in the Cairngorms. The route Sparkler on Sgoran Dubh Mor for example receives an enthusiastic report.
GLEANN EINICH
Sue Wood on the upper part of Diamond Buttress after the ascent of Sparkler.
photo: with thanks and copyright to Andy Nisbet
Sgoran Dubh Mor, Fan Corrie.
Noggin the Nog, 100m III,4. Brian Davison and A.Nisbet, 13th Nov 2007. This route follows a narrow buttress right of Diamond Buttress, just left of the main gully.
Sparkler, 200m, III, Dave McGimpsey, A.Nisbet, Sue Wood, 11th Jan 2008. An excellent route based on Bell's original line on Diamond Buttress. The highlight being a superb narrow crest leading to the top.
Clangers, 100m, II, B.Davison, A.Nisbet, 13th Nov 2007. A high buttress directly above the main gully which forms the left-side of Diamond Buttress. Blocky with short technical moves above ledges!
Silver Rib, 250m, II, A.Nisbet 15th Jan 2008. The long rib left of Diamond Buttress with a 'helpful' right-facing corner for a crux.
LAIRIG GHRU
Sron na Lairige.
Kasbah, 160m, V,5, D.McGimpsey, A.Nisbet, Sue Wood, 12th Jan 2008. The left of three groove systems on the right face of Lairig Ridge. The crux is the third pitch being much harder than the rest.
Pupster, 140m III, D.McGimpsey, S.Wood, 22nd Jan 2008. A thin groove left of Gormless to join that route briefly, finishing up left fork to reach Lairig Ridge.
Ghrusome, 200m, V,6, John Lyall, A.Nisbet, 7th Jan 2008. Takes the left-hand of two ridges located on a sector of cliff north of the Lairig Ridge area.
Polar Bear, 200m, IV,5, J.Lyall, A.Nisbet, 6th Jan 2008. The right-hand of the two ridges.
LURCHERS CRAG.
Arctic Monkey 300m III,4. S.Allan, A.Nisbet. 6th January 2008.
The ridge on the left of Central Gully.
Dotterel 130m V,5. S.Allan, A.Nisbet. 6th January 2008.
The ridge immediately right of Central Gully.
The following routes are ridges described heading north from South Gully. Approach by descending South Gully to where it opens out, then traversing a ledge northwards to below the ridges.
Husky 150m III,4. A.Nisbet. 3rd December 2007.
The nearest ridge on the north side of South Gully has many fine torquing moves and jammed flakes, best when well frozen and not too dry. Much of the climbing is escapable but still entertaining.
Piggie in the Middle 120m III,6. J.Lyall, A.Nisbet. 10th December 2007.
A subsidiary ridge which lies between Husky and Doorway Ridge, but starts 60m up the depression between the two.
Doorway Ridge 200m IV,5. J.Lyall, A.Nisbet. 8th December 2007.
The second ridge on the north side of South Gully..
Ptarmigan Ridge 200m III. S.Allan, A.Nisbet. 9th December 2007.
The third ridge is tackled via a groove in the centre of its steep lower section.
Sweep 200m III. J.Lyall, A.Nisbet. 10th December 2007.
The fourth ridge has a wider base undercut by a smooth overhanging wall.
Summit Ridge 250m II. A.Nisbet. 8th December 2008.
A long but scrappy route with many of the difficulties optional. Traverse from South Gully to beyond the upper gully of Window Gully.
Reindeer Ridge 150m III. A.Nisbet. 10th January 2008.
The next ridge north is the first ridge right of Dotterel.
Pinnacle Ridge 150m II. A.Nisbet. 9th November 2007.
The ridge right (south) of South Gully.
Punchdrunk 130m III. A.Nisbet. 8th December 2008.
A broad buttress just left of Drystane Ridge. This climbs its left edge.
Pug Face 130m II. A.Nisbet. 3rd December 2007.
This climbs its right side.
Hound of the Baskervilles 150m IV,5. A.Nisbet, J.Preston. 9th November 2007.
A prominent ridge between Collie’s and Deerhound Ridges gives good climbing but easy ground lies close on the left.
THE NORTHERN COIRES
Coire An T-Sneachda, Fluted Buttress.
Lambada, 130m, IV,5, J.Lyall, A.Nisbet, J.Preston, 1th Dec 2007. This is a direct line through Wavelength to join the crest overlooking Spiral Gully and finishing up Wavelength.
Coire An Lochain, No.1 Buttress.
Circumvent, 60m, V,7, J.Prseton, Martin Moran, A.Nisbet, 26th Nov 2007. A steep groove between the big corner of Inventive and the groove of Adventure.
No.2 Buttress
The rib between Ventilation and Chute Route fell to Nisbet and Lyall to give Cyber Space, 100m, V,6, Jan 30th 2008. And proving that worthwhile new route potential still exists in the Northern Coires, you just have to know where to find them.
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS CENTRAL
A Mhaighean: Pillar Buttress.
Simon Richardson and Roger Webb have climbed the crest of Pillar Buttress to give The Great Game, VII,7, which provided six excellent pitches in an outstanding position. Richardson remarked that climbing a route on what many people consider to be one of Scotland's remotest munros proved to be logistically complex, with the approach over the summit taking over nine hours, the route eight, and the walk out another seven. Now that's impressive!
Strathfarrar, Sgurr na Fearstaig, South Top, East Face
D.McGimpsey, A.Nisbet, J.R.MacKenzie and N.Wilson, 19th Jan 2008, made a winter ascent of White Wizard (a summer Severe taking the right edge of the big slabby wall right of The Sorcerer), and was said to provide a fine and intricate route with an excellent second pitch.
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS SOUTH:
Beinn Eighe, Far East Wall.
Ian Parnell leading pitch one of Sundance.
photo: with thanks an c opyright to Guy Robertson.
Guy Robertson on pitch two of Sundance
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Robertson.
Sundance VIII,8 received its first winter ascent on Jan the 10th 2008 and has been described by first ascentionists Ian Parnell and Guy Robertson as "a contender for the best mixed route in Scotland, for sure!" Sundance is a summer E2 (5a,5b,5a) and is one of those rare winter lines that is gently overhanging with vegetated cracks and otherwise clean rock. The route which features a pitch of 6, two of 8 and one of 7 has been described as truly outstanding - thin and delicate, then pumpy and intimidating on pitch two (prob crux), then super sustained and utterly sensational on pitch three. The latter is one of the most "out there" pitches I've done in Scotland in winter, enthused a suitably impressed Parnell. There was a thirty foot damoclean fang of ice hanging over the lip (a characteristic feature of the route in winter), which proved vital on reaching the belay.
ISLE OF SKYE:
Biblical views over the Cullin Ridge
photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Robertson.
Sgurr Mhic Coininch.
Dawn Grooves, VIII,8, Jan 17th 2008. Abseiling in from the big spike at the col (of Rotton Gully) and starting the climb at 9 o'clock, Mark Garthwaite and Guy Robertson (now climbing on his 2nd consecutive day after Sundance on Beinn Eighe), blazed the first winter ascent of Dawn Grooves in a superb nine hour push. The climb yielded a pitch of 6, three of 7 and two of 8, all very sustained with generally excellent protection. The first four pitches of Dawn Grooves were followed to below the steep ‘15m wall’, then right to a rib, then straight up to belay beneath a big cracked block. A rightward trend then took them into an obvious recessed groove with a turfy grotto at its base. This led to the top in a big 40m pitch which was described by Guy as awesome - a tough 10m hard corner crack right below the summit ridge - all very exciting in the dark!
Mark Garthwaite on pitch one of Dawn Grooves, probably the crux of the route.
photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Robertson.
Guy Robertson on pitch four of Dawn Grooves
photo: with thanks and copyright to Mark Garthwaite.
The inevitable battle at dusk - leaving only a quick abseil back for tea and medals at the col!
photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Roberston.
Archived ReportsAn impressive snow fall over the Cairngorms during the third week of September hinted of a promising start to the new winter season. Of course it disappeared as quickly as it arrived. But it was enough to whet the appetites of a few seasoned locals. "1985 was the last time I can remember so much snow in September" said Andy Nisbet, who with Jonathan Preston nipped up Pygmy Ridge in Sneachda. But the promising snows soon melted to give way to some fine autumn weather for rock climbing and the young guns would have to wait until December for the first real snow of the winter.
Sunrise, Beinn a Bhuird
photo: with thanks and copyright to Pete Benson
The season started with news of an exciting new route called The Secret on Ben Nevis and for once it was not a home grown product! First ascentionist, Andy Turner, Vivian Scott and Steve Ashton considered their climb to be the hardest on-sight of a Scottish winter route to date. A substantial claim and at X,10 it was guaranteed to attract attention. But is it really grade X? In the Gorms, Pete Benson and Guy Robertson endured the long approach to Beinn a Bhuird and were amply rewarded with the much sought after first winter ascent of Slochd Wall, a contender for grade IX. In the North West, Robertson again, this time with Ian Parnell picked off another ripe plum with a first winter ascent of the sensational Sundance on Beinn Eighe. Talking of long approaches, Simon Richardson and Roger Webb added a new VII,7 on one Scotland's most remote munros, A Mhaighean, involving a non stop impressive 24 hour push (with a wee nap at Carnmore!).
Mark Garthwaite speechless, Cullin Ridge, Isle of Skye
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Robertson
It’s over the sea to Skye and a dawn start on Dawn Grooves for Mark Garthwaite and an unstoppable Robertson, and another major line of high quality ticked.
BEN NEVIS
Creag Coire na Ciste.
The Secret, 75m X,10 was climbed by Andy Turner, Viv Scott and Steve Ashworth on December the 10th, 2007. The line of this impressive route is situated to the left of Cornucopia, high up on the right flank of No.3 Gully where an imposing arete containing a prominent crack can be seen. Despite its name the line was well known locally and had seen a number of previous attempts. The first pitch up wide cracks in a chimney was dispensed with at VII,7, while the pumpy 35 metre crack on pitch two provides a potentially well protected crux. On Dec 30th, an all-star line up including Ian Parnell, Mark Garthwaite and Guy Robertson were not long in dispensing with the second ascent. Parnell, who led the crux was very encouraged by some fresh faces on the Scottish winter scene and was full of admiration for the young teams ascent of the 'classy' line. Such is the winter game however, that conditions varied on the two ascents and it would appear, according to Parnell, that despite verglassed cracks, they experienced preferable conditions rendering the climb slightly easier compared to the first ascent which was also verglassed, less helpful and under heavier snow. Parnell was able to utilize a number of exposed edges on the face the crack while Turner was confined to using an assortment of imaginative torque bars and can openers in the crack itself. Grades, don't you just love to hate them! Surprise, surprise opinions vary here. Parnell, who led the crux and therefore endured both the mental and physical hardship, vetted bottom end IX,9, while Garthwaite and Robertson thought VIII,8. The differing opinions could be said to be splitting hairs though Parnell was quick to point out that the crux involved thirty minutes of hard graft opposed to the thirty seconds required by Garthwaite seconding! I haven't spoken to Garthwaite on the subject but I did encourage some feedback from Guy:
"My first comment is that I thought it was a magic little route, and a very fine on-sight indeed by Andy Turner. Climbing at this level is like pioneering E6 on-sight in summer. Based on our experiences on other routes across the country however, we all felt that the proposed grade of X,10 was unnecessary; we felt the route comparable in difficulty to VIII,8's elsewhere. At the risk of being accused of willy-waving, I think it's important to discuss the grading issue here. In my opinion, Scottish grade X is roughly equivalent to something like E8 in summer, which puts an on-sight first ascent at this level into vivid perspective. This is a level of traditional climbing that world class climbers have yet to achieve on repeat ascents, never mind whilst pioneering. I think if we're not careful then front end winter grades will lose their meaning, such that length and seriousness will no longer be accounted for. Anyone with strong arms and good modern equipment can at least have a pop at any short steep crack, which is why routes like he Secret and those in the norries get more ascents than Helvellyn. The same can't be said for the big lines on Lochnagar's Tough Brown Face, or the Shelter Stone, for example. Furthermore, there's still huge scope for much harder grade VIII's and new IX's in Scotland, before we're anywhere near grade X, but I guess that's not what the media wants to hear. Using the summer system as a parallel - which most people now seem to do - we all know there are easy, bold E5's, and hard, safe E5's, which could incorporate a range of climbing difficulty as wide as French 6c to French 7b. Similarly E6 could be anywhere between 7a and 7c+! There simply isn't this range within top end winter routes at the moment, and there's no reason why this should be the case”.
In December 2007, on No.3 Gully Buttress, Blair Fyffe and Kenny Grant climbed a new line to the right of Two Step Corner, approached via No.3 Gully Buttress. They started up Shinook then by icy grooves to a left traverse line to a belay beneath a thin crack (a much harder looking direct start was avoided). The crack was then followed to easier ground. Overall the climb proved to be a lot more reasonable than first expected and went at IV,6.
Stormtrooper (VIII,8), 8th Jan 2008 is another offering from Turner and Ashworth and is said to provide a very fine companion route to Darth Vader, though harder and more sustained. Starting to the right of the above, the climb follows a bold groove on pitch one and a wild and exposed tapering ramp for its crux on pitch two.
THE CAIRNGORMS
The Grinder takes the corner system to the left of the crag.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Pete Benson
Beinn a Bhuird, Coire na Ciche.
On the 13th Dec 2007, in typically understated manner, Pete Benson and Ross Hewitt made the first winter ascent of The Grinder, VII,8 (a summer E1 5b).
Looking south from Coire na Ciche.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Pete Benson.
Garbh Choire
Previously on the 11th Dec 2007, the same pair followed a direct line on the existing Commando Route at VI,6.
Pete Benson of pitch two of Commando Direct
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Ross Hewitt
Ross Hewitt on the 'aid move' on Commando Direct.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Pete Benson
Pete Benson on the last pitch on Commando Direct. This pitch is also common to 'West Side Story'.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Ross Hewitt.
More recently, on Jan 22nd, Pete Benson, this time with Robertson climbed the first winter ascent of the much sought after Slochd Wall (HVS 5a in summer).
The first pitch was split in two, they then followed the right-hand finish going straight up the corner rather than starting on the right wall as in summer. Above the terrace they moved right and finished up the obvious fault. Guy described the climbing as brilliant but hard, not super strenuous but technical and run-out in places; typical of Beinn a Bhuird granite being more rounded than elsewhere in the Gorms. Eight hours were required for the climb (five and a half hours on a heavily iced walk-in!), and overall the climb is thought to nudge grade IX.
Guy Robertson on pitch one of Slochd Wall.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Pete Benson
Pete Benson probes pitch two of Slochd Wall. Hard and scary on tenuous hooks.
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Robertson.
BREARIACH
Garbh Coire Mor
In December, Simon Richardson and Roger Webb climbed what is possibly one of the last major unclimbed gully lines in the Cairngorms, with the left branch of Buntings Gully. A deep cave at half-height was always going to present a challenge but the pair found the right wall streaked with thin, squeeky ice which provided a bold lead, similar to the crux of Minus One Gully, only a tad harder and graded VI,6.
West Buttress.
Left Edge, 200m II was soled by Nisbet on the 2nd Dec 2007 and essentially follows a groove avoiding the undercut base of the buttress close to Col Gully, then by various grooves in the crest to a final steepening.
GARBH CHOIRE DHAIDH
West Face.
Sorbet, 250m III. Nick Carter, A.Nisbet and J.Preston on 19th Dec 2007. This takes a line of icey grooves on the left side of the largest buttress (between Pea Soup and Chewing The Fat).
Crystal, 250m, A.Nisbet, 17th Dec 2007. To the left of Pea Soup, a stepped narrow groove holds ice. No cornice present in the lean icey conditions.
For those of you looking for an adventure at a more modest level, then cast your eyes over some of Andy Nisbet's recent contributions in the Cairngorms. The route Sparkler on Sgoran Dubh Mor for example receives an enthusiastic report.
GLEANN EINICH
Sue Wood on the upper part of Diamond Buttress after the ascent of Sparkler.
photo: with thanks and copyright to Andy Nisbet
Sgoran Dubh Mor, Fan Corrie.
Noggin the Nog, 100m III,4. Brian Davison and A.Nisbet, 13th Nov 2007. This route follows a narrow buttress right of Diamond Buttress, just left of the main gully.
Sparkler, 200m, III, Dave McGimpsey, A.Nisbet, Sue Wood, 11th Jan 2008. An excellent route based on Bell's original line on Diamond Buttress. The highlight being a superb narrow crest leading to the top.
Clangers, 100m, II, B.Davison, A.Nisbet, 13th Nov 2007. A high buttress directly above the main gully which forms the left-side of Diamond Buttress. Blocky with short technical moves above ledges!
Silver Rib, 250m, II, A.Nisbet 15th Jan 2008. The long rib left of Diamond Buttress with a 'helpful' right-facing corner for a crux.
LAIRIG GHRU
Sron na Lairige.
Kasbah, 160m, V,5, D.McGimpsey, A.Nisbet, Sue Wood, 12th Jan 2008. The left of three groove systems on the right face of Lairig Ridge. The crux is the third pitch being much harder than the rest.
Pupster, 140m III, D.McGimpsey, S.Wood, 22nd Jan 2008. A thin groove left of Gormless to join that route briefly, finishing up left fork to reach Lairig Ridge.
Ghrusome, 200m, V,6, John Lyall, A.Nisbet, 7th Jan 2008. Takes the left-hand of two ridges located on a sector of cliff north of the Lairig Ridge area.
Polar Bear, 200m, IV,5, J.Lyall, A.Nisbet, 6th Jan 2008. The right-hand of the two ridges.
LURCHERS CRAG.
Arctic Monkey 300m III,4. S.Allan, A.Nisbet. 6th January 2008.
The ridge on the left of Central Gully.
Dotterel 130m V,5. S.Allan, A.Nisbet. 6th January 2008.
The ridge immediately right of Central Gully.
The following routes are ridges described heading north from South Gully. Approach by descending South Gully to where it opens out, then traversing a ledge northwards to below the ridges.
Husky 150m III,4. A.Nisbet. 3rd December 2007.
The nearest ridge on the north side of South Gully has many fine torquing moves and jammed flakes, best when well frozen and not too dry. Much of the climbing is escapable but still entertaining.
Piggie in the Middle 120m III,6. J.Lyall, A.Nisbet. 10th December 2007.
A subsidiary ridge which lies between Husky and Doorway Ridge, but starts 60m up the depression between the two.
Doorway Ridge 200m IV,5. J.Lyall, A.Nisbet. 8th December 2007.
The second ridge on the north side of South Gully..
Ptarmigan Ridge 200m III. S.Allan, A.Nisbet. 9th December 2007.
The third ridge is tackled via a groove in the centre of its steep lower section.
Sweep 200m III. J.Lyall, A.Nisbet. 10th December 2007.
The fourth ridge has a wider base undercut by a smooth overhanging wall.
Summit Ridge 250m II. A.Nisbet. 8th December 2008.
A long but scrappy route with many of the difficulties optional. Traverse from South Gully to beyond the upper gully of Window Gully.
Reindeer Ridge 150m III. A.Nisbet. 10th January 2008.
The next ridge north is the first ridge right of Dotterel.
Pinnacle Ridge 150m II. A.Nisbet. 9th November 2007.
The ridge right (south) of South Gully.
Punchdrunk 130m III. A.Nisbet. 8th December 2008.
A broad buttress just left of Drystane Ridge. This climbs its left edge.
Pug Face 130m II. A.Nisbet. 3rd December 2007.
This climbs its right side.
Hound of the Baskervilles 150m IV,5. A.Nisbet, J.Preston. 9th November 2007.
A prominent ridge between Collie’s and Deerhound Ridges gives good climbing but easy ground lies close on the left.
THE NORTHERN COIRES
Coire An T-Sneachda, Fluted Buttress.
Lambada, 130m, IV,5, J.Lyall, A.Nisbet, J.Preston, 1th Dec 2007. This is a direct line through Wavelength to join the crest overlooking Spiral Gully and finishing up Wavelength.
Coire An Lochain, No.1 Buttress.
Circumvent, 60m, V,7, J.Prseton, Martin Moran, A.Nisbet, 26th Nov 2007. A steep groove between the big corner of Inventive and the groove of Adventure.
No.2 Buttress
The rib between Ventilation and Chute Route fell to Nisbet and Lyall to give Cyber Space, 100m, V,6, Jan 30th 2008. And proving that worthwhile new route potential still exists in the Northern Coires, you just have to know where to find them.
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS CENTRAL
A Mhaighean: Pillar Buttress.
Simon Richardson and Roger Webb have climbed the crest of Pillar Buttress to give The Great Game, VII,7, which provided six excellent pitches in an outstanding position. Richardson remarked that climbing a route on what many people consider to be one of Scotland's remotest munros proved to be logistically complex, with the approach over the summit taking over nine hours, the route eight, and the walk out another seven. Now that's impressive!
Strathfarrar, Sgurr na Fearstaig, South Top, East Face
D.McGimpsey, A.Nisbet, J.R.MacKenzie and N.Wilson, 19th Jan 2008, made a winter ascent of White Wizard (a summer Severe taking the right edge of the big slabby wall right of The Sorcerer), and was said to provide a fine and intricate route with an excellent second pitch.
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS SOUTH:
Beinn Eighe, Far East Wall.
Ian Parnell leading pitch one of Sundance.
photo: with thanks an c opyright to Guy Robertson.
Guy Robertson on pitch two of Sundance
Photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Robertson.
Sundance VIII,8 received its first winter ascent on Jan the 10th 2008 and has been described by first ascentionists Ian Parnell and Guy Robertson as "a contender for the best mixed route in Scotland, for sure!" Sundance is a summer E2 (5a,5b,5a) and is one of those rare winter lines that is gently overhanging with vegetated cracks and otherwise clean rock. The route which features a pitch of 6, two of 8 and one of 7 has been described as truly outstanding - thin and delicate, then pumpy and intimidating on pitch two (prob crux), then super sustained and utterly sensational on pitch three. The latter is one of the most "out there" pitches I've done in Scotland in winter, enthused a suitably impressed Parnell. There was a thirty foot damoclean fang of ice hanging over the lip (a characteristic feature of the route in winter), which proved vital on reaching the belay.
ISLE OF SKYE:
Biblical views over the Cullin Ridge
photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Robertson.
Sgurr Mhic Coininch.
Dawn Grooves, VIII,8, Jan 17th 2008. Abseiling in from the big spike at the col (of Rotton Gully) and starting the climb at 9 o'clock, Mark Garthwaite and Guy Robertson (now climbing on his 2nd consecutive day after Sundance on Beinn Eighe), blazed the first winter ascent of Dawn Grooves in a superb nine hour push. The climb yielded a pitch of 6, three of 7 and two of 8, all very sustained with generally excellent protection. The first four pitches of Dawn Grooves were followed to below the steep ‘15m wall’, then right to a rib, then straight up to belay beneath a big cracked block. A rightward trend then took them into an obvious recessed groove with a turfy grotto at its base. This led to the top in a big 40m pitch which was described by Guy as awesome - a tough 10m hard corner crack right below the summit ridge - all very exciting in the dark!
Mark Garthwaite on pitch one of Dawn Grooves, probably the crux of the route.
photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Robertson.
Guy Robertson on pitch four of Dawn Grooves
photo: with thanks and copyright to Mark Garthwaite.
The inevitable battle at dusk - leaving only a quick abseil back for tea and medals at the col!
photo: with thanks and copyright to Guy Roberston.
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS:
Aonach Mor:
Coire an Lochain, Twins Area
White Horses, 120m, V,6, A.Nisbet, I. Parnell, 29th Dec 2007. The rib on the right side of the face, right of Right Twin and White Bait and left of the ice fall of The Slever.
North Buttress
Slipstream, 140m, IV,5, A.Nisbet, J.Preston, 23rd Dec 2007. This takes the line of a wide easy angled slot with a distinctive overhanging top to the left of Grooved Arete, but avoiding the overhanging section well to the right.
The Ribbed Walls
Jet Lag, 70m, III was climbed by Sandy Allan, Alan Dennis, Cath Grindrod and Andy Nisbet on 29th Jan 2008, and takes a roof-capped icy groove right of Castaway and is recommended after a substantial thaw when the cornice has collapsed.
Shark Walls
The same team climbed Wise Goat, 110m IV,5 on 29th Jan 2008 which takes an ice line that forms right of Hammerhead Pillar, issuing from the final section of Gondola From the Wind.
Aonach Beag:
Chandelle Wall, Raw Egg Buttress.
Just after Christmas, Simon Richardson and Ian Small climbed a 'spicy' little number up the right edge of this wall with climbing that is said to be steep and sustained with a difficult roof and bold technical 8. Grade uncertain but sounds hard!
GLENCOE AREA:
Aonach Mor:
Coire an Lochain, Twins Area
White Horses, 120m, V,6, A.Nisbet, I. Parnell, 29th Dec 2007. The rib on the right side of the face, right of Right Twin and White Bait and left of the ice fall of The Slever.
North Buttress
Slipstream, 140m, IV,5, A.Nisbet, J.Preston, 23rd Dec 2007. This takes the line of a wide easy angled slot with a distinctive overhanging top to the left of Grooved Arete, but avoiding the overhanging section well to the right.
The Ribbed Walls
Jet Lag, 70m, III was climbed by Sandy Allan, Alan Dennis, Cath Grindrod and Andy Nisbet on 29th Jan 2008, and takes a roof-capped icy groove right of Castaway and is recommended after a substantial thaw when the cornice has collapsed.
Shark Walls
The same team climbed Wise Goat, 110m IV,5 on 29th Jan 2008 which takes an ice line that forms right of Hammerhead Pillar, issuing from the final section of Gondola From the Wind.
Aonach Beag:
Chandelle Wall, Raw Egg Buttress.
Just after Christmas, Simon Richardson and Ian Small climbed a 'spicy' little number up the right edge of this wall with climbing that is said to be steep and sustained with a difficult roof and bold technical 8. Grade uncertain but sounds hard!
GLENCOE AREA:
Conditions on Slime Wall, showing the line of Guerdon Grooves on 11th January 2008
Photo: copyright Cubby Images
Ballachulish Horseshoe.
Beneath the ridge above Glenachulish, Donald King and Mike Pescod climbed Peekaboo, VIII,8. This offers two challenging pitches. The first taking the line of an undercut overhang and steep cracked wall. while pitch two presented a tenuous and vertical section to finish. Not bad considering the pair were scouting the area for some middle grade climbs!
Beneath the ridge above Glenachulish, Donald King and Mike Pescod climbed Peekaboo, VIII,8. This offers two challenging pitches. The first taking the line of an undercut overhang and steep cracked wall. while pitch two presented a tenuous and vertical section to finish. Not bad considering the pair were scouting the area for some middle grade climbs!
Happy climbing!
Cubby
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