ARTICLES
Welcome to Cubby Images Articles. Each month we will be posting a new article to cover a variety of climbing topics. For future reference, all articles will be archived at the bottom of the page. If there's a topic you'd like us to cover, feel free to add a comment and we'll see what we can do.
COMMITTED - film review by Jo George
Thursday, November 08, 2007
After the huge success of the film E11, following the story of Dave MacLeod’s trials and tribulations during his attempts and final ascent of the word’s first E11, Rhapsody, the film makers, Hot Aches, had a hard act to follow.
Like Hard Grit, Rhapsody (and E11) propelled the UK’s hard trad climbing scene into the limelight and caught the attention of the climbing media worldwide. The Hot Aches team have now produced a second film about hard trad climbing with Committed – the title says it all!
Committed is the end result of a busy year’s filming of cutting edge traditional climbing from across the UK. It features some of the Britain’s top trad climbers, plus a handful from overseas, climbing some of the most difficult and dangerous climbs on the mountains and crags in Ireland, England’s Peak District, Wales and Scotland. Although I don’t feel this film has the strength of the story that E11 had (and I perhaps shouldn’t be comparing them), Committed still manages to get into the headspace of some of these top trad climbers which makes for interesting viewing, and watching their styles, techniques, method and motivation needed to achieve these hard first ascents, bold solos and audacious repeats, is certainly inspiring.
Dave MacLeod on the 3rd ascent of Trauma (E9) - an interesting comparison watching both James Pearson making the second and Dave making the 3rd.
Photo: copyright Hot Aches
The film covers a few of the hard trad routes of the 80’s and 90’s and it was good to see some of ‘the old school’ in the film, Dunne, Dawes and Dixon, all giving their thoughts on the climbs of today and proving they’re not past it yet either! Dave MacLeod turns his attention to Dawe’s 80’s test piece, Indian Face and after much deliberation, has to make a decision as to whether the risk involved in climbing such a route is worth it. The danger aspect of head-pointing at this level is apparent throughout the film and shows climbers pushing themselves to their limit, two ground falls, and Katherine Schirrmacher trying to make sense of why some climbers are good at this style of climbing and why more people aren’t hurting themselves.
The film covers a few of the hard trad routes of the 80’s and 90’s and it was good to see some of ‘the old school’ in the film, Dunne, Dawes and Dixon, all giving their thoughts on the climbs of today and proving they’re not past it yet either! Dave MacLeod turns his attention to Dawe’s 80’s test piece, Indian Face and after much deliberation, has to make a decision as to whether the risk involved in climbing such a route is worth it. The danger aspect of head-pointing at this level is apparent throughout the film and shows climbers pushing themselves to their limit, two ground falls, and Katherine Schirrmacher trying to make sense of why some climbers are good at this style of climbing and why more people aren’t hurting themselves.
Katherine Schirrmacher, the first British woman to climb E8
Photo: copyright Hot Aches
We follow an interesting mix of personalities in their quest for that hard trad tick, including cool American, Sonnie Trotter, attempting Rhapsody; Adam Long demonstrating his immaculate grit stone technique with E6 and E8 solos and Aussie climber Ben Cossey chatting casually as he solos up a grit E8. Women are represented, both in a supportive role to their partners and at the cutting edge. Germany’s Jude Spanken on-sights Wales’ classic Lord of the Flies (a bold and serious E6) in beautiful style, while Katherine talks herself successfully up a delicate E7 arete in the Peak. Throughout the film we follow in more depth, the climbs being done by two of the leading trad climbers of today, James Pearson and Dave MacLeod. James is an exceptionally modest and talented young climber who achievements include climbing E10 at age 19 (with Equilibrium) and flashing V13 twice. Dave of course has climbed E11 and is renowned as one of the world’s best all-rounders. Watching them trying the hardest lines, often in less than ideal conditions (and in the dark!), is intriguing.
Adam Long on-off Angels Share (E8)
Photo: copyright Hot Aches
However, this film isn’t all about the hardest lines being climbed, it’s as much about being “committed” and Kev Shields shows a shining example of that. Kev has much of his left hand missing and as such finds it difficult to place gear and use certain holds. Despite this handicap, he puts his life on the line for his enjoyment of the sport. We also follow other Scots to the remote island of Pabbay and show commitment in another sense with frightening new routing on these spectacular sea cliffs.
The locations in the film are varied and really show the diversity and climbing styles that make the British trad scene so unique and respected around the world. The footage of the beautiful island of Pabbay made me proud to be Scottish, while America’s Trotter’s remarks that Dumbarton Rock is a beautiful place left me smiling! Those who have been to Dumbarton Rock will know why.
Unlike many climbing films, the pace of Committed is slow to steady, not hyped up. The people and climbs make it, not loud motivating music. The filming is unpretentious with some sensitive footage, the climbers are modest and the storyline, which examines the diversity of climbing style and locations, that together make the British trad scene unique and respected around the world, is an interesting one. The Extras however were a little disappointing with the exception of Keen Youth. All in all, a very good film, definitely worth purchasing, and one which you will watch over and over again. (I’ve watched it four times total so far!).
And finally I’d have to say the Hot Aches team must have been as Committed as the climbers in this film – a lot of climbs to film in one year given the diverse locations and the good old British weather. Nice one boys!
Committed is on sale now from http://www.hotaches.com/ at £19.99
Unlike many climbing films, the pace of Committed is slow to steady, not hyped up. The people and climbs make it, not loud motivating music. The filming is unpretentious with some sensitive footage, the climbers are modest and the storyline, which examines the diversity of climbing style and locations, that together make the British trad scene unique and respected around the world, is an interesting one. The Extras however were a little disappointing with the exception of Keen Youth. All in all, a very good film, definitely worth purchasing, and one which you will watch over and over again. (I’ve watched it four times total so far!).
And finally I’d have to say the Hot Aches team must have been as Committed as the climbers in this film – a lot of climbs to film in one year given the diverse locations and the good old British weather. Nice one boys!
Committed is on sale now from http://www.hotaches.com/ at £19.99
How to Climb Hard Trad - a review by Jo George
Wednesday, November 07, 2007
I think I’m one of those slightly cynical climbers who tend to dismiss like the idea of learning through books or videos – surely climbing is about getting out there and learning for yourself and being creative, coming up with your own methods. I have tended to shun books such as How to Climb 5.12 and Rockfax’s SportClimbing (The positive approach to improving your climbing), without having even read them through. For me personally it’s the unknown in climbing which I enjoy. I like to learn through my own experiences (and mistakes) and that’s probably why it’s taken me so long to learn many of the basics. I quickly learnt how to move on rock but it took years to learn how to set up a belay properly and even now I only know three knots. I think that’s called stubbornness, perhaps even stupidity.
Maybe I’m trying to rebel against what I see as this modern day’s ‘nanny’ culture where everything is laid out on a plate, minimal effort. How many times have I heard the old folk say you can’t find good hard workers these days! Pre packaged food, automated phone systems, we don’t even like walking to the post box anymore, it’s all texts and e-mails (now I’m diverging and sounding old)! Maybe this attitude is behind the times or a tad ignorant or arrogant (why don’t I want to learn from those with the experience)…or maybe I just prefer to learn my own way. Perhaps it’s a tad hypocritical too as I’ve picked up books on how to make pebble mosaics or how to work with green wood, so what’s the difference with a book on how to climb?
Maybe I’m trying to rebel against what I see as this modern day’s ‘nanny’ culture where everything is laid out on a plate, minimal effort. How many times have I heard the old folk say you can’t find good hard workers these days! Pre packaged food, automated phone systems, we don’t even like walking to the post box anymore, it’s all texts and e-mails (now I’m diverging and sounding old)! Maybe this attitude is behind the times or a tad ignorant or arrogant (why don’t I want to learn from those with the experience)…or maybe I just prefer to learn my own way. Perhaps it’s a tad hypocritical too as I’ve picked up books on how to make pebble mosaics or how to work with green wood, so what’s the difference with a book on how to climb?
Well Dave MacLeod e-mailed (I’d call him lazy for not walking to that post box if he hadn’t climbed E11! ; ) to see if I wanted to review his new 42-page e-book, How to Climb Hard Trad. This book was written as a companion to the new Committed film (see review at www……..). My first thought was oh no, surely you learn how to climb ‘hard trad’ through experience and dedication, not through a book telling you how to do it! But that is not necessarily Dave’s aim. In his own words, Dave felt that "the film was a great showcase of what is going on right now at the living end of world trad climbing. Inspiring stuff – but I know from experience as a coach that some climbers will watch the action thinking "I could never do that". I hope from reading these chapters you will see that the ascents in the film are not really as impossible as they seem, merely the end result of a process of actions that anyone can follow. You can if you want to".So I started reading and truth be told, from the first page my interest was captured.
Dave has several great credentials for writing such a mini book; he is one of the best traditional climbers in the world; he has a degree in sports psychology; his motivation is legendary and he is an excellent writer. Although the e-book is called how to climb ‘hard’ trad, it is actually aimed at climbers of all abilities, as what is hard for one climber may not be for another. In fact Dave writes, "beginners have far more to gain from adoption of good tactics because performance is so sensitive to even the smallest improvements in practice at this stage". His belief is that by applying the techniques and mindsets along with a large amount of dedication and a desire to want to get better, a climber of any ability could climb hard trad. The "desire" to want to is key and Dave writes "ultimately, pure desire to get better and experience the good feelings this brings will end up as your limiting factor".
The book is in three parts entitled 1) How to on-sight hard trad, 2) Head-pointing – why bother? And 3) Head-pointing – the guide. In part one Dave explains what on-sight climbing is and what you can do to help "tip the scales in your favour". This includes gathering information about the climb before your attempt (but not too much because it is on-sight!), dealing with danger, motivation and boldness and getting committed. He offers much useful advice on tactics, techniques, thought processes and practical methods for the climber to consider, including how to get over the fear of falling (which in many cases is what limits us).
In part one I found it very interesting to read psychologists theories on motivation and I think whether these theories are applied to climbing or all aspects of life (or both), it’s worth reading.In part two Dave explains what a climber can gain from in experience, learning and enjoyment by head-pointing climbs, and not only at the highest levels. And in part three he talks us through choosing the right climb to get you inspired, how to head-point without a belayer (very useful), strategies of rehearsing the climb, mental preparation and making it as safe as possible. Again I enjoyed reading his psychological strategies for the final head-point attempt, " the silent mind" versus the "aggressive psyche up", versus " the white noise psyche" (you’ll have to read it yourself to find out what the latter one is!).
All in all this e-book gives a great an insight into what steps you can take to improve your grade, your technique, and get pleasure out trying hard, whether you want to apply this to the hardest, boldest routes or not. I would say it’s definitely worth a read and you’ll learn something new at whatever level you’re at. An inspiring and educational read and by the end of the book I was really quite motivated and inspired to have a go at head-pointing myself.
By looking at what Dave himself has achieved, we can opt to follow his hard won advice and learn for our own improvement. So can reading this book lead to great grades? ... yes, if you want it enough!
Now maybe I’ll read SportClimbing+ !
END
The How to Climb Hard Trad e-book is free when you order the new Committed DVD. This 42 page A4 printable PDF e-book will be emailed to you once your order is confirmed - it won’t be available anywhere else. To order your copy of the film visit http://www.davemacleod.com/
The How to Climb Hard Trad e-book is free when you order the new Committed DVD. This 42 page A4 printable PDF e-book will be emailed to you once your order is confirmed - it won’t be available anywhere else. To order your copy of the film visit http://www.davemacleod.com/
E11 review and interview
Friday, October 13, 2006
All photos copyright Hotaches, 2006
It’s been a few days now since I watched E11, the story of Dave MacLeod’s obsession, failures and final success on Rhapsody at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, a route considered to be the world’s hardest single pitch traditional climb. I thought I’d let my thoughts settle before writing this review.
To my mind, the sign of a good film is surely one which stays in your thoughts for some days after the viewing, memorable perhaps by way of a strong story line, or one which touches you on a more emotional or intellectual level. Over the last couple of days my thoughts have drifted back to the film on numerous occasions. The story line is good – following the trails and tribulations of a top climber and his two-year quest to climb a new line up the blank looking headwall at the infamous urban, grafittied Dumbarton Rock. The story encompasses not only his attempts, but the obsession which goes with trying a route of this level, the emotions of successes and failures, then blood curdling screams and injuries; the uncertainty of whether the line is possible at all.
Dave training on the door frame in his modest Dumbarton flat (the grunts from pulling hard made neighbours wonder what was going on in there!)
As the pressure of the climb builds so to does the pressure on Dave himself and on his relationship with his wife, Claire. During the filming Dave acknowledges that “basically this route’s totally taken over my life”, and there are some great extracts from Claire, who while being very supportive towards his overriding ambition, also openly admits that she was “beginning to lose the plot with him about it. You can tell he’s not really talking to you, he’s going through moves in his head and he just kinda glazes over in every waking moment and most of his sleeping moments”. As a viewer it occasionally felt as if I was prying into their private lives, watching them in their modest flat in Dumbarton, in bed, doing DIY and listening to their thoughts about their lives …. not quite Eastenders, but it has the same effect of making you feel you’re looking in on something that you maybe shouldn’t be – and leaving you wanting more!
Dave's wife, Claire, belaying and looking a tad concerned at her husband's rock antics!
When it comes to the actual climbing scenes, this is no slick movie about doing desperate moves and looking stylishly polished.
Dave moving smoothly through the crux moves on lead.
No! After a protracted effort of sussing the sequence, Dave finally top ropes it in one go. His revelation quickly turns to realisation of what this means when he remarks “now I’ve got to fuckin lead it!” From here on there’s slapping for finishing holds some 35 feet above his last runner, holds breaking, rp’s snapping, screamers, frustration, injuries and (look away) even some blood!
Paying the consequences of a bad fall - a knackered ankle meant a few days rest.
Cubby capturing the fall on camera - one minute he was in the lens, the next a long way down!
It’s a serious undertaking and Dave soon decides to take a more cautious approach by wearing a helmet and on that very day he crashes violently into the wall saying afterwards “the helmet will be staying for forthcoming attempts”. There’s a superb long shot where you witness the true length of the falls he is taking – time to think! As Dave says humorously – “I’m definitely earning my 11 e-points”.
Whizzing through the air again - and looking surprisingly relaxed!
There is a high tension throughout the film but this is interrupted regularly by interviews with Claire, Cubby, comrade Niall McNair and Dave’s belayer. There are some nice touches such as a ‘live on-location’ rapper and some amusing scene setting snippets such as dogs playing catch with beer cans, grafitti spraying and the infamous Dumbarton youths (aka young Neds).
Dumbarton youths keen to get in on a bit of the action.
Then finally, on a cold April day on his10th lead attempt, Dave finally nails the route - Rhapsody E11 is in the bag! As the viewer I almost feel as ecstatic as him! Suddenly I realise I’ve been sitting tense in anticipation throughout the film….now I can breathe in and relax!
At last ...... SUCCESS!
Despite the fact we’ve all heard and read about Dave climbing E11, until you’ve watched the film you can’t really imagine what achieving that level really involves. This short film (41 minutes) does a fantastic job of following Dave on the eventual success of this monumental achievement and I would highly recommend it, regardless of what level you climb. It’s a great story of someone’s desire to succeed no matter what! Dave finishes by saying “I’m just totally relieved and looking forward to whatever’s next”. And I’m sure Claire just sighs in relief – life can be normal once again….until the next time….
I wonder if there will be a sequel?
Well! ‘Hats Off’ to Dave for doing the route and also ‘Hats Off’ to Paul Diffley and Dave Brown (Hot Aches) for their dedication toward filming it and sharing it with us. It took them over two years, 500 hours of editing from 50+ hours of footage but they’ve succeeded in producing a truly fine and memorable movie. As with Stone Monkey, I’m sure E11 will quickly become a classic.
The boys were kept busy in the editing room but it paid dividends!
Reviewed by Jo George, October 2006
Paul Diff sitting it out on one of his many days filming of Rhapsody.
Jo: Dave and Paul firstly congratulations on this film, fantastic! - you must be very proud of it, and somewhat relieved that it’s in the bag?
Paul: Thanks Jo, we are both really pleased with the film. We had some pretty special footage and an amazing story, so the challenge was to do justice to it all in the final film.
Dave B: We managed to get it finished on schedule which was great, but the relief stage never really happens because you immediately move onto the worry stage of "what will people think of it?"
Jo: How long did filming take from start to finish?
Paul: We spent about 50 days filming, starting at the point that Dave seriously began to work the route and through to his success about a year later.
Jo: Were you there for every one of Dave’s lead attempts?
Dave B: We had to be there on every lead attempt no matter how difficult that was logistically. A film just wouldn’t be the same if you missed out on the day of success. It would impossible to re-create for the camera the genuine reactions and emotions from the occasion that Dave succeeded. In this case it would also be impossible to re-film the route in parts because the hardest section was so long and dangerous.
Paul: Absolutely, Dave MacLeod couldn’t wait around for a camera crew to be available. If he was feeling fit and the conditions were good he was going to have an attempt whether we where there or not. It certainly put some pressure on us. At the time I also had other work commitments and had to take a lot sick days. In fact by the spring my employer was becoming suspicious and I was considering inventing a more convincing illness which would require multiple days off… something like irritable bowel syndrome. Luckily for me and my bowel, Dave sent the route before it came to that.
Jo: How did you feel when you saw Dave’s first lead fall?
Paul: I can remember just thinking “Oh F*ck!” but I was also concentrating on my camera work, trying to keep him in frame. I think watching events through a viewfinder gives you a slightly detached perspective. As Dave continued to take falls it became harder and harder to watch.
Jo: Did you ever feel you could be putting Dave off (by that I mean perhaps making him lose concentration or putting added pressure on him) by having a camera pointing at him on these serious attempts?
Dave B. We talked to Dave about this. He says that he sometimes finds photographers distracting because they are moving around and clicking away, but film cameras are different because they are a bit further away and also the filming operation is silent and not moving around much. I suppose that we were also a permanent feature on this route so it became quite normal.
Paul: I'm not sure about pressure, I think Dave wanted to succeed so much that a camera crew didn't really add to it.
Jo: Did you have a storyline prepared before you started filming, or did the story emerge as you filmed it?
Dave B: Paul wrote an initial screenplay for the film with some valuable help from a North Face scholarship to the film school at Banff. It might sound strange to people that a documentary has a script in advance but it is really important to plan a film otherwise you end up missing shots that you will need.
Paul: After the initial plan the story obviously evolved but it was very much the structure that we had wanted.
Jo: Whose idea was it to get a live rapper in? (nice touch).
Dave B: All the creative flair in the E11 is very much from Paul. He has lots of crazy ideas, but rather than thinking ‘your mad’ we go along and film it and most of the time it works and makes it into the final edit.
Paul: Glad you liked the Rapper. I had planned to use some of MC Hasta’s music from early on in the film’s production as it fitted well with the urban feel of Dumbarton Rock. He does make one or two appearances on screen in different scenes during the film.
Jo: It’s good to see more Scottish climbers being shown on film now. Why did you choose to film Dave in particular, was it him as a climber or his attempt on this climb that captured your imagination? Do you think it’ll make the rest of the country wake up to what’s happening in Scotland now?
Dave B. We have been filming quite a number of climbers from Scotland, as have some other film-makers. Dave is just one of several that are doing interesting stuff to a high standard. His objective to climb Rhapsody of course really stood out and fired the imagination though.
Paul: The film was originally to be about the route and what it takes to climb at the top level. But inevitably this then becomes about the climber as well.
Dave B: We didn’t set out to make any statement about Scottish climbing, We simply had a good story to tell. However I think that inevitably the film will increase the interest in what is happening in Scotland. It is curious that most are the hardest trad. first ascents and repeats in the last few years have been away from the grit, in Scotland and The Lakes, courtesy of Daves; MacLeod and Birkett.
Jo: What were you trying to achieve/capture in this film?
Paul: This is very much a study of "what does it take to climb such a hard route?" I guess that people will judge to what extent we achieved this objective. We also set out to make the film accessible to a wider audience rather than just climbers, but without detracting from it being a good climbing film.
Jo: Paul did you and Dave have similar ideas on how to edit the film, or did you both have to give and take a bit?
Paul: One person leads and owns each film project otherwise you would go around in circles. The other person is heavily involved in reviewing and suggesting ideas and that works well.
Jo: How much time was spent in the editing room?
Paul: I’d say at about 500 hours, maybe many more. We had well over 50 hours of footage.(see pic) which is a lot to work through. In the past I’ve always had to fit editing around other work commitments. This time I could focus fully and was editing fairly solidly from June to September.
Jo: Which is your most memorable part of the film?
Paul: My favourite scene is where Dave hobbles back home from the crag and tries to down-play the extent of his injuries from his wife, Claire.
Dave B: For me the brief clips of Claire were tremendous. Her comments really added a whole extra dimension to the film.
Jo: How is the film being accepted by the media/ press?
Dave B. Since we launched the trailer on Planet Fear the amount of interest has been quite staggering. At this stage it is a bit early to say, but the initial reviews of the film have been really good so we are quite hopeful that it will go down well.
Jo: What is your personal favourite climbing film(s) and why? (both answer please)
Paul: I'm a big fan of Stone Monkey; great sound track, some awesome climbing and Johnny is such an engaging character on screen. I'm also a big fan of the work of Alastair Lee & David Halsted. I think 'Storms the Movie' is comic genius.
Dave B. For me it has to be Slackjaw’s Hard Grit for many reasons. It set a new standard in climbing films which really hasn’t been surpassed in the decade since. The film also had a big impact on me at the time as a climber. It was a complete revelation to witness the strange world of hard climbing and it is the only film that I regularly re-watch.
Jo: Are you working on any new films now, any future plans?
Dave B: Several film projects are at various stages of progress at the moment. We plan to bring out one or two main films a year. We have some superb footage already so the next six months are a busy time for filming in order to bring one or two to completion. These projects range from trad and sport climbing, winter climbing and also some other ‘adventure sports’.
Jo: Which film festivals are you taking the film to?
Paul: The first screening is at the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival on October 21st. This is of course our 'home festival' so we'll have at lot of friends and folk who contributed to the film attending. I'm really looking forward to hearing the collective reaction of 500 people to some of the more 'exciting footage'.
We are also taking the film to Banff in November, which is always a great buzz to attend. After that it will also show at Kendal, which has the best party of them all.
It’s been a few days now since I watched E11, the story of Dave MacLeod’s obsession, failures and final success on Rhapsody at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, a route considered to be the world’s hardest single pitch traditional climb. I thought I’d let my thoughts settle before writing this review.
To my mind, the sign of a good film is surely one which stays in your thoughts for some days after the viewing, memorable perhaps by way of a strong story line, or one which touches you on a more emotional or intellectual level. Over the last couple of days my thoughts have drifted back to the film on numerous occasions. The story line is good – following the trails and tribulations of a top climber and his two-year quest to climb a new line up the blank looking headwall at the infamous urban, grafittied Dumbarton Rock. The story encompasses not only his attempts, but the obsession which goes with trying a route of this level, the emotions of successes and failures, then blood curdling screams and injuries; the uncertainty of whether the line is possible at all.
Dave training on the door frame in his modest Dumbarton flat (the grunts from pulling hard made neighbours wonder what was going on in there!)
As the pressure of the climb builds so to does the pressure on Dave himself and on his relationship with his wife, Claire. During the filming Dave acknowledges that “basically this route’s totally taken over my life”, and there are some great extracts from Claire, who while being very supportive towards his overriding ambition, also openly admits that she was “beginning to lose the plot with him about it. You can tell he’s not really talking to you, he’s going through moves in his head and he just kinda glazes over in every waking moment and most of his sleeping moments”. As a viewer it occasionally felt as if I was prying into their private lives, watching them in their modest flat in Dumbarton, in bed, doing DIY and listening to their thoughts about their lives …. not quite Eastenders, but it has the same effect of making you feel you’re looking in on something that you maybe shouldn’t be – and leaving you wanting more!
Dave's wife, Claire, belaying and looking a tad concerned at her husband's rock antics!
When it comes to the actual climbing scenes, this is no slick movie about doing desperate moves and looking stylishly polished.
Dave moving smoothly through the crux moves on lead.
No! After a protracted effort of sussing the sequence, Dave finally top ropes it in one go. His revelation quickly turns to realisation of what this means when he remarks “now I’ve got to fuckin lead it!” From here on there’s slapping for finishing holds some 35 feet above his last runner, holds breaking, rp’s snapping, screamers, frustration, injuries and (look away) even some blood!
Paying the consequences of a bad fall - a knackered ankle meant a few days rest.
At times you almost wish he’d give up – you almost cannot bare to watch him taking another whipper (but he does, a huge number of them in fact) and after one fall from the finishing moves, yells out in frustration - “what the fuck do I have to do!”
Cubby capturing the fall on camera - one minute he was in the lens, the next a long way down!
It’s a serious undertaking and Dave soon decides to take a more cautious approach by wearing a helmet and on that very day he crashes violently into the wall saying afterwards “the helmet will be staying for forthcoming attempts”. There’s a superb long shot where you witness the true length of the falls he is taking – time to think! As Dave says humorously – “I’m definitely earning my 11 e-points”.
Whizzing through the air again - and looking surprisingly relaxed!
There is a high tension throughout the film but this is interrupted regularly by interviews with Claire, Cubby, comrade Niall McNair and Dave’s belayer. There are some nice touches such as a ‘live on-location’ rapper and some amusing scene setting snippets such as dogs playing catch with beer cans, grafitti spraying and the infamous Dumbarton youths (aka young Neds).
Dumbarton youths keen to get in on a bit of the action.
Then finally, on a cold April day on his10th lead attempt, Dave finally nails the route - Rhapsody E11 is in the bag! As the viewer I almost feel as ecstatic as him! Suddenly I realise I’ve been sitting tense in anticipation throughout the film….now I can breathe in and relax!
At last ...... SUCCESS!Despite the fact we’ve all heard and read about Dave climbing E11, until you’ve watched the film you can’t really imagine what achieving that level really involves. This short film (41 minutes) does a fantastic job of following Dave on the eventual success of this monumental achievement and I would highly recommend it, regardless of what level you climb. It’s a great story of someone’s desire to succeed no matter what! Dave finishes by saying “I’m just totally relieved and looking forward to whatever’s next”. And I’m sure Claire just sighs in relief – life can be normal once again….until the next time….
I wonder if there will be a sequel?
Well! ‘Hats Off’ to Dave for doing the route and also ‘Hats Off’ to Paul Diffley and Dave Brown (Hot Aches) for their dedication toward filming it and sharing it with us. It took them over two years, 500 hours of editing from 50+ hours of footage but they’ve succeeded in producing a truly fine and memorable movie. As with Stone Monkey, I’m sure E11 will quickly become a classic.
The boys were kept busy in the editing room but it paid dividends!
Reviewed by Jo George, October 2006
INTERVIEW ON THE MAKING OF E11
Hot Aches is an Edinburgh based company comprising of two keen climbers and enthusiastic film makers, namely Dave Brown and Paul Diffley or “Diff”. Since they formed in 2003, the pair have made several films: Cavewoman (Banff and EMFF finalist); All Mixed Up and Fools With Tools. The duo are now focused full-time on the film and photography business.
Dave Brown acts as director and producer on many of the projects but is also an experienced cameraman and photographer. Dave has climbed for 18 years and has spent the majority of the last two years travelling and climbing abroad in Europe and North America.
Paul also directs, produces and shoots camera and is the main creative editor (this means he gets to suggest some whacky ideas!) ‘Diff’ is also a keen climber and mountain biker. His former career in IT has been left behind for a life of glamour and success!
Dave Brown relaxes on a rock trip abroad.
Paul Diff sitting it out on one of his many days filming of Rhapsody.
Jo: Dave and Paul firstly congratulations on this film, fantastic! - you must be very proud of it, and somewhat relieved that it’s in the bag?
Paul: Thanks Jo, we are both really pleased with the film. We had some pretty special footage and an amazing story, so the challenge was to do justice to it all in the final film.
Dave B: We managed to get it finished on schedule which was great, but the relief stage never really happens because you immediately move onto the worry stage of "what will people think of it?"
Jo: How long did filming take from start to finish?
Paul: We spent about 50 days filming, starting at the point that Dave seriously began to work the route and through to his success about a year later.
Jo: Were you there for every one of Dave’s lead attempts?
Dave B: We had to be there on every lead attempt no matter how difficult that was logistically. A film just wouldn’t be the same if you missed out on the day of success. It would impossible to re-create for the camera the genuine reactions and emotions from the occasion that Dave succeeded. In this case it would also be impossible to re-film the route in parts because the hardest section was so long and dangerous.
Paul: Absolutely, Dave MacLeod couldn’t wait around for a camera crew to be available. If he was feeling fit and the conditions were good he was going to have an attempt whether we where there or not. It certainly put some pressure on us. At the time I also had other work commitments and had to take a lot sick days. In fact by the spring my employer was becoming suspicious and I was considering inventing a more convincing illness which would require multiple days off… something like irritable bowel syndrome. Luckily for me and my bowel, Dave sent the route before it came to that.
Jo: How did you feel when you saw Dave’s first lead fall?
Paul: I can remember just thinking “Oh F*ck!” but I was also concentrating on my camera work, trying to keep him in frame. I think watching events through a viewfinder gives you a slightly detached perspective. As Dave continued to take falls it became harder and harder to watch.
Jo: Did you ever feel you could be putting Dave off (by that I mean perhaps making him lose concentration or putting added pressure on him) by having a camera pointing at him on these serious attempts?
Dave B. We talked to Dave about this. He says that he sometimes finds photographers distracting because they are moving around and clicking away, but film cameras are different because they are a bit further away and also the filming operation is silent and not moving around much. I suppose that we were also a permanent feature on this route so it became quite normal.
Paul: I'm not sure about pressure, I think Dave wanted to succeed so much that a camera crew didn't really add to it.
Jo: Did you have a storyline prepared before you started filming, or did the story emerge as you filmed it?
Dave B: Paul wrote an initial screenplay for the film with some valuable help from a North Face scholarship to the film school at Banff. It might sound strange to people that a documentary has a script in advance but it is really important to plan a film otherwise you end up missing shots that you will need.
Paul: After the initial plan the story obviously evolved but it was very much the structure that we had wanted.
Jo: Whose idea was it to get a live rapper in? (nice touch).
Dave B: All the creative flair in the E11 is very much from Paul. He has lots of crazy ideas, but rather than thinking ‘your mad’ we go along and film it and most of the time it works and makes it into the final edit.
Paul: Glad you liked the Rapper. I had planned to use some of MC Hasta’s music from early on in the film’s production as it fitted well with the urban feel of Dumbarton Rock. He does make one or two appearances on screen in different scenes during the film.
Jo: It’s good to see more Scottish climbers being shown on film now. Why did you choose to film Dave in particular, was it him as a climber or his attempt on this climb that captured your imagination? Do you think it’ll make the rest of the country wake up to what’s happening in Scotland now?
Dave B. We have been filming quite a number of climbers from Scotland, as have some other film-makers. Dave is just one of several that are doing interesting stuff to a high standard. His objective to climb Rhapsody of course really stood out and fired the imagination though.
Paul: The film was originally to be about the route and what it takes to climb at the top level. But inevitably this then becomes about the climber as well.
Dave B: We didn’t set out to make any statement about Scottish climbing, We simply had a good story to tell. However I think that inevitably the film will increase the interest in what is happening in Scotland. It is curious that most are the hardest trad. first ascents and repeats in the last few years have been away from the grit, in Scotland and The Lakes, courtesy of Daves; MacLeod and Birkett.
Jo: What were you trying to achieve/capture in this film?
Paul: This is very much a study of "what does it take to climb such a hard route?" I guess that people will judge to what extent we achieved this objective. We also set out to make the film accessible to a wider audience rather than just climbers, but without detracting from it being a good climbing film.
Jo: Paul did you and Dave have similar ideas on how to edit the film, or did you both have to give and take a bit?
Paul: One person leads and owns each film project otherwise you would go around in circles. The other person is heavily involved in reviewing and suggesting ideas and that works well.
Jo: How much time was spent in the editing room?
Paul: I’d say at about 500 hours, maybe many more. We had well over 50 hours of footage.(see pic) which is a lot to work through. In the past I’ve always had to fit editing around other work commitments. This time I could focus fully and was editing fairly solidly from June to September.
Jo: Which is your most memorable part of the film?
Paul: My favourite scene is where Dave hobbles back home from the crag and tries to down-play the extent of his injuries from his wife, Claire.
Dave B: For me the brief clips of Claire were tremendous. Her comments really added a whole extra dimension to the film.
Jo: How is the film being accepted by the media/ press?
Dave B. Since we launched the trailer on Planet Fear the amount of interest has been quite staggering. At this stage it is a bit early to say, but the initial reviews of the film have been really good so we are quite hopeful that it will go down well.
Jo: What is your personal favourite climbing film(s) and why? (both answer please)
Paul: I'm a big fan of Stone Monkey; great sound track, some awesome climbing and Johnny is such an engaging character on screen. I'm also a big fan of the work of Alastair Lee & David Halsted. I think 'Storms the Movie' is comic genius.
Dave B. For me it has to be Slackjaw’s Hard Grit for many reasons. It set a new standard in climbing films which really hasn’t been surpassed in the decade since. The film also had a big impact on me at the time as a climber. It was a complete revelation to witness the strange world of hard climbing and it is the only film that I regularly re-watch.
Jo: Are you working on any new films now, any future plans?
Dave B: Several film projects are at various stages of progress at the moment. We plan to bring out one or two main films a year. We have some superb footage already so the next six months are a busy time for filming in order to bring one or two to completion. These projects range from trad and sport climbing, winter climbing and also some other ‘adventure sports’.
Jo: Which film festivals are you taking the film to?
Paul: The first screening is at the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival on October 21st. This is of course our 'home festival' so we'll have at lot of friends and folk who contributed to the film attending. I'm really looking forward to hearing the collective reaction of 500 people to some of the more 'exciting footage'.
We are also taking the film to Banff in November, which is always a great buzz to attend. After that it will also show at Kendal, which has the best party of them all.
E11 on sale from 21st October. To buy the DVD visit http://www.hotaches.com
Boulder With A View
Friday, July 07, 2006
Tom Lee enjoying a fine summer's day in the Coe with splendid views of the Aonach Eagach as a backdrop. Photo: Cubby Images
As one of the main authors of an upcoming Scottish bouldering guide, I remember a year or so ago speaking to Kev Howett about some boulders I’d visited in Glencoe. He looked furtively at me and appeared not to know about ‘Elliots Boulders’. I’d nicknamed the boulders that as they lay scattered next to the old shepherd, Willie Elliot’s croft at Achnambeithach - that infamous, white picture-postcard croft dwarfed beneath Coire nam Beith (.... or opposite the turn-off to the Clachaig Inn).
The first time I’d visited these boulders was back in 2003 after an impromptu party at mine. A few lads from Edinburgh were climbing in the Coe and what started out as a quiet beer, ended in cocktail mayhem. Trevor Wood was the cocktail meister, apparently he’d served an apprenticeship in Hong Kong, and that night shook up some stunning numbers! The ‘morning after’ we drove into the Coe with a vague hope of climbing. Ali (Coull) headed up to E Buttress on Aonach Dubh to clear his head with a solo of Big Top (just the route for a hangover cure!), Trevor never made it out of the back of the car, while ‘Big Tom’ and myself went in search of some bouldering.
Across Loch Achtriochtan we found a smattering of boulders, a couple fairly large. Tom climbed a nice (but dirty) arete on one of the lower boulders and then we both played on a traverse on the largest boulder. Every movement made me feel sicker and eventually I decided to head home. I was glad to hear later that Ali, part way up Big Top, had suddenly decided that soloing was perhaps not such a good idea in his state and made a retreat.
A few weeks later I headed back on my own and saw, lying next to the main boulder, soaking up the sun’s rays, a beautiful fox. These animals with their long elegant noses and rich rust colouring have always intrigued me, however as soon as I saw it, it spotted me and darted off. I nicknamed this boulder ‘Foxy Boulder’. Foxy was a great place to chill out, do a few problems, lie in the grass and take in the stunning views of the Aonach Eagach Ridge. With such limited bouldering in the area, in 2005, I returned again with another friend (another Tom) with the aim of cleaning up a few boulders. We slung ropes over Foxy and cleaned her head to Toe.
Our first problem was perhaps the best, a traverse of about Font 6c (sorry I’m old fashioned and only know Font grades). We named it ‘Pub Crawl Traverse’, partly after my first drunken visit, and partly because of Cubby’s suggestion that it’d be a great problem to come and do before a night out at the Clachaig. The traverse was surprisingly good – a combo of slopers, crimps, pockets and stamina - certainly worth a visit. The side wall and front face also provided some good little problems.
Tom part way along the traverse.
Photo: Cubby Images
So, after chatting a little more to Kev, it transpired he did know of the boulders and my Foxy Boulder was already claimed as The Marie Celeste and our Pubcrawl Traverse was his Keel Hauled for Fun (although his traverse stops short of ours, it’s worth making the extra moves further left into the crack). Kev had visited three boulders and details of his problems are posted below. We've since added a few more lines but I'm sure you'll discover these yourself. There are also a couple of other boulders here that would give some good sport so if you’re heading over there, bring a mat and brush!
The text below was supplied courtesy of Kevin Howett and the photo topos have been adapted by topos sent in by Kev ©Rockart.
The Tender Boulder is hidden behined Marie Celeste in this photo.
Photo: with thanks to Kevin Howett
Loch Achtriochtan Boulders (142564) by Kev Howett
Sitting on the south west shore of the loch, are a collection of small boulders worthy of a visit. Park at the bridge leading across the River Coe to Achnambeithach. Walk round the edge of the loch to the boulders in 10mins. There are about 10 boulders on the hillside above the loch, split into two sections by a small stream. They receive the sun most of the day in summer but also get the evening rays. The most conspicuous boulder is The Marie Celeste which can be seen from the road as a large flat face. Further left across the small stream and scattered near the bottom edge of a scree slope, are further boulders and one very square-cut boulder sits on flat ground next to the loch itself.
The Marie Celeste
Shaped a bit like a boat, with a flat north face, an easy slabby south face (the descent) and the west end undercut leading to a ‘Poop Deck’ shaped back end, whilst the east end is a severely undercut prow. Problems are described right to left from the west end.
1 .Pooped V2 (6a) K Howett 2003
SS on an obvious big flat hold. Gain good holds in the lip directly above and pull onto the wall using a tiny edge.
2. Into the Fug V1 (5b) K Howett 2003
SS just to the left of the last route on a projecting ledge with a good incut hold on it. Using the sloping holds on the left side of the wall, pull over onto the upper wall using some small pockets.
3. Broadside V2 (5c) K Howett 2003
The right side of the north face. SS under the overhanging edge of the wall. Pull left onto the wall and climb direct up the bulge at the top.
4. Lanyard Tales V0 (5a) K Howett 2003
Climbs the most obvious ‘line’ up the centre of the north face. Climb through the line of the leaning scoop.
5. A Black Pearler V6 (6c) K Howett 2003
Under the front prow is only one small hold. SS using this and an undercling to the left. Span out right to small pockets in the lip and pull over using further better pockets above.
6. Captain Cock Sparrow V3 (6b) K Howett 2003
From the same holds as above, SS and gain the hold on the very lip of the prow. A Cheval to the top.
7. Keel Hauled for Fun V4 (6a/b) K Howett 2003
The Traverse. From Pooped, at low level to finish along the pockets in the lip of the roof of Black Pearler and up the prow of Captain Jack Sparrow.
Photo: with thanks to Kev Howett
Marie Celeste boulder on the left and The Tender Boulder to its right.
Photo: with thanks to Kev Howett
The left side of the Marie Celeste Boulder showing the end of the traverse (no.7)
Photo: with thanks to Kev Howett
The Tender Boulder
The big flat boulder lying beside The Marie Celeste and down which is the descent. It’s west end is a jutting prow.
8. Lanyarding V3 (6a) K Howett 2005
The traverse of the overhanging faces. Start bridged between the two boulders. Follow rounded holds over the lip and a obvious spike just under it, into the niche below Focus’all. Pass the big spike on the right and continue along a line on the lip to gain the slab near the right end.
9. Focus’all V1 (5b) K Howett 2003
SS on the lowest holds under the roof. Out to a incut on the lip then pull over. Resist using the big spike on the right.
10. Un-named V0- (4c) J Smith 2003
Up the right edge of the prow starting off the big spike.
Photo: with thanks to Kev Howett
The Armadillo
Horizontally across the hillside from The Marie Celeste are more big boulders. One, is characterised by a leaning south wall and a barrel shaped slab on the north. This offers blank smearing at the limit of adhesion.
The Very Small and the Very nearly Impossible Project K Howett
The left side of the slab. Standing start and climb the centre of the slab on the tiniest of edges.
Project
Start just to the right as the barrel turns. Direct up the slab.
Underbelly Tickle V5 (6b) K Howett 2003
The overhanging south wall sits above a deep hole. Climb the arete above the hole, coming in from the left hand side.
Jo George feeling pooped on 'Pooped'.
Photo: with thanks to Tom Lee
Elly Moriarty Obituary
Monday, January 09, 2006
photo: Copyright and thanks to Robin Campbell
Elly Moriarty was one of Scotland’s most colourful climbing personalities - he was even something of a legend, and a member of infamous group of enthusiastic and talented climbers known as the Currie Lads.
Currie is a village on the outskirts of Edinburgh where Elly and his inseparable climbing friend, Dougal Haston, both lived. Through a local youth club they were introduced to the great outdoors, and shortly after they started climbing on a proliferation of railway embankment walls close to their homes. Initially ‘The Wa’s’ provided a vital stepping stone, enabling them to cope with bigger and better things such as Agags Groove in Glencoe. But it wasn’t long before far more ferocious arm-wrecking traverses well completed and desperate straight-up problems all of which are exposed to a collection of urban objective dangers that doesn’t bare thinking about. Some time later, Haston documented these boulder problems (which were essentially put up by Elly and Dougal, and another member of the Currrie Lads, Jim Stenhouse), all of whom according to Jimmy Marshall were the big three and couldn’t be bettered within the group. Haston’s work appeared in and early (1967) edition of the Creag Dubh and Eastern Outcrops guidebook, which provided a fascinating insight into Elly and Dougal’s dedication to training. The fruits of their efforts are reflected in what was, a new generation of climber in the 50’s and 60’s, and the many superb first ascents they climbed on the big Scottish crags and their successes in the Alps, Dolomites and Greater Ranges.
Jimmy Marshall, who was a life long friend of Elly’s described him as a marvel. Jimmy recalls “we did Sibboleth and the True Finish together, it was just fantastic. It wasn’t a case of who was better, we were equal and we were having a great time. There were a few exciting moments though. And you have to remember that we didn’t have the gear in those days, just a nylon rope tied round the waist and two or three runners. Elly traversed out into the big crack on the last pitch. There was a great gasp as a hold snapped off. Elly keel hauled but somehow managed to stay on. Although he was very big he was incredibly agile and elegant, thus his nickname. That was the first complete ascent after Robin (Smith)”.
Apparently he didn’t do so much in winter - he often had other things on his mind like drinking and partying. He was a great fighter and many of his contemporaries are of the opinion that he should have participated professionally but there’s a dark side to the man too, which together with his impressive physical stature and immense strength earned him a reputation as a force to reckon with. He was in many respects a guardian angle, or if you like, a bodyguard who would always be there to protect Dougal and the boys. Marshall recalls another incidence where Elly fell off and broke his wrist after attempting to traverse the lintel of his girlfriend’s Georgian flat in Edinburgh. “We left for the Dolomites after that with Elly still in plaster we did some great routes. But he was advised to get a check up while we were away so when the Italian doctor asked Elly to try and grip his hand, Elly replied are you sure you want me to do this? A great yelp echoed throughout the hospital as the doctor lay mortified on the floor!
Elly may not have done as much in winter but that didn’t mean to say he was any less capable, and with Haston they made the second winter traverse of the much sought after Cullin Ridge on Skye.
He was an engineer to trade but both Dougal and Elly were forever trying their hand at other things and for a while they operated a business in London called Odd Job Enterprises – the mind boggles! Financing the idea was Bev Clarke who was a popular figure on the climbing scene at that time. He had inherited a considerable sum of money (I think from his grandfather who had invented carbon paper), but it didn’t last long for climbing as always took pride of place.
The path taken by many climbers in the 50’s and 60’s never ceases to amaze me. Just as a committed climber today might follow a career in outdoor Education or guiding, Elly and Dougal started yet another business (based in Edinburgh) called The Scottish School of Mountaineering. That was in 1964. It all ended in a tragedy associated with Haston knocking down a pedestrian in Glencoe. Elly resumed his engineering work but never really climbed to the same level of commitment again.
Having been cured of Leukaemia, he died in Edinburgh of a chest infection on the 31st October 2005, aged 65.
Jim Elly Moirairty and his band of brothers were an inspiration. They paved the way for the next generation to follow in their footsteps. Elly may no longer be with us in a physical sense, but his legacy of climbs and climbing folklore lives on.
Cubby
Monday, January 10, 2005
To bolt or not to bolt and the so-called ‘feel factor’ - proposed guidelines by the MCofS.
Refer to the MCofS online feature "Talking Point" and their guideline policy at http://www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk/pitch-in/climbing.html
Personally speaking I’m very much an advocate of the unwritten rules book and when someone starts telling me what to do in my own climbing, it does little more than evoke the non conformist, if not, the anarchy in me. Written rules - particularly those that err on the dictatorial - stand for everything that I have strived against, both in my climbing and in maintaining my own individuality.
A lot has been said about the ‘feel factor’ recently, but what exactly does it mean? The feel factor is a suggested term that determines whether or not a crag contains the various ingredients deemed acceptable to produce or not, or whatever the case may be, a sport climbing venue. In arriving at a decision, considerable experience and expertise in traditional, sport, and climbing in other parts of the world is essential. It might sound elitist but the decision making requires an understanding of an almost infinite variety of rock types that we have in Scotland (and to some degree the rock types that we don’t have – quality limestone for example). And just as importantly, the situation and landscape that these cliffs are located in.
Although there are cases of seasoned climbers supporting a view to place bolts in surprisingly traditional climbing areas, such as the Etive slabs and on Creag Dubh, it is the climber weaned on plastic who potentially poses the greatest threat in terms of determining the direction that our climbing will take in the future. This is largely down to inexperience and as a consequence, a lack of understanding of the differences in climbing ethics, attitudes towards the varying environment, and sadly, this occasionally extends to a lack of respect for those involved in other mountaineering disciplines. This is not said to be condescending in any way and in this last case it is more out of naivety than malice that the situation arises.
Is this whole debate then, not more about preservation of an ethic than anything else?
The reason why there has been growing concern regarding this subject in recent years is down to an increase in the number of climbers coming into climbing at a different angle (pun not intended). In short, climbers weaned on plastic are not serving an apprenticeship that would appear to be so crucial in understanding the ‘feel factor’.
“When I was a lad” my apprenticeship started by making a transition from hill walking to scrambling and then to my first steps rock climbing. A process that required a lot of eeking out of the necessary skills and equipment required, the purchase of guidebooks and learning how to use them. Reading instructional manuals and visits to the local climbing wall also played a major part in learning. But after that it was very much a hands-on approach and going out on the hill and gaining practical experience. We worked through the grades, touched different rock types in the mountains, sea cliffs, crags and quarries. We learned to respect the constantly changing weather that the Scottish mountains could throw at us. And while we realized good equipment was important, we respected that it was not the answer in avoiding being caught in an avalanche or dealing with indifferent ice climbing conditions. We learned to look after ourselves and each other. It never entered our minds to rely on others or a mountain rescue team. Traveling, and meeting other climbers, often more experienced than ourselves, and listening to their views, proved invaluable. In time, the unwritten rules in climbing would unfold.
The times they are a-changing. Indoor climbing walls by their very nature are encouraging the public to enter into a dangerous environment and therefore it is important that some written rules need to be applied for the safe running of that wall. Written guidelines to climbing in the outdoors is a more complex issue with a potentially disastrous impact on the freedom and spirit of adventure that attracted us to it in the first place. With this in mind, and given that the future of British climbing will very likely evolve out of indoor climbing walls, my own view is that if the MCofS insist on introducing guidelines, then they should come up with ones which subtly suggest, rather than dictate. Otherwise we could run the risk of creating a generation of brain-washed clones.
While I respect the work carried out by the MCofS, particularly in the area of land access and conservation issues etc., (and all of its associated red tape, bureaucracy and politics), I think applying a similar approach to climbing ethics might in the long run back fire and complicate matters more than is necessary. I can’t completely understand why the MCofS are so keen to pigeon hole climbing in all of its aspects and to attempt to take control of a situation which has been self regulating by the climbing fraternity, with surprising success, for such a long time anyway.
As the authoritive body in Scottish climbing, the MCofS have something of a dilemma on their hands.
I believe that there is a considerable onus on climbing wall owners to provide some kind of directive - (and I’m not just talking about preparing first time wall users to go out into the big wide world for the first time). Maybe if wall owners work in conjunction with the MCofS they could find a suitable answer, which in part goes a small way in substituting the aforementioned apprenticeship.
In the evolution of climbing the unwritten code of ethics are continuously being bent and broken. We might not like the immediate outcome but in time new styles and trends more often find their true place. In Scotland, history has shown that we are caring and conscientious, especially where our mountains and crags are concerned. That’s why I believe we have a fair balance between traditional climbing and a minority percentage dedicated to sport climbing. Take away that respect for our climbing heritage and the future could be altogether different. One thing is absolutely certain, we will never completely agree on these issues and as long as heated debates continue, the future of Scottish climbing will be alive and healthy.
There is a deep rooted, almost legendary tradition in placing bolts on Czech and East German sandstone, which is nearly always done on-sight and by hand. Conventional protection such as nuts, friends and pegs are not allowed in fear of damaging the rock. Instead, a rack of knotted cords and slings are used to provide the only other means of protection between the often spaced bolts.
Photo: Dave Cuthbertson
Photo: Dave Cuthbertson
There is an almost pretentious aversion to bolts in Scottish climbing. In the main I don’t agree with their use but I do believe there is a place for selected bolt protected sport-style venues.
With every respect for maintaining a sense of adventure, bolts have been used to great effect in Eastern Germany and the Czech Republic. The climbers that emerged from those countries rank with the best and boldest in the world. I’m not advocating minimalist bolting but it doesn’t have to be all doom and gloom where bolts are concerned.
Cubby
Refer to the MCofS online feature "Talking Point" and their guideline policy at http://www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk/pitch-in/climbing.html
Personally speaking I’m very much an advocate of the unwritten rules book and when someone starts telling me what to do in my own climbing, it does little more than evoke the non conformist, if not, the anarchy in me. Written rules - particularly those that err on the dictatorial - stand for everything that I have strived against, both in my climbing and in maintaining my own individuality.
A lot has been said about the ‘feel factor’ recently, but what exactly does it mean? The feel factor is a suggested term that determines whether or not a crag contains the various ingredients deemed acceptable to produce or not, or whatever the case may be, a sport climbing venue. In arriving at a decision, considerable experience and expertise in traditional, sport, and climbing in other parts of the world is essential. It might sound elitist but the decision making requires an understanding of an almost infinite variety of rock types that we have in Scotland (and to some degree the rock types that we don’t have – quality limestone for example). And just as importantly, the situation and landscape that these cliffs are located in.
Although there are cases of seasoned climbers supporting a view to place bolts in surprisingly traditional climbing areas, such as the Etive slabs and on Creag Dubh, it is the climber weaned on plastic who potentially poses the greatest threat in terms of determining the direction that our climbing will take in the future. This is largely down to inexperience and as a consequence, a lack of understanding of the differences in climbing ethics, attitudes towards the varying environment, and sadly, this occasionally extends to a lack of respect for those involved in other mountaineering disciplines. This is not said to be condescending in any way and in this last case it is more out of naivety than malice that the situation arises.
Is this whole debate then, not more about preservation of an ethic than anything else?
The reason why there has been growing concern regarding this subject in recent years is down to an increase in the number of climbers coming into climbing at a different angle (pun not intended). In short, climbers weaned on plastic are not serving an apprenticeship that would appear to be so crucial in understanding the ‘feel factor’.
“When I was a lad” my apprenticeship started by making a transition from hill walking to scrambling and then to my first steps rock climbing. A process that required a lot of eeking out of the necessary skills and equipment required, the purchase of guidebooks and learning how to use them. Reading instructional manuals and visits to the local climbing wall also played a major part in learning. But after that it was very much a hands-on approach and going out on the hill and gaining practical experience. We worked through the grades, touched different rock types in the mountains, sea cliffs, crags and quarries. We learned to respect the constantly changing weather that the Scottish mountains could throw at us. And while we realized good equipment was important, we respected that it was not the answer in avoiding being caught in an avalanche or dealing with indifferent ice climbing conditions. We learned to look after ourselves and each other. It never entered our minds to rely on others or a mountain rescue team. Traveling, and meeting other climbers, often more experienced than ourselves, and listening to their views, proved invaluable. In time, the unwritten rules in climbing would unfold.
The times they are a-changing. Indoor climbing walls by their very nature are encouraging the public to enter into a dangerous environment and therefore it is important that some written rules need to be applied for the safe running of that wall. Written guidelines to climbing in the outdoors is a more complex issue with a potentially disastrous impact on the freedom and spirit of adventure that attracted us to it in the first place. With this in mind, and given that the future of British climbing will very likely evolve out of indoor climbing walls, my own view is that if the MCofS insist on introducing guidelines, then they should come up with ones which subtly suggest, rather than dictate. Otherwise we could run the risk of creating a generation of brain-washed clones.
While I respect the work carried out by the MCofS, particularly in the area of land access and conservation issues etc., (and all of its associated red tape, bureaucracy and politics), I think applying a similar approach to climbing ethics might in the long run back fire and complicate matters more than is necessary. I can’t completely understand why the MCofS are so keen to pigeon hole climbing in all of its aspects and to attempt to take control of a situation which has been self regulating by the climbing fraternity, with surprising success, for such a long time anyway.
As the authoritive body in Scottish climbing, the MCofS have something of a dilemma on their hands.
I believe that there is a considerable onus on climbing wall owners to provide some kind of directive - (and I’m not just talking about preparing first time wall users to go out into the big wide world for the first time). Maybe if wall owners work in conjunction with the MCofS they could find a suitable answer, which in part goes a small way in substituting the aforementioned apprenticeship.
In the evolution of climbing the unwritten code of ethics are continuously being bent and broken. We might not like the immediate outcome but in time new styles and trends more often find their true place. In Scotland, history has shown that we are caring and conscientious, especially where our mountains and crags are concerned. That’s why I believe we have a fair balance between traditional climbing and a minority percentage dedicated to sport climbing. Take away that respect for our climbing heritage and the future could be altogether different. One thing is absolutely certain, we will never completely agree on these issues and as long as heated debates continue, the future of Scottish climbing will be alive and healthy.
There is a deep rooted, almost legendary tradition in placing bolts on Czech and East German sandstone, which is nearly always done on-sight and by hand. Conventional protection such as nuts, friends and pegs are not allowed in fear of damaging the rock. Instead, a rack of knotted cords and slings are used to provide the only other means of protection between the often spaced bolts.
Photo: Dave Cuthbertson
Photo: Dave Cuthbertson
There is an almost pretentious aversion to bolts in Scottish climbing. In the main I don’t agree with their use but I do believe there is a place for selected bolt protected sport-style venues.
With every respect for maintaining a sense of adventure, bolts have been used to great effect in Eastern Germany and the Czech Republic. The climbers that emerged from those countries rank with the best and boldest in the world. I’m not advocating minimalist bolting but it doesn’t have to be all doom and gloom where bolts are concerned.
Cubby
In Sympathy
Wednesday, December 08, 2004
End of another day new routeing on the Lewis sea cliffs.
Photo: Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images
Back in the early 70’s as two young school boys, Rab Anderson and I started climbing together and shared some amazing adventures. Rab’s enthusiasm has always been second to none, and in many respects one of his greatest strengths. Thirty years on, that enthusiasm has never waned. For those who don’t know him, Rab can sometimes come across as being a bit hard-nosed but beneath that tough exterior lies a fun-loving personality with a glint in his eye suggesting somebody who is always up for a bit of an adventure.
Hey Gringo – you wanna buy some bolts? New routeing, El Chorro, Spain.
Photo: Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images
Recently I was looking to take some pictures in the Cairngorms so I asked Rab if he would oblige. “No problem”, he said, “I’m out of a job anyway”.
If there is one item that Scottish climbing needs, it would have to be a national outdoor centre with a major indoor climbing wall; our climate alone justifies it! A centre run by staff who understand the needs of mountaineers and outdoor enthusiasts, a centre that sets new standards in tuition, a centre designed to serve the public and ultimately to inspire future generations.
Having narrowly escaped an airborne avalanche on an early attempt on the Duel, Glencoe.
Photo: Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images
After a long and winding road the Ratho Adventure Centre very nearly achieved all of this and so much more. Everyone will be aware of the political wrangling and financial hurdles that the project managers had to contend with. Sure, it was an ambitious project but there’s no point in waving the finger now, because that lifelong dream for Rab, Duncan McCallum and David Taylor has been made redundant. The bottom line is that the bank has employed a new company to run the centre as normal. Well as normal as can be expected in a building that is incomplete. This was really the crux of the whole matter, and it seems so cruel that Rab and his team were not given the chance to prove themselves in a completed building.
It should be borne in mind that Rab, Duncan and David have been climbing for over thirty years and between them is a wealth of experience. To ensure the highest levels of safety Mark Diggins was brought on board. Mark’s credentials are impressive – an International Guide, training officer to the BMG, and an authority on the subject of avalanche. Mark has worked extensively on TV and film and is well versed in the stringent safety requirements expected by the health and safety industry. You would be hard pushed to replace such an experienced team.
With Ratho’s future as a National Outdoor Centre now looking uncertain, it’s difficult not to feel frustrated with the whole affair. There was a time when the Scots enjoyed a reputation with a great sense of involvement in mountaineering history. From the exploits of Collie and his adventures on the Isle of Skye and the Greater Ranges to the amazing climbs put up by the great Edinburgh climber, Harold Raeburn. These early pioneers set standards for a rising new breed – the likes of Bill Murray, Tom Patey and Hamish McInnes, who in turn explored climbs of an even higher calibre. Inspired by these preceding generations, we saw in the 50’s, the emergence of a so called classless society with Dougal Haston, and geniuses Jimmy Marshall, Robin Smith and Jonny Cunningham at the forefront. Without their achievements, the climbers of today would not have any foundations to build upon.
Rab understands the importance in supporting our climbing heritage and for him
Ratho was all about putting something back into climbing. He has always been passionate about providing a service, and Ratho would become a meeting place where people could learn, be educated and inspired.
Bouldering at The Stane, Ruthven, Inverness-shire.
Photo: Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images
Regardless of the climb, it was a day out on the hill for Rab - in this case, a Classic Rock VS on Hells Lum. Always a ticker, this was an offer he couldn’t refuse and with his usual bounding enthusiasm, Rab turned up with a wardrobe that would put any theatre company to shame. As we walked over the Fiacaill however, I sensed that he was not his usual chatty self and his earlier remarks about being out of a job suddenly struck home. Was this really the end of Ratho? All those years of hard work gone to waste – robbed of a life associated with the outdoors. To have been so close, then, to have the carpet pulled from beneath his feet must have been devastating.
Climbing on Hells Lum, Cairngorms.
Photo: Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images
I cannot help thinking that if a Scottish Parliament truly exists; it should recognise that Ratho needs its support now and help put Scotland back on the map as a leading protagonist in world climbing.
I understand that business is not that simple and the more cynical out there might think that in light of more pressing matters perhaps, at home and abroad, that’s a romantic, naïve thing to say. It is, but here’s hoping.
Cubby.
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