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COMMITTED - film review by Jo George
Thursday, November 08, 2007
After the huge success of the film E11, following the story of Dave MacLeod’s trials and tribulations during his attempts and final ascent of the word’s first E11, Rhapsody, the film makers, Hot Aches, had a hard act to follow.
Like Hard Grit, Rhapsody (and E11) propelled the UK’s hard trad climbing scene into the limelight and caught the attention of the climbing media worldwide. The Hot Aches team have now produced a second film about hard trad climbing with Committed – the title says it all!
Committed is the end result of a busy year’s filming of cutting edge traditional climbing from across the UK. It features some of the Britain’s top trad climbers, plus a handful from overseas, climbing some of the most difficult and dangerous climbs on the mountains and crags in Ireland, England’s Peak District, Wales and Scotland. Although I don’t feel this film has the strength of the story that E11 had (and I perhaps shouldn’t be comparing them), Committed still manages to get into the headspace of some of these top trad climbers which makes for interesting viewing, and watching their styles, techniques, method and motivation needed to achieve these hard first ascents, bold solos and audacious repeats, is certainly inspiring.
Dave MacLeod on the 3rd ascent of Trauma (E9) - an interesting comparison watching both James Pearson making the second and Dave making the 3rd.
Photo: copyright Hot Aches
The film covers a few of the hard trad routes of the 80’s and 90’s and it was good to see some of ‘the old school’ in the film, Dunne, Dawes and Dixon, all giving their thoughts on the climbs of today and proving they’re not past it yet either! Dave MacLeod turns his attention to Dawe’s 80’s test piece, Indian Face and after much deliberation, has to make a decision as to whether the risk involved in climbing such a route is worth it. The danger aspect of head-pointing at this level is apparent throughout the film and shows climbers pushing themselves to their limit, two ground falls, and Katherine Schirrmacher trying to make sense of why some climbers are good at this style of climbing and why more people aren’t hurting themselves.
The film covers a few of the hard trad routes of the 80’s and 90’s and it was good to see some of ‘the old school’ in the film, Dunne, Dawes and Dixon, all giving their thoughts on the climbs of today and proving they’re not past it yet either! Dave MacLeod turns his attention to Dawe’s 80’s test piece, Indian Face and after much deliberation, has to make a decision as to whether the risk involved in climbing such a route is worth it. The danger aspect of head-pointing at this level is apparent throughout the film and shows climbers pushing themselves to their limit, two ground falls, and Katherine Schirrmacher trying to make sense of why some climbers are good at this style of climbing and why more people aren’t hurting themselves.
Katherine Schirrmacher, the first British woman to climb E8
Photo: copyright Hot Aches
We follow an interesting mix of personalities in their quest for that hard trad tick, including cool American, Sonnie Trotter, attempting Rhapsody; Adam Long demonstrating his immaculate grit stone technique with E6 and E8 solos and Aussie climber Ben Cossey chatting casually as he solos up a grit E8. Women are represented, both in a supportive role to their partners and at the cutting edge. Germany’s Jude Spanken on-sights Wales’ classic Lord of the Flies (a bold and serious E6) in beautiful style, while Katherine talks herself successfully up a delicate E7 arete in the Peak. Throughout the film we follow in more depth, the climbs being done by two of the leading trad climbers of today, James Pearson and Dave MacLeod. James is an exceptionally modest and talented young climber who achievements include climbing E10 at age 19 (with Equilibrium) and flashing V13 twice. Dave of course has climbed E11 and is renowned as one of the world’s best all-rounders. Watching them trying the hardest lines, often in less than ideal conditions (and in the dark!), is intriguing.
Adam Long on-off Angels Share (E8)
Photo: copyright Hot Aches
However, this film isn’t all about the hardest lines being climbed, it’s as much about being “committed” and Kev Shields shows a shining example of that. Kev has much of his left hand missing and as such finds it difficult to place gear and use certain holds. Despite this handicap, he puts his life on the line for his enjoyment of the sport. We also follow other Scots to the remote island of Pabbay and show commitment in another sense with frightening new routing on these spectacular sea cliffs.
The locations in the film are varied and really show the diversity and climbing styles that make the British trad scene so unique and respected around the world. The footage of the beautiful island of Pabbay made me proud to be Scottish, while America’s Trotter’s remarks that Dumbarton Rock is a beautiful place left me smiling! Those who have been to Dumbarton Rock will know why.
Unlike many climbing films, the pace of Committed is slow to steady, not hyped up. The people and climbs make it, not loud motivating music. The filming is unpretentious with some sensitive footage, the climbers are modest and the storyline, which examines the diversity of climbing style and locations, that together make the British trad scene unique and respected around the world, is an interesting one. The Extras however were a little disappointing with the exception of Keen Youth. All in all, a very good film, definitely worth purchasing, and one which you will watch over and over again. (I’ve watched it four times total so far!).
And finally I’d have to say the Hot Aches team must have been as Committed as the climbers in this film – a lot of climbs to film in one year given the diverse locations and the good old British weather. Nice one boys!
Committed is on sale now from http://www.hotaches.com/ at £19.99
Unlike many climbing films, the pace of Committed is slow to steady, not hyped up. The people and climbs make it, not loud motivating music. The filming is unpretentious with some sensitive footage, the climbers are modest and the storyline, which examines the diversity of climbing style and locations, that together make the British trad scene unique and respected around the world, is an interesting one. The Extras however were a little disappointing with the exception of Keen Youth. All in all, a very good film, definitely worth purchasing, and one which you will watch over and over again. (I’ve watched it four times total so far!).
And finally I’d have to say the Hot Aches team must have been as Committed as the climbers in this film – a lot of climbs to film in one year given the diverse locations and the good old British weather. Nice one boys!
Committed is on sale now from http://www.hotaches.com/ at £19.99
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