I think I’m one of those slightly cynical climbers who tend to dismiss like the idea of learning through books or videos – surely climbing is about getting out there and learning for yourself and being creative, coming up with your own methods. I have tended to shun books such as How to Climb 5.12 and Rockfax’s SportClimbing (The positive approach to improving your climbing), without having even read them through. For me personally it’s the unknown in climbing which I enjoy. I like to learn through my own experiences (and mistakes) and that’s probably why it’s taken me so long to learn many of the basics. I quickly learnt how to move on rock but it took years to learn how to set up a belay properly and even now I only know three knots. I think that’s called stubbornness, perhaps even stupidity.

Maybe I’m trying to rebel against what I see as this modern day’s ‘nanny’ culture where everything is laid out on a plate, minimal effort. How many times have I heard the old folk say you can’t find good hard workers these days! Pre packaged food, automated phone systems, we don’t even like walking to the post box anymore, it’s all texts and e-mails (now I’m diverging and sounding old)! Maybe this attitude is behind the times or a tad ignorant or arrogant (why don’t I want to learn from those with the experience)…or maybe I just prefer to learn my own way. Perhaps it’s a tad hypocritical too as I’ve picked up books on how to make pebble mosaics or how to work with green wood, so what’s the difference with a book on how to climb?

Well Dave MacLeod e-mailed (I’d call him lazy for not walking to that post box if he hadn’t climbed E11! ; ) to see if I wanted to review his new 42-page e-book, How to Climb Hard Trad. This book was written as a companion to the new Committed film (see review at www……..). My first thought was oh no, surely you learn how to climb ‘hard trad’ through experience and dedication, not through a book telling you how to do it! But that is not necessarily Dave’s aim. In his own words, Dave felt that "the film was a great showcase of what is going on right now at the living end of world trad climbing. Inspiring stuff – but I know from experience as a coach that some climbers will watch the action thinking "I could never do that". I hope from reading these chapters you will see that the ascents in the film are not really as impossible as they seem, merely the end result of a process of actions that anyone can follow. You can if you want to".

So I started reading and truth be told, from the first page my interest was captured.

Dave has several great credentials for writing such a mini book; he is one of the best traditional climbers in the world; he has a degree in sports psychology; his motivation is legendary and he is an excellent writer. Although the e-book is called how to climb ‘hard’ trad, it is actually aimed at climbers of all abilities, as what is hard for one climber may not be for another. In fact Dave writes, "beginners have far more to gain from adoption of good tactics because performance is so sensitive to even the smallest improvements in practice at this stage". His belief is that by applying the techniques and mindsets along with a large amount of dedication and a desire to want to get better, a climber of any ability could climb hard trad. The "desire" to want to is key and Dave writes "ultimately, pure desire to get better and experience the good feelings this brings will end up as your limiting factor".

The book is in three parts entitled 1) How to on-sight hard trad, 2) Head-pointing – why bother? And 3) Head-pointing – the guide. In part one Dave explains what on-sight climbing is and what you can do to help "tip the scales in your favour". This includes gathering information about the climb before your attempt (but not too much because it is on-sight!), dealing with danger, motivation and boldness and getting committed. He offers much useful advice on tactics, techniques, thought processes and practical methods for the climber to consider, including how to get over the fear of falling (which in many cases is what limits us).

In part one I found it very interesting to read psychologists theories on motivation and I think whether these theories are applied to climbing or all aspects of life (or both), it’s worth reading.
In part two Dave explains what a climber can gain from in experience, learning and enjoyment by head-pointing climbs, and not only at the highest levels. And in part three he talks us through choosing the right climb to get you inspired, how to head-point without a belayer (very useful), strategies of rehearsing the climb, mental preparation and making it as safe as possible. Again I enjoyed reading his psychological strategies for the final head-point attempt, " the silent mind" versus the "aggressive psyche up", versus " the white noise psyche" (you’ll have to read it yourself to find out what the latter one is!).

All in all this e-book gives a great an insight into what steps you can take to improve your grade, your technique, and get pleasure out trying hard, whether you want to apply this to the hardest, boldest routes or not. I would say it’s definitely worth a read and you’ll learn something new at whatever level you’re at. An inspiring and educational read and by the end of the book I was really quite motivated and inspired to have a go at head-pointing myself.

By looking at what Dave himself has achieved, we can opt to follow his hard won advice and learn for our own improvement. So can reading this book lead to great grades? ... yes, if you want it enough!

Now maybe I’ll read SportClimbing+ !

END

The How to Climb Hard Trad e-book is free when you order the new Committed DVD. This 42 page A4 printable PDF e-book will be emailed to you once your order is confirmed - it won’t be available anywhere else. To order your copy of the film visit http://www.davemacleod.com/