Tom Lee enjoying a fine summer's day in the Coe with splendid views of the Aonach Eagach as a backdrop. Photo: Cubby Images

As one of the main authors of an upcoming Scottish bouldering guide, I remember a year or so ago speaking to Kev Howett about some boulders I’d visited in Glencoe. He looked furtively at me and appeared not to know about ‘Elliots Boulders’. I’d nicknamed the boulders that as they lay scattered next to the old shepherd, Willie Elliot’s croft at Achnambeithach - that infamous, white picture-postcard croft dwarfed beneath Coire nam Beith (.... or opposite the turn-off to the Clachaig Inn).

The first time I’d visited these boulders was back in 2003 after an impromptu party at mine. A few lads from Edinburgh were climbing in the Coe and what started out as a quiet beer, ended in cocktail mayhem. Trevor Wood was the cocktail meister, apparently he’d served an apprenticeship in Hong Kong, and that night shook up some stunning numbers! The ‘morning after’ we drove into the Coe with a vague hope of climbing. Ali (Coull) headed up to E Buttress on Aonach Dubh to clear his head with a solo of Big Top (just the route for a hangover cure!), Trevor never made it out of the back of the car, while ‘Big Tom’ and myself went in search of some bouldering.

Across Loch Achtriochtan we found a smattering of boulders, a couple fairly large. Tom climbed a nice (but dirty) arete on one of the lower boulders and then we both played on a traverse on the largest boulder. Every movement made me feel sicker and eventually I decided to head home. I was glad to hear later that Ali, part way up Big Top, had suddenly decided that soloing was perhaps not such a good idea in his state and made a retreat.

A few weeks later I headed back on my own and saw, lying next to the main boulder, soaking up the sun’s rays, a beautiful fox. These animals with their long elegant noses and rich rust colouring have always intrigued me, however as soon as I saw it, it spotted me and darted off. I nicknamed this boulder ‘Foxy Boulder’. Foxy was a great place to chill out, do a few problems, lie in the grass and take in the stunning views of the Aonach Eagach Ridge. With such limited bouldering in the area, in 2005, I returned again with another friend (another Tom) with the aim of cleaning up a few boulders. We slung ropes over Foxy and cleaned her head to Toe.

Our first problem was perhaps the best, a traverse of about Font 6c (sorry I’m old fashioned and only know Font grades). We named it ‘Pub Crawl Traverse’, partly after my first drunken visit, and partly because of Cubby’s suggestion that it’d be a great problem to come and do before a night out at the Clachaig. The traverse was surprisingly good – a combo of slopers, crimps, pockets and stamina - certainly worth a visit. The side wall and front face also provided some good little problems.

Tom part way along the traverse.
Photo: Cubby Images

So, after chatting a little more to Kev, it transpired he did know of the boulders and my Foxy Boulder was already claimed as The Marie Celeste and our Pubcrawl Traverse was his Keel Hauled for Fun (although his traverse stops short of ours, it’s worth making the extra moves further left into the crack). Kev had visited three boulders and details of his problems are posted below. We've since added a few more lines but I'm sure you'll discover these yourself. There are also a couple of other boulders here that would give some good sport so if you’re heading over there, bring a mat and brush!

The text below was supplied courtesy of Kevin Howett and the photo topos have been adapted by topos sent in by Kev ©Rockart.



The Tender Boulder is hidden behined Marie Celeste in this photo.
Photo: with thanks to Kevin Howett

Loch Achtriochtan Boulders (142564) by Kev Howett

Sitting on the south west shore of the loch, are a collection of small boulders worthy of a visit. Park at the bridge leading across the River Coe to Achnambeithach. Walk round the edge of the loch to the boulders in 10mins. There are about 10 boulders on the hillside above the loch, split into two sections by a small stream. They receive the sun most of the day in summer but also get the evening rays. The most conspicuous boulder is The Marie Celeste which can be seen from the road as a large flat face. Further left across the small stream and scattered near the bottom edge of a scree slope, are further boulders and one very square-cut boulder sits on flat ground next to the loch itself.

The Marie Celeste
Shaped a bit like a boat, with a flat north face, an easy slabby south face (the descent) and the west end undercut leading to a ‘Poop Deck’ shaped back end, whilst the east end is a severely undercut prow. Problems are described right to left from the west end.

1 .Pooped V2 (6a) K Howett 2003
SS on an obvious big flat hold. Gain good holds in the lip directly above and pull onto the wall using a tiny edge.

2. Into the Fug V1 (5b) K Howett 2003
SS just to the left of the last route on a projecting ledge with a good incut hold on it. Using the sloping holds on the left side of the wall, pull over onto the upper wall using some small pockets.

3. Broadside V2 (5c) K Howett 2003
The right side of the north face. SS under the overhanging edge of the wall. Pull left onto the wall and climb direct up the bulge at the top.

4. Lanyard Tales V0 (5a) K Howett 2003
Climbs the most obvious ‘line’ up the centre of the north face. Climb through the line of the leaning scoop.

5. A Black Pearler V6 (6c) K Howett 2003
Under the front prow is only one small hold. SS using this and an undercling to the left. Span out right to small pockets in the lip and pull over using further better pockets above.

6. Captain Cock Sparrow V3 (6b) K Howett 2003
From the same holds as above, SS and gain the hold on the very lip of the prow. A Cheval to the top.

7. Keel Hauled for Fun V4 (6a/b) K Howett 2003
The Traverse. From Pooped, at low level to finish along the pockets in the lip of the roof of Black Pearler and up the prow of Captain Jack Sparrow.



Photo: with thanks to Kev Howett



Marie Celeste boulder on the left and The Tender Boulder to its right.
Photo: with thanks to Kev Howett

The left side of the Marie Celeste Boulder showing the end of the traverse (no.7)

Photo: with thanks to Kev Howett

The Tender Boulder
The big flat boulder lying beside The Marie Celeste and down which is the descent. It’s west end is a jutting prow.

8. Lanyarding V3 (6a) K Howett 2005
The traverse of the overhanging faces. Start bridged between the two boulders. Follow rounded holds over the lip and a obvious spike just under it, into the niche below Focus’all. Pass the big spike on the right and continue along a line on the lip to gain the slab near the right end.

9. Focus’all V1 (5b) K Howett 2003
SS on the lowest holds under the roof. Out to a incut on the lip then pull over. Resist using the big spike on the right.

10. Un-named V0- (4c) J Smith 2003
Up the right edge of the prow starting off the big spike.

Photo: with thanks to Kev Howett

The Armadillo
Horizontally across the hillside from The Marie Celeste are more big boulders. One, is characterised by a leaning south wall and a barrel shaped slab on the north. This offers blank smearing at the limit of adhesion.

The Very Small and the Very nearly Impossible Project K Howett
The left side of the slab. Standing start and climb the centre of the slab on the tiniest of edges.

Project
Start just to the right as the barrel turns. Direct up the slab.

Underbelly Tickle V5 (6b) K Howett 2003
The overhanging south wall sits above a deep hole. Climb the arete above the hole, coming in from the left hand side.




Jo George feeling pooped on 'Pooped'.
Photo: with thanks to Tom Lee