To bolt or not to bolt and the so-called ‘feel factor’ - proposed guidelines by the MCofS.

Refer to the MCofS online feature "Talking Point" and their guideline policy at http://www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk/pitch-in/climbing.html

Personally speaking I’m very much an advocate of the unwritten rules book and when someone starts telling me what to do in my own climbing, it does little more than evoke the non conformist, if not, the anarchy in me. Written rules - particularly those that err on the dictatorial - stand for everything that I have strived against, both in my climbing and in maintaining my own individuality.

A lot has been said about the ‘feel factor’ recently, but what exactly does it mean? The feel factor is a suggested term that determines whether or not a crag contains the various ingredients deemed acceptable to produce or not, or whatever the case may be, a sport climbing venue. In arriving at a decision, considerable experience and expertise in traditional, sport, and climbing in other parts of the world is essential. It might sound elitist but the decision making requires an understanding of an almost infinite variety of rock types that we have in Scotland (and to some degree the rock types that we don’t have – quality limestone for example). And just as importantly, the situation and landscape that these cliffs are located in.

Although there are cases of seasoned climbers supporting a view to place bolts in surprisingly traditional climbing areas, such as the Etive slabs and on Creag Dubh, it is the climber weaned on plastic who potentially poses the greatest threat in terms of determining the direction that our climbing will take in the future. This is largely down to inexperience and as a consequence, a lack of understanding of the differences in climbing ethics, attitudes towards the varying environment, and sadly, this occasionally extends to a lack of respect for those involved in other mountaineering disciplines. This is not said to be condescending in any way and in this last case it is more out of naivety than malice that the situation arises.

Is this whole debate then, not more about preservation of an ethic than anything else?

The reason why there has been growing concern regarding this subject in recent years is down to an increase in the number of climbers coming into climbing at a different angle (pun not intended). In short, climbers weaned on plastic are not serving an apprenticeship that would appear to be so crucial in understanding the ‘feel factor’.

“When I was a lad” my apprenticeship started by making a transition from hill walking to scrambling and then to my first steps rock climbing. A process that required a lot of eeking out of the necessary skills and equipment required, the purchase of guidebooks and learning how to use them. Reading instructional manuals and visits to the local climbing wall also played a major part in learning. But after that it was very much a hands-on approach and going out on the hill and gaining practical experience. We worked through the grades, touched different rock types in the mountains, sea cliffs, crags and quarries. We learned to respect the constantly changing weather that the Scottish mountains could throw at us. And while we realized good equipment was important, we respected that it was not the answer in avoiding being caught in an avalanche or dealing with indifferent ice climbing conditions. We learned to look after ourselves and each other. It never entered our minds to rely on others or a mountain rescue team. Traveling, and meeting other climbers, often more experienced than ourselves, and listening to their views, proved invaluable. In time, the unwritten rules in climbing would unfold.

The times they are a-changing. Indoor climbing walls by their very nature are encouraging the public to enter into a dangerous environment and therefore it is important that some written rules need to be applied for the safe running of that wall. Written guidelines to climbing in the outdoors is a more complex issue with a potentially disastrous impact on the freedom and spirit of adventure that attracted us to it in the first place. With this in mind, and given that the future of British climbing will very likely evolve out of indoor climbing walls, my own view is that if the MCofS insist on introducing guidelines, then they should come up with ones which subtly suggest, rather than dictate. Otherwise we could run the risk of creating a generation of brain-washed clones.

While I respect the work carried out by the MCofS, particularly in the area of land access and conservation issues etc., (and all of its associated red tape, bureaucracy and politics), I think applying a similar approach to climbing ethics might in the long run back fire and complicate matters more than is necessary. I can’t completely understand why the MCofS are so keen to pigeon hole climbing in all of its aspects and to attempt to take control of a situation which has been self regulating by the climbing fraternity, with surprising success, for such a long time anyway.

As the authoritive body in Scottish climbing, the MCofS have something of a dilemma on their hands.

I believe that there is a considerable onus on climbing wall owners to provide some kind of directive - (and I’m not just talking about preparing first time wall users to go out into the big wide world for the first time). Maybe if wall owners work in conjunction with the MCofS they could find a suitable answer, which in part goes a small way in substituting the aforementioned apprenticeship.

In the evolution of climbing the unwritten code of ethics are continuously being bent and broken. We might not like the immediate outcome but in time new styles and trends more often find their true place. In Scotland, history has shown that we are caring and conscientious, especially where our mountains and crags are concerned. That’s why I believe we have a fair balance between traditional climbing and a minority percentage dedicated to sport climbing. Take away that respect for our climbing heritage and the future could be altogether different. One thing is absolutely certain, we will never completely agree on these issues and as long as heated debates continue, the future of Scottish climbing will be alive and healthy.


There is a deep rooted, almost legendary tradition in placing bolts on Czech and East German sandstone, which is nearly always done on-sight and by hand. Conventional protection such as nuts, friends and pegs are not allowed in fear of damaging the rock. Instead, a rack of knotted cords and slings are used to provide the only other means of protection between the often spaced bolts.
Photo: Dave Cuthbertson


Photo: Dave Cuthbertson

There is an almost pretentious aversion to bolts in Scottish climbing. In the main I don’t agree with their use but I do believe there is a place for selected bolt protected sport-style venues.

With every respect for maintaining a sense of adventure, bolts have been used to great effect in Eastern Germany and the Czech Republic. The climbers that emerged from those countries rank with the best and boldest in the world. I’m not advocating minimalist bolting but it doesn’t have to be all doom and gloom where bolts are concerned.

Cubby